August 29, 2016

Welcome to day one of the Ogden Cami Sewalong. The Ogden Cami is a very fast sew and so we are going to be doing the sewalong in just two days. We will not be going over assembling the pattern or cutting the fabric as I’ve done this many times before with other patterns. If you need a refresher you can check out this link. Here are a few photos of the pattern assembled and fabric cut out to give you an idea. As far as fabric goes, I am using this silk crepe de chine that I designed through My Fabric Designs and used some ivory colored silk crepe for the lining to keep the two easy to differentiate in the photos.

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it simple, I like to  just do a simple clip into the notches and use a disappearing fabric ink pen for the dots.

It’s also a good idea to clearly mark the back pieces at this time. I like to put a piece of masking tape on the back cami and back lining pieces for easy identification.

Next, staystitch the neckline and armholes of both the cami and lining pieces at 3/8” seam allowance in the directions shown in the instructions. A lot of people will skip this step. Yes, it’s not necessary, but it really does help you to not stretch out your fabric pieces and assure a good fit.

Step 2 – Prepare your straps by folding each in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim to 1/8” seam allowance.

Using your loop turner or a safety pin, turn your straps right side out.

Press flat. You can choose which flat side becomes the right side or wrong side at this time, but since it’s a loop it really doesn’t matter.

Step 3 – Pin one end of each strap to the right side of the front cami at dots. The raw edge of the strap should be flush with the top of the point.

Baste at 3/8” seam allowance.

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin the sides of your front and back cami together, matching notches. Stitch at your normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner and press seams open. I chose to do french seams on the main cami and a simple serge on the lining. Repeat this step for lining pieces as well. Depending on how you finish the seams, either press seams open or towards the back. (Tip –  to reduce bulk, press your cami seam allowance one way and your lining seam allowance the other.)

Step 5 – Take your lining and turn the bottom edge up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press. Fold up another 1/4”. Pin and press.

Edgestitch along the fold to finish the hem of the lining.

Step 6 – With the cami right side out and the lining inside out, place the cami inside of the lining. Match up the armholes and neckline. Pin. Make sure that the straps stay straight down and out of the way. (Tip – You may want to temporarily pin your straps to the lining to make sure that they stay clear of your stitching.)

Step 7 – Stitch around the neckline, armholes, and front dots. When you get to the V at center front and center back, leave your needle in the fabric and pivot for a nice point. Do not stitch 1/2” in either direction of the back dots to allow room for the strap to be inserted and attached later. (Tip – When stitching around the V points and also across the straps, it’s a good idea to reduce your stitch length to give that area extra strength.)


That’s it for today. We will do the second half tomorrow. Let me know if you have any questions. And if you want to purchase the pattern you can do so here.

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  • Reply Erin November 7, 2017 at 8:47 AM

    I have tried a few different Ogdens, but haven’t had great success when I’ve used my measurements. Do you have recommendations for a tutorial on an FBA for the pattern?

    • Reply Pam January 16, 2020 at 9:54 PM

      Research YouTube Louise Cutting. Video on making a FBA without a dart

  • Reply Anna February 12, 2019 at 3:51 PM

    Hi there! I’ve just purchased the Ogden Cami PDF and can’t wait to try it out for the first time.

    I did want to ask – would you consider creating your PDF documents so that the different size layers can be selected for ease of cutting out at home?

    Thanks so much! I’ve already got a few beautiful fabrics to make this lovely pattern up in 🙂

  • Reply Alison March 6, 2019 at 1:47 PM

    I love that we get to…………..thats enough for today!

    I am so obsessive, I would continue and then mess it up. So this is GREAT to be told to take it easy!

  • Reply Alicia May 29, 2019 at 11:13 PM

    Do you know of a good tutorial for an sba to the Ogden pattern? My post nursing ladies no longer fit into the C-cup range and I’m not striking much luck finding much sba related content for this pattern

  • Reply Karen Mulhall September 7, 2019 at 1:37 AM

    Hi Kelli, at step 7 on the pattern it says to stitch around the neckline and armholes areas. Is that at 3/8″ the same as the stay stitching? From your last picture they don’t seem to coincide. Thanks, Karen

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  • Reply Manon April 5, 2020 at 1:33 PM

    Hi everyone. I am a beginner sewist so my question might be silly but… I am pretty tall so I’d like to lenghten the cami. There is a “lenghten/shorten here” line on the pattern, but I don’t know how to “use” this. Is there anywhere an explanation on this?
    Many thanks!

    • Reply Jenny May 10, 2020 at 4:36 AM

      Hi Manon, not a silly question! You may well have found the answer by now, but to lengthen I would cut the pattern piece across the lengthen here line and move it down the fabric and pin the bottom half of the piece where you want the cami to end. I would then draw a line with chalk between the pieces so it’s easier to see when cutting out. The lengthen/shorten here line is basically a place on the pattern where changing the length will not effect the essential shaping and fit of the piece. Xx

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  • Reply G April 21, 2021 at 3:17 PM

    I bought the paper pattern for this and am very confused about the ‘right’ side and ‘wrong side’ of fabric. On the front cover the white colour depicts the ‘right’ side and the grey colour depicts the ‘ ‘wrong’ side. Then when it comes to the instructions the reverse is shown (white being ‘wrong’ side and grey being ‘right’ side) Which is true? When showing how to fold the fabric for layout is it right or wrong sides together? Are all pattern pieces to be facing up? Piece 2 is shown placed 2 different ways that wouldn’t make sense unless it was placed face down in one of the layouts.

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