SEWING TUTORIALS

RORY ELASTIC WAIST HACK

May 14, 2021

Today I am going to share a simple hack for the Rory Jumpsuit so you can omit the D-rings but still have some waist definition by adding a bit of elastic to the back and sides. This will work with any of the jumpsuit views, but I chose to use the shorts version with the extended sleeves.

To begin, cut out and assemble your pattern according to the instructions. Instead of sewing up the shoulder seams, sew up the side seams so that when you lay it flat, the back is in the middle and the fronts are extended on the two sides.

Take a strip of fabric that is the height of your elastic (mine is 2 inchs) plus 1 inch for seam allowances and 1/4″ for ease. So mine is 3 1/4″ tall. This will be the height of your elastic casing. The width will measure from the first front princess seam on the left, to the one on the right, plus one inch for fold under.

Press the two long edges in by 1/2″.

Press in short ends by 1/2″.

Place the strip on the inside of your jumpsuit so that it centers over the D ring markings.

Pin along long ends.

Edgestich along long ends.

Sew up the rest of the jumpsuit. I decided to wait on the buttons until the end but you can add those now if you want.

Cut a piece of elastic that is a few inches shorter than your waist- you will trim it more later.

Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it thru the casing, leaving ends extended.

Check the fit of the elastic. Dont make it too tight or it will pull on the buttons.

Once it’s right, trim and tuck the ends so that they tuck inside the short folded ends of the casing. Pin.

On the right side of your jumpsuit, stitch in the ditch of the princess seam at the section where it covers the waistband casing. Make sure it secures the elastic and closes up casing. It will look like this:

And that is it! A super easy and fun hack for the Rory Jumpsuit.

SEWALONG

Mave Sewalong Day 4 – Hemming & Finishing Touches

April 29, 2021

It’s the last day of the Mave Sewalong. It will be a short day and by the end we will have a finished skirt. Let’s get sewing.

Attach a safety pin securely to one end of the drawstring. Insert through one buttonhole and feed through the channel, pulling the safety pin out through the other buttonhole. Pull drawstring until ends are even.

Try on your skirt and check the length of your drawstrings. Trim if necessary.

There are a few ways to finish the ends of the drawstring.

You can finish it with aglets.

Or you can thread some beads on the drawstring and tie an end at the bottom. You can let the ends fray natrually over time. I thin that macrame beads are a great option for this because they generally have a larger hole.

Or just fold the drawstring ends and stitch them. To do this fold by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and press.

It can be hard to sew these small sections of fabric and I have found that by putting a piece of paper under your drawstrings when sewing, it really helps.

Try on your skirt to check length. Trim if necessary. Finish the hem of your main skirt by pressing the raw edge towards the wrong side at 1/4.” Turn it up again by 1/4.” Pin and press. Edgestitch along this folded line to secure.

If using a lining, the lining should be about 1/4″ shorter than the main skirt so it is not seen. Trim lining if necessary and hem in the same manner as the main skirt. Note: the main and lining hems should be facing one another.

You’re finished! I hope the Mave sewalong was helpful. Give the whole skirt a nice press and it’s ready to wear.

SEWALONG

Mave Sewalong Day 3 – Waistband

April 28, 2021

Welcome back for day 3 of the Mave Sewalong. Today we are going to sew up waistband of the skirt.

With right sides touching, pin Drawstring pieces together at one short end. Stitch. Trim seam allowances and press open.

Stitch. Trim seam allowances and press open.

Fold the Drawstring in half lengthwise, wrong sides touching. Press.

Open back up and take the two long raw edges and fold them back into the crease you just made. Press.

Fold along the middle crease again. (Note: You can also use a bias tape maker to press the drawstring.) Edgestitch along the long folded edge. Set drawstring aside for now.

Apply a small scrap of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband, centering behind buttonhole markings.

Turn right side up. Stitch and open buttonholes.

With right sides touching, pin Waistband together at center back seam.

Stitch center back seam. Trim seam allowances and press open.

With wrong sides touching, fold Waistband in half lengthwise, matching seams and notches. Press.

Pin waistband to the right side of the skirt with the side of the waistband with buttonholes facing the right front side of the skirt. Match center notches and side notches with side seams.

Stitch the waistband seam, leaving a 4″ opening at center back, as pictured below.

Cut length of elastic according to the Elastic Cut Chart included on page two of the Mave pattern instructions.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, and stitch to secure. Note: It’s a good idea to try on your skirt to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

Pin and sew the opening in waistband seam closed, stretching slightly so the waistband and skirt lay flat as you sew.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manning and press down towards skirt.

Evenly distribute gathers around waistband. Press and pin to help keep it all in place.

With an elongated stretch stitch (approximately 0.5mm wide and 3mm long zigzag stitch), start at center back and stitch through all layers along each stitch line, stretching the waistband flat as you go. Backstitch at both ends.

Now we’re ready for hemming and finishing touches. We will finish those up tomorrow. See you then.

SEWALONG

MAVE SEWALONG DAY 2 – RUFFLES

April 27, 2021

Welcome back for the Day 2 of the Mave Skirt Sewalong. The following steps are for ruffled options only. For any ruffled options, begin here. If you’re omitting the ruffles, you may skip to the optional lining instructions towards the end of this post or to the Day 3 – Waistband post.

With right sides touching, pin Ruffle 1 (pattern piece 3) pieces together at sides.

Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances using your preferred method. Press seam allowances open or towards one side.

Starting and ending 1/4″ from each side seam, baste the upper edge of Ruffle 1 at 5/8″ seam allowance. (Leave a long thread tail and do not backstitch at either end.) Sew another line of basting stitches parallel to the first at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Gather the upper edge of Ruffle 1 evenly along the basting stitches.

With right sides together, pin Ruffle 1 to lower edge of skirt, matching notches and side seams.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance, being careful not to catch the pockets in your line of stitching.

Finish seam allowances using preferred method. Press seam allowances up toward skirt and remove visible basting stitches.

Optional: Edgestitch lower edge of skirt close to the ruffle seam, making sure to catch all seam allowances in line of stitching. This step isn’t necessary, but it does keep. the seam allowance pressed up and the seam line crisp.

If you are attaching a second ruffle just repeat everything you just did for first ruffle for the second one (pattern piece 4).

The following steps are for lining options only. If you are not attaching a lining, you are done for today.

With right sides touching, pin Skirt Lining pieces together at sides. Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances in desired manner and press open or toward the back lining.

With wrong sides touching, place lining inside skirt, matching up center and side seams. Pin along top edge. Baste at 3/8″ to secure.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow and we will sew up the waistband.

SEWALONG

MAVE SEWALONG DAY 1 – POCKETS

April 26, 2021

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the Mave sewalong. Today we are going to sew and attach the pockets. Let’s get started.

Please note that unless otherwise noted, all seam allowances will be 1/2″.

Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and dots from your pattern pieces to your fabric. For the Waistband, transfer stitching lines and buttonhole markings to the outside of your fabric, using chalk or your favorite washable marking tool.

Also, make sure that you have transferred notches with a small 1/4″ cut and dots with a disapperring marking tool of your choice.

Finish the outside curved edges of all four Pocket pieces using your preferred method. I will be serging them, but. you can also use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch.

Please note: the straight edge will be finished later.

With right sides touching, pin one Pocket to each side edge of the Skirt pieces, matching notches. Stitch the pocket in a 3/8″ seam allowance. (By stitching at 3/8″ instead of 1/2″, it allows the pocket to tuck inside of the sideseams.)

Finish the seam allowances of the side edge of each skirt piece in your desired manner, making sure to secure pocket seam allowance in the finishing.

Press pockets away from the skirt front or back and over seam allowances.

Understitch pocket by stitching close to the pocket seam through all layers, securing seam allowances underneath.

With right sides touching, pin skirt front to skirt back, matching raw edges, pockets and dots.

Starting at the upper edge of the skirt, stitch down to first dot in the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Leaving the needle down, pivot to stitch around the pocket until the second dot, then pivot to stitch down to the bottom edge of skirt, backstitching at both ends.

Press pockets and seam allowances toward one skirt piece (This will now be your front skirt). Pin the pockets in place so they lie flat. Turn skirt right side out.

To secure the pockets to the front skirt, stitch back and forth just above and below the dots through all layers. The stitching should be centered over the seam line and about 3/8″ long, as pictured.

That is it for today! Tomorrow we will come back and attach ruffles and linings to the skirt.

Please let me know if you have any questions. If you need to purchase the Mave Skirt sewing pattern you can do so here.