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PUFF SLEEVE SHELBY TUTORIAL

April 3, 2020

Today I am going to go over the instructions for the Shelby pattern puff sleeve add on. Before continuing, you will need the Shelby pattern (which you can purchase in my shop as either a pdf or paper pattern) and the free Puff sleeve pattern piece. You can get this as a pdf download by signing up for my newsletter here.

You will cut out all of your Shelby pattern pieces as instructed in the original pattern except, omit the sleeve pattern pieces and cut out the puff sleeve instead. You will need 3/8″ elastic for this hack, as well as a safety pin to insert your elastic into the sleeves.

You will sew up your Shelby according to the original instructions for Steps 1 – 24. The following instructions replace steps 25 – 30 of the original Shelby instructions.

The first thing we need to do is add gathering stitches to the top of your sleeve. A gathering stitch is a long straight stitch length of between 4.0mm and 5.0mm depending on your machine.

Without backstitching at either end, stitch a gathering stitch from the first armhole notch, stitching past the shoulder notch, and ending at the other armhole notch. You will do two lines of gathering stitches. One at 3/8″ seam allowance and another at 5/8″ seam allowance. Leave the thread ends long.

With wrong sides touching, fold the bottom of the sleeve up by 1/4″ and then again by 1/2″.

Because of the curve of the hem, you will need to ease in the fold when pressing. Don’t worry too much about this as you won’t see any pinches or gathers once the elastic is inserted.

Unfold the hem. With right sides touching, stitch up the inner sleeve seam at the normal 1/2″ seam allowance.

Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Press seam allowances open or towards the back. Fold the hem back up along the original press lines.

Stitch close to the inside fold, leaving an approximate inch opening to insert the elastic.

Now we are going to insert the sleeve into it’s coordinating armhole on the dress or romper. Start by gently pulling on the basting threads to gather the top of your sleeve. We will adjust the basting more once in the armhole.

With the sleeve turned right side out, and the dress or romper inside out, slip the sleeve into the armhole and line up the armhole openings. Match up the underarm seam with the side seam, and the shoulder (middle) notch at the shoulder seam. Align the outer notches, and gently pull on the basting thread tails to gather the fullness of the sleeve cap into the armhole of the garment.

Use your fingertips to even out the gathers and pin in place.
Take the ends of the basting stitches and figure 8 them around the pins at the notches to secure the gathering stitches.

Stitch the armhole using that normal 1/2″ seam allowance and a regular stitch length. Trim and finish seam allowances.

Press seam allowances towards the sleeve.

Take your 3/8″ elastic and wrap it around the widest part of your bicep without stretching. Add an inch to that measurement (1/2″ for ease and 1/2″ for overlap seam allowance) and cut two at that length.

Attach a safety pin to one end of one piece of elastic and string it through the casing you created at the hem of your sleeve.

Bring it out the other end, making sure it is not twisted at all.

Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1/2″ and stitch it flat.

Tuck the elastic back in the casing and sew up the opening.

Give your sleeve a final press and you are done. Repeat all steps for the other sleeve. Continue with step 31 of the original Shelby instructions to finish your garment.

I hope this was helpful and a fun and easy way to get more mileage out of your pattern. If you still need to purchase the Shelby pattern you can do so here.

SEWING TUTORIALS

ROSCOE PUFF SLEEVE AND CROPPED RUFFLE HACK

March 25, 2020

I sewed up a fun summer Roscoe blouse hack this week and wanted to share a step by step tutorial for those who wanted to do the same. It’s an easy hack and a great way to bring the spring / fall vibe of the Roscoe into the warmer summer months.

As for sizing, the Roscoe is quite oversized so you may want to think about sizing down for this hack since it is cropped. Totally up to you, but I did size down two whole sizes for the one shown in the pictures and it worked well.

Go ahead and cut out the pattern pieces for the neck ties, neck facing, and neck binding as usual according to the original pattern. Next, cut your sleeves out, but shorten them by about 4 inches. You can always shorten them more down the road. Make sure that you are following the curve of the hemline since the outside of the arm towards the elbow needs more length than the inside. The dotted red line is the new cut line.

Next, do the same for the front and back blouse. Trim about 10 inches off of the blouse length of the Roscoe. Note that the front is curved to allow extra length for your chest, so make sure to follow the same approximate curve of the hemline for your new cut line. If you think you may want the top a bit longer (mine is quite cropped) cut off less. We can always trim off more later.

Lastly, find the front and back ruffle pieces. You are going to keep the original widths, but only make the length of each 6 1/2″ long. If you prefer a longer top, simply add length. You can always trim off more at the end.

Now start sewing. Go ahead and sew up your Roscoe according to the instructions for steps 1 – 18. Now you should have a finished Roscoe from the chest up with a cropped bottom and raw sleeves.

Prepare your ruffle according to the instructions of steps 27 – 28.

This is a good time to try on your Roscoe and see if you need to adjust lengths. Holding or pinning the ruffle up to the cut line of your Roscoe, accounting for 1/2″ seam allowance on both the ruffle and main Roscoe as well as 1/2″ for the hem, and shorten if necessary. This is completely subjective. I kept mine quite short because I wanted that cropped look to wear with high waisted jeans, but feel free to leave it longer if you prefer it.

Once you are happy with the length and adjusted it as necessary, sew the gathered ruffle to the bottom of the main Roscoe as in steps 29 – 30 of the instructions. Also, hem the ruffle as in step 31 of the instructions.

Now to address the sleeves. Try it on and see what you think about the length. Shorten if necessary, keeping the hem in mind. If you prefer to leave it without the puffed look you can simply fold / press the hem 1/4″ twice and sew it.

If you want to sew the puffed look as shown above you will need some 3/8″ elastic. Measure around your bicep so that the elastic fits without any tightness and add 1/2″ for overlap. Cut two pieces of elastic that are this length and set aside.

Fold the bottom of your sleeve up by 1/4″ and press. Fold again at 1/2″ and press. Stitch the 1/2″ hem leaving a 1″ opening to insert the elastic. Insert your elastic. Overlap by 1/2″ and stitch to secure. Stitch the elastic opening closed.

Give everything a good press and you should be good to go.

That is it! I love how mine turned out. This version was sewn up in some lightweight cotton / silk from The Fabric Store, and I think I need another one in some drapey crepe next.

If you need the Roscoe pattern you can get it in my shop in either a pdf or paper format. Please let me know if something in the tutorial is not clear. I’d be happy to clarify.

SEWING TUTORIALS

BATCH HUDSON TUTORIAL

February 27, 2020

I have made so many Hudson pants over the years that I could sew them in my sleep. I have found that every year I need to make a few new pairs for me or my kids and I often batch sew them so I can cut and sew multiple pairs in a fraction of the time. I will say, don’t batch sew them until you have made a couple pairs first and checked the fit, but once you have that dialed in, batch sewing is a great option.

I often share my batch sewed Hudsons on instagram and get requests for the process so I thought it would fun to sew up three pairs of Mini Hudson pants for my kids to show you. You can definitely use the womens and mens patterns as well when batch sewing since the instructions are identical for all three, I just happened to need mini versions this time around.

For fabric I used three beautiful colors of french terry and matching ribbing from I See Fabric. They offered to gift me the fabric to try out and I thought this would be the perfect pairing. I am very impressed with the fabric. Gorgeous, on trend colors that are hard to find and the fabric is super soft and feels like great quality. I’ve already put in another order on my own dime.

OK, let’s get sewing. Because I am batch sewing them I forgo coordinating thread for my serger. I put gray in and used it for all three pairs. If you are using your sewing machine you will want to do the same thing for your thread. You still need matching thread for the buttonholes and topstitching, but we will wait til the end to switch those out.

Next we sew all of the pockets. Start by ironing the pocket bands and then following all steps for pockets. At the end, line your fronts up like so to make sure all is good and you have a right and left for each .

Now, take each back leg and sew up the outer and inside seams and line them all up again.

Take each right and left leg and sew up the crotch seams as the instructions say.. Then line them up.

Let’s finish everything else we can before we need to use our coordinating thread. Start by sewing up the cuffs.

Turn them right side out and fold them in half. Give them a press. While at the iron, go ahead and apply the interfacing to the waistband to prepare for the buttonholes.

Put the waistband aside and sew each cuff on.

Now it’s time to switch to your matching thread. I only put it in the top (not the bobbin) to make it easier, but that is up to you. You are going to finish each pair of pant at this point, switch out the thread, and finish the next. I am going to do my pink pair first by sewing on the buttonholes.

Next I sew the waistband on, insert the elastic,

and then finish by sewing the drawstring topstitching on the waistband and adding in the drawstring.

Finish up your other pairs and that is it. Much faster than sewing them each up individually.

SEWING TUTORIALS

SEVENTIES INSPIRED PATCH POCKET LANDER TUTORIAL

February 6, 2020

The Lander Pant and Short is the perfect blank canvas to create a very 70’s inspired patch pocket pant or short. Whether using the original button fly pattern or the zipper expansion, with just a few changes and the free patch pocket download (below), you will be all set.

The first thing I recommend doing is leaving off both the original front and back pockets. You will be replacing the front pockets with the patch pocket pattern pieces and I would just leave off the back pockets all together. This really adds to the 70’s look of the pant.

Go ahead and sew up your Landers through the creation of the fly. I recommend adding the patch pockets at the step where you baste the side seams of your Landers. This means pausing after step 19 in the original instructions and after step 26 in the zipper expansion instructions. Once you get to this step, set your pants or shorts aside and create your pockets.

A few things about the patch pocket pattern pieces. They come in sizes small, medium and large and recommended size ranges for each one. These are just suggestions though. You could use any of these pattern pieces on any size of Lander depending on how big you want to your pocket to be. This is your own personal preference. For reference, both of my samples were sewn with the small pocket sizes on a size 6 pant. I think next time I will try the medium size.

Another thing to note is that there are two different shapes to choose from. The angled pocket and the rounded pocket. The construction is very similar, although I would say that the angled pocket is a bit easier, so keep that in mind when choosing.

Click on the link below to access the pdf file. Print your pattern pieces off making sure you are using no scaling and printing at 100%. Cut out two coordinating pockets from your main fabric and make sure to mark your notches.

https://www.truebias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/TRUE-BIAS-LANDER-PATCH-POCKET-1.pdf

Unless stated the following instructions apply to both the angled and rounded patch pocket patterns.

Step 1 – With wrong sides touching, press in the top edge by 1/4″.

Step 2 – Take this folded edge and press it back at the notches, right sides touching. Pin in place on each side.

Step 3

Angled Pocket Only – Starting at the upper right hand corner, stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance down the right side, around the bottom, and up the left side, pivoting at each corner and backstitching at the beginning and end.

Rounded Pocket Only – Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the upper left and right sides for the distance of the folded down band backstitching to secure.

Rounded Pocket Only – Starting and stopping below the band and using a basting or gather stitch length, stitch around the sides and bottom of the rounded pocket in 1/2″ seam allowance. Slightly pull on the top thread to “gather” the bottom rounded section of the pocket. This will help turn in the seam allowance smoothly.

Step 4 – Clip the top corners and turn the folded edge right side out. Fold in the seam allowance at the stitching line. Give it a good press.

Step 5 – Topstitch along the bottom folded edge of the band to secure as shown in the picture.

Step 6 – Now it is time the attach the pockets to the front of your Landers. Like I mentioned before, the best time to do this is when you are basting the side seams for fit. I recommend pinning them on where you think they should go first. This is personal preference and takes some trial and error, but just to give you a ball park, mine were about 3 inches from center front and 2 inches from the top raw edge of my Lander fronts. Once they are pinned on, baste the sides seams of your Landers and try them on. Adjust the position of your pockets as necessary.

Step 7 – Once you are happy with the placement, pin them to secure. Pay extra attention to measuring their placement so they are equal from center front and the top. The fly can make them look unbalanced so you really have to trust your ruler for this step. Rip out the basting on the sides seams of your Landers and topstitch the sides and bottom of the patch pockets on. Do this before you sew up your sides in it’s final stitch length.


That is it! Sew up your Landers according to the normal instructions and you are good to go.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

ROSCOE NOW AVAILABLE IN SIZES 0 – 30

December 12, 2019

We are very excited to announce the release of a more inclusive size range for our Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewing pattern. The Roscoe has always been a fan favorite, so when we were asking which patterns you would like to see in the new 14-30 size range first, the Roscoe was top of the list. We are so glad that we were able to get this to you just in time to make one up for those holiday parties and events at the end of the year.

The 14 – 30 size range of the Roscoe is drafted for a D cup, instead of the C cup in our original 0 – 18 size range. Other than that, the style, overall look, and instructions are the same. Just like the original pattern, the style is oversized with lots and lots of ease so I do recommend sizing down if you want a slightly more fitted look or if your fabric has more stability like a lawn or linen.

My favorite fabric to use for the Roscoe is rayon challis or rayon crepe. I used rayon crepe from The Fabric Store for both of these samples and the drape and weight of this fabric gives the optimal amount of drama and movement.

If you have bought the Roscoe from us in the past, you do not need to rebuy the extended range. You will be getting an email from us including the new size range for free.

Both size ranges of the Roscoe PDF are 20% off thru this Sunday, December 15th with the code ROSCOELOVE.