TUTORIALS

HIGH RISE HUDSON TUTORIAL

October 29, 2020

The Hudson pants sewing pattern was my very first pattern. Since it’s release, styles have changed and I often get the request for a high rise alteration. I am super excited to be sharing it with you today. I’ve made three pairs with this tutorial already and I love them so much.

The Hudson pant originally was drafted to sit about 2 inches below the belly button in the front. It then gradually raises up along the sides to meet at the natural waist at center back. So essentially we are going to be raising the front by 2 inches and evening out the sides so that it is at the same level as the back.

First gather your front pattern pieces. This includes pieces 1, 3 and 4 . Stack them on top of one another so they all line up. Grab a piece of paper and put it behind the top of your Hudson pattern pieces.

Draw a 2 inch line up at center front.

Draw a perpindicular line to the left at the top of the 2 inch line.

Continue that line straight to the left until it is over the side seam.

Connect the side seam up to meet the newly drawn waistline.

Measure out the lines at the center front, outside pocket edge, pocket opening edge, and side seam.

Transfer all of these new cut lines to pattern pieces 1, 3 and 4. They should look something like this once you have attached them all to paper.

Line them all up on top of one another to double check them and transfer the notch up to the new waistline. Mark on all three pattern pieces so they line up.

Now we are going to adjust the pocket opening. We added 1.5″ to the pocket opening. We are going to add back in 1″ at the bottom just to keep it looking balanced. We will not take off any of the extra length of the pocket bag though. This hack gives you a really nice deep pocket bag which I love.

Start with pattern piece 4. Tape it to a piece of paper and measure up by 1″ at the bottom of the pocket opening.

Gradually draw the pocket opening line to rejoin the original line like this.

Transfer this new cut line to pattern piece 1.

Line them up to make sure they match.

You are also going to need to lengthen the pocket detail pattern piece by just .25″.

Now for the back. You are going to raise the side seam by the same measurement as the front side seam. For me it was 1″.

Draw a line from the top of this line to the center back.

Trim the back pattern piece and you are done.

You sew up the Hudsons using the same instructions as the original pattern.

I hope this was helpful! I love my new high rise Hudsons so much. If you need to buy the pattern you can purchase it in my shop here.

DIY MAKES TUTORIALS

SCRAP BUSTING ROSCOE BLOUSE

October 1, 2020

I love a good scrap busting project, and this Roscoe blouse, sewn up in 3 different leftover cuts of fabric, may be my favorite scrap buster to date.

I grabbed three rayon fabrics, all with the same basic color family, to use for this project. As you can see I did make a couple of hacks to the pattern. I used the peplum hack for the Roscoe that I blogged about here for the bodice.

Flor the sleeves, I lengthened them by about 6 inches, and then added an elastic casing at the wrist for a long sleeve hack. I also cut the sleeve in two so I could use two fabrics instead of one at the sleeve.

I am so happy with how this project turned out. I was not so sure about it half way thru, but in the end it has that perfect boho vibe that I love. Such a great transitional piece for fall.

Each of the three cuts were between 1/2 and 1 yard and I just mixed and matched them. There is no real science to it. If you have more fabrics than three that go well together, you could use more. Can’t wait to make another one soon.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 4:

September 10, 2020

THE FIRST STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. SKIP AHEAD FOR VIEWS C & D.

Turn your jumpsuit inside out. If you haven’t done so already, mark your stitch line for the elastic casing.

Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the lower edge. The facing should cover the upper edge of the pockets by about 1/4.” Pin securely, taking extra time to smooth the facing along the jumpsuit as you work.

Using a stretch stitch, sew along the bottom edge of the facing, 1/8″ from the raw edge, leaving a 2″ opening at center back.

Sew another line of stitching on the stitching guide line. This line of stitching does not need an opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the waistband elastic. Insert it through the waistline channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, pin, and try on for comfort. Once you are happy with the fit of the elastic, stitch to secure.

Sew up the opening you left at center back.

THE FOLLOWING STEP IS FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Turn your jumpsuit inside out.

Optional- Serge or zigzag stitch along the raw edge of your facing to help prevent it from rolling. Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the lower edge of the facing to the jumpsuit at center back, center front, and side seams.

Hand-tack or machine sew the facing to the seam allowances to keep it in place.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS B & D ONLY

With your jumpsuit inside out, fold up the lower edge of the leg by 1 1/4″ for sizes 0-18, 1 1/2″ for sizes 14-30 and 1″ for the mini sizes. Press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew 1/8″ from the raw edge leaving a 2″ opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the ankle elastic. Insert it through the hem cuff, making sure it does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″. Stitch to secure. Sew up opening in elastic channel. Repeat for the other leg.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & C ONLY

Turn up the bottom edge of the leg by 5/8″. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew closely to the raw edge to secure hem.

You’re finished!

OTHER

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 3:

September 9, 2020

Welcome back to day 3 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. The steps today are for all views of the jumpsuit.

First, with right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit at the inner leg edges, matching notches. Serge or sew the inner leg seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open or toward the Back Jumpsuit.

Turn one jumpsuit leg right side out. Insert this jumpsuit leg into the remaining jumpsuit leg, matching up notches and the inner leg seams. Right sides should be touching. Pin in place. Serge or sew the center front/center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open or to one side.

Turn the jumpsuit right side out and the facing wrong side out. With right sides touching, place the facing on top of the jumpsuit. The facing should be uppermost, as pictured below.

Pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the neck and armhole edges, matching notches, centers, and side seams. Please note: the facing is slightly smaller than the jumpsuit, which helps it turn to the inside when the garment is finished. Line up the raw edges, stretching to fit where necessary as you pin.

Serge or sew the neck and armhole seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. As you sew, make sure the shoulder edge of the back facing remains pressed toward the wrong side, as pictured.

Turn the facing to the inside of the jumpsuit. Press the armhole and neckline edges, allowing the facing to roll slightly toward the inside of the jumpsuit.

Pin the front jumpsuit and facing to the back jumpsuit at the shoulder edges, leaving the turned edges of the back facing free. Sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. As you stitch, fold back the back facing so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching as pictured. Trim your seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Tuck in the seam allowances under the folded back facing strap. Pin so the fold just covers the line of stitching.

On the outside, stitch in the ditch to secure the back facing along the shoulder seam. You can also choose to hand stitch the opening closed for a cleaner finish.

That is it! Tomorrow we will be back to finish up the jumpsuit. Can’t wait.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 2:

September 8, 2020

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Welcome back to day 2 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are continuing our sewalong with sewing up the pockets of views C and D of your jumpsuit (views with no elastic waistband).

First, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the two Pockets, AND on the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit pieces, matching dots. Unlike views A and B, views C and D only has two pocket pieces since we use a different method to attach the pockets.

To stabilize the Pocket opening edge, shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.5 mm. On the right side of your front jumpsuit, stitch from edge to upper dot, then pivot and stitch down to lower dot. Pivot again, and stitch to edge. This is 3/8″ from the side of your jumpsuit.

Clip at an angle to each dot, being careful not to cut through stitch line.

Turn the seam allowances between the dot toward the wrong side of the jumpsuit, folding along the line of stitching. Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from folded edge between dots to secure.

With the right side of the Pocket touching the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit, pin the pocket in place, matching up the dots and making sure everything lays flat.

Stitch around the edge of the pocket, 1/4″ from the raw edge, using a stretch stitch to secure.

Wrong side.

Right side.

With right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit, matching notches.

Sew the side seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (I do not recommend using a serger on this part as it is very hard to accurately sew the pocket area on a serger.) As you stitch towards the pocket area, gently pull back the pocket opening so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching.

The goal is to stitch as closely to the dots and corners as possible, while still leaving the opening free. Press seam allowances toward the Back Jumpsuit. You can baste this area first if you like. I usually need to go back and stitch this area closer after my first try.

It should look like this on the front of your jumpsuit if you did it correctly.

Repeat steps 10-13 for other side of jumpsuit.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow to continue making your Nova jumpsuit.