DIY MAKES TUTORIALS

SCRAP BUSTING ROSCOE BLOUSE

October 1, 2020

I love a good scrap busting project, and this Roscoe blouse, sewn up in 3 different leftover cuts of fabric, may be my favorite scrap buster to date.

I grabbed three rayon fabrics, all with the same basic color family, to use for this project. As you can see I did make a couple of hacks to the pattern. I used the peplum hack for the Roscoe that I blogged about here for the bodice.

Flor the sleeves, I lengthened them by about 6 inches, and then added an elastic casing at the wrist for a long sleeve hack. I also cut the sleeve in two so I could use two fabrics instead of one at the sleeve.

I am so happy with how this project turned out. I was not so sure about it half way thru, but in the end it has that perfect boho vibe that I love. Such a great transitional piece for fall.

Each of the three cuts were between 1/2 and 1 yard and I just mixed and matched them. There is no real science to it. If you have more fabrics than three that go well together, you could use more. Can’t wait to make another one soon.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 4:

September 10, 2020

THE FIRST STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. SKIP AHEAD FOR VIEWS C & D.

Turn your jumpsuit inside out. If you haven’t done so already, mark your stitch line for the elastic casing.

Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the lower edge. The facing should cover the upper edge of the pockets by about 1/4.” Pin securely, taking extra time to smooth the facing along the jumpsuit as you work.

Using a stretch stitch, sew along the bottom edge of the facing, 1/8″ from the raw edge, leaving a 2″ opening at center back.

Sew another line of stitching on the stitching guide line. This line of stitching does not need an opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the waistband elastic. Insert it through the waistline channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, pin, and try on for comfort. Once you are happy with the fit of the elastic, stitch to secure.

Sew up the opening you left at center back.

THE FOLLOWING STEP IS FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Turn your jumpsuit inside out.

Optional- Serge or zigzag stitch along the raw edge of your facing to help prevent it from rolling. Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the lower edge of the facing to the jumpsuit at center back, center front, and side seams.

Hand-tack or machine sew the facing to the seam allowances to keep it in place.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS B & D ONLY

With your jumpsuit inside out, fold up the lower edge of the leg by 1 1/4″ for sizes 0-18, 1 1/2″ for sizes 14-30 and 1″ for the mini sizes. Press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew 1/8″ from the raw edge leaving a 2″ opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the ankle elastic. Insert it through the hem cuff, making sure it does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″. Stitch to secure. Sew up opening in elastic channel. Repeat for the other leg.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & C ONLY

Turn up the bottom edge of the leg by 5/8″. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew closely to the raw edge to secure hem.

You’re finished!

OTHER

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 3:

September 9, 2020

Welcome back to day 3 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. The steps today are for all views of the jumpsuit.

First, with right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit at the inner leg edges, matching notches. Serge or sew the inner leg seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open or toward the Back Jumpsuit.

Turn one jumpsuit leg right side out. Insert this jumpsuit leg into the remaining jumpsuit leg, matching up notches and the inner leg seams. Right sides should be touching. Pin in place. Serge or sew the center front/center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open or to one side.

Turn the jumpsuit right side out and the facing wrong side out. With right sides touching, place the facing on top of the jumpsuit. The facing should be uppermost, as pictured below.

Pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the neck and armhole edges, matching notches, centers, and side seams. Please note: the facing is slightly smaller than the jumpsuit, which helps it turn to the inside when the garment is finished. Line up the raw edges, stretching to fit where necessary as you pin.

Serge or sew the neck and armhole seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. As you sew, make sure the shoulder edge of the back facing remains pressed toward the wrong side, as pictured.

Turn the facing to the inside of the jumpsuit. Press the armhole and neckline edges, allowing the facing to roll slightly toward the inside of the jumpsuit.

Pin the front jumpsuit and facing to the back jumpsuit at the shoulder edges, leaving the turned edges of the back facing free. Sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. As you stitch, fold back the back facing so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching as pictured. Trim your seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Tuck in the seam allowances under the folded back facing strap. Pin so the fold just covers the line of stitching.

On the outside, stitch in the ditch to secure the back facing along the shoulder seam. You can also choose to hand stitch the opening closed for a cleaner finish.

That is it! Tomorrow we will be back to finish up the jumpsuit. Can’t wait.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 2:

September 8, 2020

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Welcome back to day 2 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are continuing our sewalong with sewing up the pockets of views C and D of your jumpsuit (views with no elastic waistband).

First, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the two Pockets, AND on the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit pieces, matching dots. Unlike views A and B, views C and D only has two pocket pieces since we use a different method to attach the pockets.

To stabilize the Pocket opening edge, shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.5 mm. On the right side of your front jumpsuit, stitch from edge to upper dot, then pivot and stitch down to lower dot. Pivot again, and stitch to edge. This is 3/8″ from the side of your jumpsuit.

Clip at an angle to each dot, being careful not to cut through stitch line.

Turn the seam allowances between the dot toward the wrong side of the jumpsuit, folding along the line of stitching. Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from folded edge between dots to secure.

With the right side of the Pocket touching the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit, pin the pocket in place, matching up the dots and making sure everything lays flat.

Stitch around the edge of the pocket, 1/4″ from the raw edge, using a stretch stitch to secure.

Wrong side.

Right side.

With right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit, matching notches.

Sew the side seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (I do not recommend using a serger on this part as it is very hard to accurately sew the pocket area on a serger.) As you stitch towards the pocket area, gently pull back the pocket opening so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching.

The goal is to stitch as closely to the dots and corners as possible, while still leaving the opening free. Press seam allowances toward the Back Jumpsuit. You can baste this area first if you like. I usually need to go back and stitch this area closer after my first try.

It should look like this on the front of your jumpsuit if you did it correctly.

Repeat steps 10-13 for other side of jumpsuit.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow to continue making your Nova jumpsuit.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 1:

September 7, 2020

Welcome to day 1 of the Nova Jumpsuit. This sewalong works for all three size ranges of the pattern. Today we will be going over assembling the facing and also sewing up the pockets of views A and B (the views with the elastic waistband). We will do the pockets for views C and D tomorrow.

Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches, dots, and markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.

Keep in mind that one notch refers to a front piece, two notches refer to a back piece, and three notches refer to a side or inseam. Because the pattern pieces look so similar to one another, I find it helpful to put a piece of masking tape on the right side of all front pattern pieces for easy reference.

With right sides touching, pin Back Facing sections together at the center back. Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. 3/8″ is the standard seam allowance for this pattern. If we use something different I will let you know.

Press seam allowances open or toward one side.

We use a bit of a different method for finishing the shoulder seams of this pattern. In preparation, fold down 3/8″ seam allowance along Back Facing shoulder seams, with wrong sides touching. Press.

With right sides touching, pin the assembled Back Facing to the Front Facing at the sides. Serge or sew the side seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward the Back Facing. Set aside Facing for now.

THE NEXT FEW STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. If you are sewing up views C or D you are done for today and can join us back tomorrow.

To stabilize the pocket opening edge, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the four Pockets, as pictured.

With right sides touching, pin one Pocket section to each Front and Back Jumpsuit section, matching dots. Sew the pocket to the jumpsuit from top to bottom with a stretch stitch, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. (Using a 1/4″ instead of 3/8″ allows the pocket to tuck inside the seam and stay hidden.)

Press pocket away from main jumpsuit and over seam allowance.

Understitch Pocket, using a stretch stitch, by sewing 1/8″ from the seam and into the pocket, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will help the pocket to stay tucked to the inside and out of sight.

Pin one Front Jumpsuit to the coordinating Back Jumpsuit along the side seam, with pocket extended, as pictured.

Using a stretch stitch, sew the side seam from the armhole edge down to the first dot, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Backstitch to secure. Starting at the top outside edge of the Pocket, sew around the curved side and bottom edge, pivoting at the second dot. Continue sewing the side seam down to the lower edge of the leg. Repeat for other Front and Back.

Press pockets toward the front jumpsuit, ensuring it lays flat. Pin generously to secure in place for future steps.

This is how it will look on the right side. The ruler is there to show you the pocket opening.