TUTORIALS

OGDEN CAMI RUFFLE HACK TUTORIAL

August 11, 2020

Hi Everyone! Angelica here over at Angelica Creates (@angelica_creates on the ‘gram) and I’m so excited to be on the True Bias blog this week to share my Ogden Cami with a ruffle neckline! I was so thrilled when Kelli approached me to create a tutorial/hack for the Ogden Cami as it has been on my list to sew for a while. 

While doing my usual browsing through Pinterest for style inspiration, I discovered ruffle neckline camisoles. I thought they were super cute and that the style would be an easy and simple hack for the Ogden Cami pattern, so that became my inspiration for this project.

Making my ruffle neckline Ogden Cami was so fun! I made it with a silk charmeuse from Fabrics & Fabrics. It’s important for my camisoles to be light and airy. I typically wear them with a blazer or cardigan, so silk was the perfect choice for me. 

If you want to make your own Ogden Cami with a ruffle neckline, you can follow my process below!

Fabric Recommendation

When choosing fabric for this hack, I recommend a lighter fabric so that the ruffle doesn’t look too bulky. I also recommend buying an extra ¼ yard of fabric.

Measuring Out the Ruffle

Length

In testing a few different options, I found that using a straight strip of fabric is the easiest and most efficient way to create the ruffle. I tested my idea out by making a muslin and was pleased with how it turned out!

I also wanted to make sure I provided everyone with a method to work with every size. It takes a bit of math, but below is how I calculated the length of fabric for the ruffle:

After my calculation, the length came out to roughly 40 inches total, +/- ¼ inch or so. I rounded to 40 inches for both the front and back since it would be gathered anyway. You can always make your fabric strip longer if you want a more dramatic ruffle! I kept mine fairly minimal.

Width

I wanted a thin and minimal ruffle, so I opted for a width of ¾ in. I also added a ½ inch allowance on both long sides for a total of 1 ¾ in. Of course, if you want your ruffle to be even thinner or thicker you can measure out whatever works best for you!

When cutting my fabric, I used a 20 inch strip of paper as my pattern piece and cut on the fold to total 40 inches.

Sewing the Ruffle to the Camisole

At Step 2:

After preparing my straps, I also prepared my ruffle at step 2.

Finish one long edge of each fabric strip by pressing the raw edge up ¼ inch, then press up again by another ¼ inch. Sew as close to the folded edge as possible, creating a narrow hem.

At this point, sew 2-3 rows of gathering stitches. With right sides together, pin the ruffle pieces to the front and back cami, gathering along the neckline and armhole. I distributed most of the gathers along the neckline and at the top of the armhole. I reduced the amount of gathers around the strap and underarm areas.

Baste the ruffle to the front/back cami.

At Step 3:

Pin and baste the strap to the front cami as instructed. Move the ruffle fabric away from the strap edge so it doesn’t get caught while basting the strap.

The straps and ruffle should now be basted to the front and back cami. Press the ruffle up away from the front/back cami, pressing the seam allowance towards the ruffle.

At Step 4:

Follow the instructions for sewing the side seams but don’t sew across the ruffle neckline seam. This ensures that the neckline seam is not sewn down to the cami. The seam needs to be free since the ruffle will be flipped back down towards the cami in preparation for sewing the lining. Instead, sew right up to the edge of the seam and backstitch to secure your stitches.

Flip the ruffle back down towards the cami with right sides together.

Note: I realized after the fact that another (probably better) option is to sew the fabric strips together in a circle with the short edges together, then attach to the front/back cami – similar to attaching the lining. This method would avoid having to start/stop sewing at the neckline seam.

At Steps 6 and 7:

Follow the instructions for sewing the lining, but be extra careful with the ruffles so that they don’t get caught in the process. It helps to pin them out of the way.

The straps should be behind the ruffle when you turn the cami right side out. 

At Steps 9 and 10:

When sewing the straps to the back cami, make sure that the strap will be behind the back ruffle when the cami is turned right side out. This is what it should look like:

At Step 11:

Turn the cami right side out and press. Instead of understitching the lining, top stitch along the neckline and armhole. This provides a bit more structure so the ruffle will stand up and not flop back down.

Follow the rest of the pattern instructions to finish your camisole, then give it a final press! You should now have a lovely Ogden Cami with a cute ruffle neckline!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern hack tutorial. It was so fun creating this version and I’m so excited to see how everyone’s versions turn out!

TUTORIALS

OGDEN CAMI BIAS SLIP DRESS TUTORIAL

August 4, 2020

Hi everybody! It’s Raven from @Ravenmaureen_! And I’m so excited to guest blog over here at True Bias! I’m a huge fan of all of their patterns (I have several) but the Ogden Cami has a special place in my heart. So much so, that I’ve made 8 different variations and none of them are quite the same! 
Today I’m going to walk you through how to make an Ogden Cami bias slip dress! Slip dresses are definitely “in” right now and if you already own this pattern then you’ve got all the tools that you need. But here’s what you need to know! Fabric cut on the bias is very tricky and sensitive throughout the making process. I suggest trying to finish this project in a day if you can to avoid unnecessary stretching. 

Supplies: 

  • Ogden Cami pattern
  • 3-4 yards of fabric (approximately 60 inches)

Fabric Suggestions: 

  • Satin polyester
  • Rayon Challis 
  • Cotton voile
  • Light weight linen


My fabric is from Style Makers Fabric

Step 1: Extend your ogden cami pattern main pieces to a dress length. Midi is always perfect for a bias slip dress. This depends on your personal preference and height.


Step 2: Extend your strap piece patterns by 3 inches. This step is optional since this will create a deeper neckline for the front and back. 


Step 3: Press your fabric and make sure there are absolutely no wrinkles. 


Step 4: Find your true bias. No pun intended. Take the corner of your fabric and fold it onto itself right sides together like this.

The wrong side of your fabric should look like a right-angle triangle. You might have to do this step on the floor since it may take up a lot of space. If so, make sure that your fabric is extremely flat and even. You may test your bias by stretching along the fold. If it stretches, then you’ve found your bias!


Step 5: Take your main pattern piece and line up the folded fabric edge with your “on the fold” pattern edge. Make sure all sides of the pattern piece are inside the triangle. Now you may begin to cut. Using the other edge of the fabric, repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other main pattern piece.


Step 6: Cut all of your pieces this exact same way, including the lining pieces and the straps. You may use the middle of your fabric and fold it into a triangle to get the same bias effect.


Step 7: Once all of your pieces are cut, leave all of your pieces flat on the table. It’s best to avoid “fiddling,” mock try-ons or holding it up to look at it for the time being. 


Step 8: Stay stitch every cut edge of your pieces. In the instructions for the Cami, you are required to stay-stitch the neckline and armholes. Repeat these same steps but add all of the side seams (main and lining pieces), and the hem lines too. Make sure that your fabric does not hang off the sewing table during this process. 


Note: Once all sides are stay-stitched, it is completely normal for the edges to begin to ruffle. Do not press them out. 


Step 9: Begin following all of the instructions for the Ogden Cami per usual. However, be sure to use extra pins on all of your pieces and avoid letting any pieces hang off your sewing table as you sew. If you can, sew carefully while your other hand holds the excess to keep everything even. Following these guidelines will help you avoid uneven hemlines and over stretched areas.


Step 10: Give your dress a good press. When ironing a dress like this you want to avoid dragging your iron across the fabric in circular motions. Simply press, steam, lift and repeat. You may use a pressing ham as well. 


Step 11: Complete all the steps of the cami except for the hem finish for the main pieces. Once your slip dress is complete, hang it on a hanger or dress form overnight. Then give it a narrow hem in the morning. This will allow the fabric to fall and drape beautifully. 
Your all finished! 

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

INTRODUCING THE NOVA JUMPSUIT

July 29, 2020

A couple of months ago when I first started designing this pattern, we had just stared our Covid lockdown. The way I was dressing was starting to shift and what I needed didn’t exist in my wardrobe. I wanted a comfy, easy to throw on outfit that could double as both loungewear and daywear. As I started dreaming up what this might look like, the Nova started to form.

The Nova pattern is a knit, pull-on jumpsuit with no fiddly closures. It has four views. Views A and B have a wide elastic waistband and inseam pockets. Views C and D have a straight fit through the waist and attached front pockets. Views A and C are a short romper length while Views B and D are long with an elastic casing at the ankle.

The Nova is currently offered as PDF only. It comes in two size ranges – sizes 0 – 18 and a C cup and 14 – 30 and a D cup. You can access both size ranges from my site here.

We will talk more about fabric in later posts, but for now just know that this pattern works best in light to medium weight knits with at least 20% stretch. I prefer stable knits like cotton interlock or t-shirt jersey. You can also use slinkier knits like rayon or bamboo, just know that these fabrics have a tendency to grow as you sew them so you may need to size down, especially in the height, to accommodate.

There will be a full sewalong coming for the Nova in September when we release the mini version of this pattern. You can purchase the Nova here at 20% off (no code needed) through this Sunday.

SEWING

THE OGDEN IS NOW AVAILABLE IN SIZES 0-30

July 9, 2020

We are very excited to announce the update of our beloved Ogden cami sewing pattern to a more inclusive size range. The Ogden has always been our most popular pattern so we have not been surprised that we have had so many requests to make it available in more sizes. You can now purchase the pattern in a 0-18 size range with a C cup and 14-30 with a D cup (as well as a kids size range of 2T-10).

Because of the larger cup size, we widened the strap so it would easily cover a thicker bra strap and also added a bust dart for more shaping and room. The bust dart also comes in handy if you are interested in doing an additional FBA.

Other than that, the instructions and basic shape are the same as the 0-18 size range to keep it as close to the original design as possible.

If you have bought the Ogden from us in the past, you do not need to rebuy the extended range. You will be getting an email from us including the new size range for free. Please be patient as we send out emails over the next few days. If you think you should have gotten the email and have not, feel free to email us through our website so we can help.

You can find more information about the Ogden pattern including measurements and fabric recommendations through our shop here. You will find the Ogden pdf in sizes 14-30 is on sale (no code needed) through the end of the week.

OTHER SEWING TUTORIALS

SCOOP NECK RIO HACK

May 22, 2020

I am back today with another simple hack for the Rio pattern. Today I am going to show you how to create a scoop neck version of the pattern instead of the crew neck style that it comes with.

To create this pattern you are going to make adjustments to the main front and back pieces and also the neckband. The sleeve and sleeve band pattern pieces will not be changed at all.

First take the back pattern piece. You are going to want to widen the neck opening a bit so we will make the shoulder seam shorter. I decided to take 1″ off of the neck edge of the shoulder seam. This is on a size 8. You may want to make it a bit more or less depending on your size and the look you are going for.

Now draw a nice curved line back to the original back neck cut line. Be sure that the line that intersects with the shoulder seam is at a 90 degree angle. Trim your neck back neckline.

Just like you did on the back, make a mark 1″ (or whatever measurement you decided on) on the shoulder seam closest to the neckline.

Make another mark down the center front that will be for the depth of the scoop. I decided to mark 4″ down for this one. Next time I may increase that a bit, but this is personal preference.

Now, connect the two markings with a nice curved line, making sure that the beginning and end are perpendicular to the CF and shoulder seam.

Cut along your new neckline.

Measure your new front neckline and your new back neckline. Add them together, multiple by 2 and subtract 3/4″ for seam allowance (because of the way the Rio in constructed we only need to account for the front and back shoulder seam allowance of one shoulder seam). Then multiple this number by 70% (.7). This will be the new neckband length. Here is an example.

Back Neck (4.6″) + Front Neck (10″) = 14.6″ x 2 = 29.2 – Seam Allowance (.75″) = 28.45 x .7 = 19.92″

So I will cut my neckband as the same width as the original pattern but the length with be about 20″.

Now cut out all of your pattern pieces and sew it up.

The construction does not change at all from the original instructions.

That is it. I am so happy with the way this hack turned out. I already am planning to make a few more for easy summer wardrobe essentials. If you want to purchase the Rio pattern you can do so here.