We are very excited to announce the release of a more inclusive size range for our Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewing pattern. The Roscoe has always been a fan favorite, so when we were asking which patterns you would like to see in the new 14-30 size range first, the Roscoe was top of the list. We are so glad that we were able to get this to you just in time to make one up for those holiday parties and events at the end of the year.
The 14 – 30 size range of the Roscoe is drafted for a D cup, instead of the C cup in our original 0 – 18 size range. Other than that, the style, overall look, and instructions are the same. Just like the original pattern, the style is oversized with lots and lots of ease so I do recommend sizing down if you want a slightly more fitted look or if your fabric has more stability like a lawn or linen.
My favorite fabric to use for the Roscoe is rayon challis or rayon crepe. I used rayon crepe from The Fabric Store for both of these samples and the drape and weight of this fabric gives the optimal amount of drama and movement.
If you have bought the Roscoe from us in the past, you do not need to rebuy the extended range. You will be getting an email from us including the new size range for free.
Both size ranges of the Roscoe PDF are 20% off thru this Sunday, December 15th with the code ROSCOELOVE.
We are very excited to announce the launch of a new and improved size range for the Lodo dress sewing pattern. You can now purchase the Lodo in either a size range of 0 – 18 with a C cup or a size range of 14 – 30 and a D cup. The Lodo is our first pattern that has our new size range and we couldn’t be happier with the result. We are currently working on some of our other patterns behind the scenes and can’t wait to show those to you soon.
You may wonder how the size 14 – 30 version differs from the original size 0 – 18 design. The answer is not very much. Our size 14 – 30 size chart and block has a slightly more curvy set of dimensions than our size 0 – 18 block. As a result it is drafted for a D instead of a C cup (meaning a 4″ rather than a 3″ difference between your full and high bust) and has a 1″ larger difference between the waist and hip circumference. Both size ranges are drafted for an average height of 5’5″. You can see our new size chart below.
To accommodate the fuller bust on our new block, we added a bust dart to the 14 – 30 size range of the Lodo. Not only does this give you a bit more room in the bust area, but it also gives you a place to make adjustments for fuller or smaller busts if needed.
Other than the dart, the shape and design of the Lodo should look just the same as the 0 – 18 design. It has a subtle cocoon shape to the body of the dress, hitting a couple of inches above the knee for View B and mid-calf for View A. View A also has a center back slit for movability.
This updated and slightly more sophisticated version of a T-shirt dress is best sewn up in structured knits such as ponte, scuba, and double knit . with an approximate 25% amount of stretch. It’s an easy sew that we think is perfect for all of the holiday events coming up.
Last year when it seemed like all of instagram was knitting up sweaters from Good Night Day, I too decided to give it a go. I had started and given up on a few other knitting projects, but fell hard for the chunky turtleneck and cropped length of the Moosonee sweater so I thought I would give it a try.
After a lot of indecision I finally landed on the merino wool Chill yarn from Sugar Bush Yarns in the color Wintery Wine. I have to admit that this took me an entire year to knit. No because it should have. It’s a quite an easy knit and the chunky yarn knits up really fast, but I just had a hard time sticking to it. I am still very much a beginner knitter so every time I sat down to knit I had to really concentrate.
The final result is far from perfect, but I am pretty pleased with myself nonetheless. I knitted a whole sweater! Which for me is huge. I can look past the mistakes. And the good thing about it taking a whole year is I finished it just in time for the weather to turn cold again.
I would definitely recommend this pattern for the beginner who is ready to take on their first sweater. For me, it’s been good to remember what it feels like to be a beginner at a new craft. This took a lot patience and some serious determination but the end result makes me want to start a new project right away.
Welcome to the last day of the Calvin wrap top and dress sewalong. The first thing we are going to do it try on the top or dress as it is to see if we need to make any changes.
Step 16 – To wear, lap the right front over the left, inserting the left tie through the buttonhole and wrapping it around the back to the front. Insert the right tie through the thread chain loop, wrapping it around the back and bringing it back to the front. Adjust the ring and sliders so that the dress / top is sitting at the correct height on your shoulders.
Secure the ties with a bow at the left side opening (when wearing) or center front according to your preference. I decided to tie it in the front this time but it’s completely up to you. Trim ties as needed so they are the same length when tied and the length that you prefer.
Check the garment’s hem length and shorten if necessary. Mark position for optional modesty snap at center front if desired.
Step 17 – Using a hand sewing needle and thread, sew the socket end of the snap to the outside of the left front at the marking you made.
Sew the ball end of the snap to the inside of the right front at the marking you made.
Step 18 – Fold under the end of each tie by 1/4″ and then again at 3/8″. Press (steam and starch really helps keep this pressed well).
Stitch along the folded edge to secure end.
Tip: If you put a piece of paper under the tie on your sewing machine it makes it easier to sew that very small bit of fabric.
Step 19 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the garment up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching. Press. Fold again by 3/8″ for the top and 3/4″ for the dress.
Welcome back to day 4 of the Calvin sewalong. Today we will finish up the straps and create all of the things we need for the waist ties to be secure.
Step 12 – To prevent it from fraying, zigzag stitch the raw end at the back of the armhole. I like to do a small zigzag with a width of 2mm and a length of 1mm.
With right sides facing up, insert the bias binding through the ring.
Fold back the bias binding toward the inside of the garment. I like to cheat the strap inward a bit so that it does not show on the outside of the garment once sewn down.
Stitch securely in line with your topstitching along the back neck binding.
Step 13 – With the right side facing up, slip the slider onto the front strap and move to about halfway down the length of the strap.
Insert the free end of the strap through the ring at the back armhole edge. Make sure that nothing is twisted.
Insert the end of the strap through the inside of the slider, extending the end by 1″. The end will be sandwiched inside the loop you created. It helps to loosen the part of your strap that is already threaded through the slider to allow more room to work with.
With wrong sides up, stitch the end of the strap to the inner loop to secure it. You may want to baste this line of stitching first and try it on to check the length of your strap.
Once you have created a straight line of stitching, zigzag stitch over the raw end and through the inner loop to prevent fraying just like you did before.
It should look like this once you are done.
Step 14 – Stitch buttonhole at the right side seam (when worn) according to the marking. I like to add fray check to my buttonhole before I open it. Make sure the seam allowances are pressed toward the back, and that the buttonhole stitching goes through all layers.
Step 15 – Sew a 1″ thread chain at the left side seam (when worn) according to marking. Use the following instructions to create your thread chain.
Cut two pieces of thread that are about 25 inches long and pass them through your hand sewing needle. Double them up for four strands of thickness. Tie a large knot in the end.
Anchor the threads by passing through the garment and seam allowances from the wrong side, and out onto the right side of the garment at one of the dots.
Make a small backstitch on the outside of the garment at the same dot marking. Pull thread through, creating a large loop.
Insert your left thumb and pointer finger through the loop, spreading it wide. Hold the thread tail with your right hand.
Pinch the thread tail with your left thumb and pointer finger, continuing to hold the tail taut with your opposing hand.
Pull the pinched thread tail through the loop you created, as pictured. Continue to hold the end of the thread tail with your right hand, allowing enough slack to pull through.
Tighten the loop into a knot at the base of the thread tail, close to the garment. Use your right and left hands to pull up the slack and close the loop.
Once again, insert your left thumb and forefinger through the new loop you just created. Repeat the previous steps until you have created a thread chain that measures 1″.
Pass the thread tail with hand sewing needle through the last loop to create a knot.
Pass needle and tail through to the wrong side of the garment and seam allowance at the second dot marking and knot securely on the inside.
It will look like this once you are all done.
And that is it for today. We are so close! Tomorrow we will just finish a few things up and we will be done.