SEWING TUTORIALS

TIE STRAP / ELASTIC WAIST OGDEN HACK

July 25, 2021

Welcome back to our third hack in the Ogden Month series. I am super excited about this one. Today I will show you how to make this tie shoulder / elastic waist blouse hack using the Ogden Cami pattern. Let’s get started.

You will need your front, back and strap pattern pieces for this hack. You will use the front and back to create the linings as well so don’t worry about the lining pattern pieces.

First let’s talk straps. Since the straps will be tied a the shoulder, we will need 4 instead of 2 of them. We will also need to lengthen them quite a bit. As a starting point I decided to make my straps 3 x their normal length. This was pretty close in the end.

Next, let’s work on the front. We want to shorten it since it will be ending at the natural waist instead of around the hip. I decided to take 3 inches off of the bottom as a starting point (we will take more off later once we try it on). Measure the 3″ up from the hem to keep the shape the same.

We also need to straighten out the sides since we no longer need the extra width for the hips. Starting around the bust area, I drew a line straight down to the bottom and trimmed it off like below.

Now, repeat everything that you did for the front to the back pattern piece.

Cut out

  • 2 fronts on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 2 backs on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 4 ties

Sew up your ties according to the instructions and set them aside.

Following the instructions for the Ogden cami, staystitch, sew each front to one back, and press. (You will have one main cami and one lining cami sewn up.)

On the main cami, pin one tie to each of the 4 strap points.

Following the Ogden instructions, sew the main and lining cami’s together, attaching all four straps at the same time.

Turn the Ogden right side out, understitch, and give it all a good press.

Now to figure out the elastic casing. I am using 3/4″ elastic for mine, but you can use whatever width you choose.

Put your Ogden on and tie the straps. Wrap your elastic around the natural waist (or wherever you want it to sit). Adjust your cami so that it has a small even amount of blousing above the elastic.

Using a marking tool, mark at the top of your elastic. It’s much easier to get a friend to help with marking the back.

Once marked, take off your cami. Make sure that the lining is laying flat underneath and fold along the center fornt and center back. Smooth out your markings like below (top marked line).

Measure and mark another line below the first to be your cut line. This one accounts for the extra amount needed for your elastic casing. The amount will be your elastic width x 2 + 1/4″ for space + 1/4″ press under. For me that looked like 3/4″ x 2 = 1.5″ + 1/4″ + 1/4″ = 2″.

Cut along the bottom line thru all layers.

Pull the main cami up and out of the way so you just have the lining extended. We are going to trim down the lining so it just tucks inside the casing by 1/4″.

So for me, I marked and trimmed off 1 3/4″ off of the lining.

Pull the main cami back down and make sure everything is flat and lining up. Turn it inside out. Press the main cami up by 1/4″ wrong sides touching.

Press it up again by 7/8″ (or your elastic width plus about 1/8″). It should cover the lining by about 1/4″. Press and pin generously.

Edgestitch the casing closed, leaving a small 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

Cut your elastic to a comfortable length (Don’t make it too tight or it will ride up when you are wearing it.).

Insert the elastic thru the casing.

Overlap the ends and stitch the elastic to secure it.

Sew up the opening in the casing.

Trim loose threads and give it a good press. You are done!

SEWING TUTORIALS

BUTTON FRONT MINI DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 17, 2021

We are back for the second week of Ogden Month and the second hack. Today we are going to use the Ogden cami pattern to create a short, button front dress. I’m loving how this hack turned out and can’t wait to show you how I created it.

As far as fabric goes you will need your main fabric (I am using a linen cotton blend), lightweight fusible interfacing, and about 6 5/8″ buttons.

For this hack you are going to need all of your pattern pieces. So go ahead and get those printed and ready to go.

Lets start with pattern piece 1 – the main front piece.

  • First, we need to lengthen it to a dress. I wanted mine to be a few inches above the knee and I am 5’3″. In the end I added 11 inches to the bottom and that was perfect for me (it includes a 2 inch hem). But depended on your height you may want to add more or less length.
  • Next we need to connect the side seam down to the new hem. You will free hand this, leaving a small curve for the hip. You will take more width out later once it’s sewn up and you try it on so dont be too worried about it. Just do you best as a starting point.
  • Since the Ogden is cut on the fold, we will add width for the button overlap (I will add 5/8″ for my 5/8″ buttons. This will give a little extra room around the buttons when they are centered at center front.) and also 1/2″ for the seam allowance at center front.

For the back, it is going to be cut on the fold so you do not need to worry about center back. Just extend that line straight down.

For the side seam and bottom of the back, flip the front onto the back and line up sides. Keep the grainlines the same so it stays balances and copy the side seam and bottom front the front to the back piece so they match. Super simple. Remember that you will be basting and adjusting the sides later.

Your front and back should look something like this.

Now for the linings which really are more like facings when we get done with them.

  • First copy the center front extention (5/8″ button extenttion plus 1/2″ seam allowance plus length of the dress.)
  • Next, Starting at the side seam, we are going to trim the facing so it’s about 2 21/2″ wide. Do not cut too close into the strap area. Keep the cut line a smooth curve. It should look something like this:

Do the same for he back facing.

In the end your facings should look like this:

Now cut out your pieces as follows:

  • 2 fronts main fabric
  • 1 back cut on fold main fabric
  • 2 straps main fabric
  • 2 front facings main fabric
  • 2 front facings interfacing
  • 1 back facing cut on fold main fabric
  • 1 back facing cut on fold interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to facings.

Sew up side seams of facings. Press seam allowances open. Finish the inside edge of your facing in your desired manner. I serged it.

Now sew up the main dress according to the instructions by sewing up the straps and staystitching.

With right sides touching, pin up side seams. Because we are going to be fitting the dress later, I recommend stitching the first few inches down (including finishing the seam allowance) and then basting the rest of the way to the hem. We will come back and finish the side seams after fitting them.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

With right sides touching, pin the facing to the main dress. Following the instructions for the Ogden, stitch, add in straps, trim and understitch.

The only difference is that at center front you want to stitch straight down to the hem and clip the corner seam allowance to avoid bulk.

Once it’s all turned out and pressed it should look like this:

Next, let’s address the side seam fit. Overlap the right side over the left by 1 1/4″ and pin. Try on the dress inside out and pin the side seams until you get the right fit. Trim excess and stitch the side seams accordingly. Finish seam allowances and press towards back.

Next up hem. Finish the bottom raw edge (I serged it).

With right sides touching, fold the facing back onto the main dress and pin.

Stitch the length of the facing at the height of your hem (I am sewing a 2″ hem).

Clip corners and turn right side out. This will give you a nice finish at the center front corners.

Continue to press up your hem all of the way around the dress. Pin and stitch from facing edge to facing edge.

Now we just need to add the buttons.

On the right front when wearing, mark button holes vertically down the front. The buttons holes should be at center front (5/8″ in from the folded edge) and start about 5/8″ down from the top. Sew on button holes and open them.

With the right side 1 1/4″ over of the left, mark button placement thru open buttonholes. The first button is at the top of the first buttonhole and the others are centered in the buttonholes.

Sew on buttons. Give it a good press and we are done!

I hope this Ogden hack was fun. Let me know if you have any questions.

TUTORIALS

OGDEN PEPLUM / ROULEAU BUTTON FRONT HACK

July 11, 2021

As part of Ogden Month, I am sewing up four different hacks for the Ogden cami pattern. The first one is this peplum version with rouleau buttons down the front. I’m really excited about this one. It’s a pretty simple hack overall, I think the button feature really adds a lot.

For this hack you are going to need 3 of the pattern pieces. You will need the strap, the front lining and the back lining. I decided to add an inch to the bottom of pieces 3 and 4 since I likes where that hit better, but that is up to you.

We also need to add seam allowance to the front bodice. To do this, simply add 1/2″ to the center front of pattern piece 3 as shown below.

Next we need to draft an extension for the left center front. This extension will make sure that you have coverage behind the rouleau buttons. The extention will 1″ wide plus seam allowances, so 2″ wide and the length of Center front.

Lastly, we need to draft the loops for the rouleau buttons. This will be 1 1/4″ wide and 10 inches long. This will be long enough for 5 2″ loops. Make it longer if you are adding more buttons.

Now cut out your fabric as follows:

(3) Front – Cut 4 (2 main and 2 lining)

(4) Back – Cut 2 on fold (1 main 1 lining)

(5) Strap – Cut 2

Left Extension – Cut 2 Main Cut 2 Interfacing

Button loop – Cut 1 on bias

Leave some fabric for the peplum. We will be cutting that out after we have assembled the top portion.

Apply fusible interfacing to the backs of the extensions.

On the left front (when wearing) main and lining, sew extention along Center front.

Trim seam allowances. Press extention away from center front.

Sew up the sides seams so you have a main bodice and coordinating lining bodice.

Make the rouleau button loop. Fold in half, right sides touching, sew 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim seam allowances to 1/16″.

Turn right side out, press and cut in 2″ sections.

Fold each 2″ section into a small loop. Tape or pin to the center front of the right side of your main bodice when wearing. Keep in mind that the center front has a 1/2″ seam allowance at the top and bottom. Position and space accordingly.

Pin the lining for the right front on top of the main right front. Baste down at 1/2″ seam allowance to check the loops.

When happy with it, pin the rest of the lining to the main bodice and sew up according the Ogden instructions.

Staystitch, sew up the sides seams, sew and attach straps, and sew the lining to the main bodice. The only difference is at center front. You will sew straight down center front at 1/2″ seam allowance on the left and right sides.

Trim and turn it right out and press. It should look something like this.

Place the right side over the left side when wearing so that it lines up at center front. Baste the bottom of the bodice together at 3/8″ seam allowance all of the way around.

Now it is time to draft the peplum. Measure the front and back bottom edges. Take that number and multiply by 1.3. Round to the nearest whole number, and add 1 inch for seam allowance. This will be the width of each peplum. We will use mine (size 6) as an example.

Front = 19.5″ x 1.3 = about 25 + 1 = 26″

Back = 18.5″ x 1.3 = about 24 +1 = 25″

For the length I cut 8″. I knew that I wanted mine cropped though so you may want to cut it longer, knowing you always trim it later.

Cut your two pieces and pin right sides touching. Sew up short sides, finish seam allowances and press open.

Baste along front and back top edge at 3/8″ and again at 5/8″.

Gather top edge so it matches the width of your bodice.

Pin with right sides touching. Sew at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Finish seam allowances and press them down towards hem.

Try on and check length. Trim if needed (I took off 2 inches).

Hem by folding at 1/4″ with wrong sides touching. Fold again at 1/4″ and stitch.

Lastly, buttons. Mark button placement through button loops.

Hand sew on each button.

And that is it. I really love how this Ogden hack turned out. Let me know if you have any questions.

SEWING TUTORIALS

RORY ELASTIC WAIST HACK

May 14, 2021

Today I am going to share a simple hack for the Rory Jumpsuit so you can omit the D-rings but still have some waist definition by adding a bit of elastic to the back and sides. This will work with any of the jumpsuit views, but I chose to use the shorts version with the extended sleeves.

To begin, cut out and assemble your pattern according to the instructions. Instead of sewing up the shoulder seams, sew up the side seams so that when you lay it flat, the back is in the middle and the fronts are extended on the two sides.

Take a strip of fabric that is the height of your elastic (mine is 2 inchs) plus 1 inch for seam allowances and 1/4″ for ease. So mine is 3 1/4″ tall. This will be the height of your elastic casing. The width will measure from the first front princess seam on the left, to the one on the right, plus one inch for fold under.

Press the two long edges in by 1/2″.

Press in short ends by 1/2″.

Place the strip on the inside of your jumpsuit so that it centers over the D ring markings.

Pin along long ends.

Edgestich along long ends.

Sew up the rest of the jumpsuit. I decided to wait on the buttons until the end but you can add those now if you want.

Cut a piece of elastic that is a few inches shorter than your waist- you will trim it more later.

Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it thru the casing, leaving ends extended.

Check the fit of the elastic. Dont make it too tight or it will pull on the buttons.

Once it’s right, trim and tuck the ends so that they tuck inside the short folded ends of the casing. Pin.

On the right side of your jumpsuit, stitch in the ditch of the princess seam at the section where it covers the waistband casing. Make sure it secures the elastic and closes up casing. It will look like this:

And that is it! A super easy and fun hack for the Rory Jumpsuit.

SEWALONG

Mave Sewalong Day 4 – Hemming & Finishing Touches

April 29, 2021

It’s the last day of the Mave Sewalong. It will be a short day and by the end we will have a finished skirt. Let’s get sewing.

Attach a safety pin securely to one end of the drawstring. Insert through one buttonhole and feed through the channel, pulling the safety pin out through the other buttonhole. Pull drawstring until ends are even.

Try on your skirt and check the length of your drawstrings. Trim if necessary.

There are a few ways to finish the ends of the drawstring.

You can finish it with aglets.

Or you can thread some beads on the drawstring and tie an end at the bottom. You can let the ends fray natrually over time. I thin that macrame beads are a great option for this because they generally have a larger hole.

Or just fold the drawstring ends and stitch them. To do this fold by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and press.

It can be hard to sew these small sections of fabric and I have found that by putting a piece of paper under your drawstrings when sewing, it really helps.

Try on your skirt to check length. Trim if necessary. Finish the hem of your main skirt by pressing the raw edge towards the wrong side at 1/4.” Turn it up again by 1/4.” Pin and press. Edgestitch along this folded line to secure.

If using a lining, the lining should be about 1/4″ shorter than the main skirt so it is not seen. Trim lining if necessary and hem in the same manner as the main skirt. Note: the main and lining hems should be facing one another.

You’re finished! I hope the Mave sewalong was helpful. Give the whole skirt a nice press and it’s ready to wear.