October 15, 2021

This week I sewed up the first two items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. I decided to start easy and begin with the two Rio Ringer T-shirts that were on the list.

For both of them, the plan was to use the crew neck / long sleeve hack that I did last year. You can find that blog post here which contains the tutorial. I won’t be going over the entire tutorial here since it is already in a blog post, but essentially I used the same fabric for the neckband as I did for the main shirt to create that crew neck look. For the long sleeves, I attached the Nikko sleeve to the Rio sleeve to add the long sleeve length.

Both of the fabrics were from my stash and unfortunately I don’t remember where I sourced them from. The light gray rib knit feels like a rayon or bamboo blend. It is lightweight and has a nice drape.

I was a bit worried that it would be too clingy in the end, but I actually love the result. It feels wonderful against the skin and very high end. I think this one will get so much wear as a layering piece. It feels like the perfect basic.

The striped knit feels a bit more synthetic to me. If I had to guess it is some sort of polyester blend which I normally avoid, but this stripe was too good to pass up. And, I actually think that the poly adds some structure to the rib knit that is quite nice.

I spent some time making sure that the stripes matched up, but other than that is was a super simple and fast sew. I love the retro feel to this one and think it’s going to pair so well with my Landers.

OK, that is it. These were fast sews which has me super excited to keep going on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe sewing next week.



October 8, 2021

It been a while since I have felt super excited about sewing anything but loungewear, but I am finally feeling the itch to sew “outside” clothes again. I decided to go big, so I put together a fall wardrobe plan for this year using only True Bias patterns.

Here are some of the rules I put together for myself as I planned out my capsule wardrobe.

1 – Only True Bias patterns (Hacks are OK) – Honestly, I can’t believe I have enough patterns to do a capsule wardrobe with them. This feels a bit like a milestone to me, but I digress. To get more mileage out of each pattern I am allowing hacks. Most of these hacks you will be able to find on my blog and I will link to all of them in case you want to do a similar look for yourself.

2 – Tight Color Palette With Mostly Solids – Keeping a really small color palette will let me mix and match these items the most. I landed on a fall color palette with rust, camel, gray, black and ivory as the main colors. Luckily these are the colors I already like to wear so it was not a hard choice. I am allowing a few prints in the mix to keep it interesting. I tried to keep them pretty tame though so they can go with as many things as possible.

3 – No Skirts or Dresses – I went back and forth on this one, but decided not to include skirts and dresses to keep the capsule very everyday wearable. I wear a lot of skirts and dresses in the warmer months, but Colorado gets cold fast and I just tend to avoid them this time of year. Also, with Covid still in our lives, I’m not doing a lot of going out so they just seemed unnecessary. With patterns like the Roscoe and Nikko that include dresses, I opted for the top version of those patterns.

4 – 13 Sewn Items Total – It was hard to narrow down, but 13 sewn items seemed like the right balance of enough items to have lots to mix and match and a small enough number that I could reasonably sew them all over the next few months. Keep in mind, that since these are all my patterns, I have sewn them many times and will not need to do any muslining. Whenever there is a pattern that I am sewing multiples of, I will batch sew them. These two facts make it much easier for me to sew this many items in just a few months. Also keep in mind that I am not including undergarments or any kinds of accessories in my total.


Nikko Top (2)

  • black and white stripe ribbing – I’m thinking about cropping this one to just around the waist so there is not as much to tuck in, but otherwise it will be sewn straight from the envelope.
  • black knit – Last year I sewed up the Nikko using a square neck hack and I love it. This year I want to do the same thing but with a scoop instead of the square neck. I also want to scoop the back for a ballerina type look.

Roscoe Blouse (2)

  • rust cotton lawn – I will be sewing both of these blouses using the button front hack tutorial by Tessuti which you can find here.
  • ivory rayon crepe – I think this will be such a great basic. I will be using the button front Tessuti tutorial for this one too.

Rio Ringer T-shirt (2)

  • retro stripe ribbing – This will be sewn up using my long sleeve crew Rio hack from my blog which you can find here. I love this retro stripe and think it will be a big hitter in my wardrobe.
  • light gray ribbing – I decided I needed another basic layering piece and this light gray seemed to fit the bill. I will be using the crew long sleeve hack again for this one.

Marlo Sweater (2)

  • black sweater knit – I think this black Marlo is going to get so much wear. I will sew up the longer view of the pattern for this one.
  • rust sweater knit and ribbing – This really is the perfect color and can’t wait to wear this one. I will sew up the shorter version of the pattern for this color.


Lander Pant (2)

  • denim – I’ve been needing a classic pair of Landers for awhile. The plan is to sew this one straight from the envelope with buttons, patch pockets and all.
  • plaid suiting – I’m obsessed with the plaid 70s look and think it will be great for Landers. Since this fabric is closer to 7oz I am going to use the zipper expansion and omit the pockets for a cleaner look (and no plaid pattern matching). I also have some lining I can add if I think it needs more structure.

Dani Pant (2)

  • camel corduroy – I’ve been wanting a more weather appropriate pair of Danis since I drafted this pattern and think that a lightweight corduroy is perfect. The corduroy has a thin 21 whale and is only about 4oz (more of a shirting weight) so I don’t think it will be too bulky around the gathered waistline. At least that is what I am hoping.
  • plaid suiting – I am so excited about these plaid Danis. I am going to add belt loops to this pair so that I wear a belt with it for a bit more dressed up look.

Hudson Pant (1)

  • black sweater knit – This faux cashmere sweater knit has such a beautiful feel to it. I immediately thought it would make a luxurious pair of Hudsons. I’ve never used a sweater knit for the Hudsons before, but think it will make it feel a bit more upscale which I am excited about. I think this will be fun to style too.

OK, that is it. I’m not sure exactly how long it will take me to sew these all up, but I expect 2-3 months. I will be sharing all of my final makes here and will be documenting the process on instagram. Once done, I will mix and match all of the items to make as many outfits as possible and will show them all to you here. Can’t wait to get sewing!



September 23, 2021

It’s the last day of the Dani Sewalong, which means we are going to finish the waistband for Views A and B, including buttons and buttonholes. We will also be hemming and adding the cuff to all views. Let’s get started.

Using the guide on you left front waistband pattern piece, mark, sew and open your buttonholes.

With your fly lined up, mark your button placement through your buttonholes. The marking should be on the inside (closest to center front) edge of the buttonhole and not in the middle. Sew on buttons.

Finish the raw edge of the bottom of your short / pant in your desired manner.

Turn the garment inside out and press the hem up by 1 and 3/4″. Stitch close to the turned up edge.

Turn the garment right side out. Fold up the bottom hem by 1″ towards the right side to create cuff. The top of the cuff should cover the stitching by about 1/4″. Press.

Stitch in the ditch for about 1/4″ at the side and inner leg seams to secure cuff.

That’s it! Give your Dani’s a good press and wear them proudly.



September 23, 2021

Welcome back for day 4 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we will be working with just Views A and B. We will be finishing up the sides and waistband for these views. By the end of today it will just be a few details left.

With the front and back right sides touching, match up and pin along the side seams and pockets. Be extra careful that the inseam pocket seamline for the front and back as well as dots line up. Pin generously.

Starting at the upper edge of the short / pant on one side, stitch down to the first dot using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Backstitch. Start again at the second dot, backstitch and stitch down to the hem using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Note that this new stitch line is 1/8″ in from the seam attaching to the inseam pocket. This allows the pocket to stay hidden inside of the side of the shorts / pants.

Stitch around the outside of the pocket, starting at the top outside edge and ending at the side seam stitchline and backstitching. Repeat previous two steps for other side and pocket.

Press pockets and seam allowances towards the front short / pant. Baste along the top edge at 3/8″ to temporarily secure it in place.

If you haven’t already, fuse interfacing to the wrong sides of the left and right front waistbands.

With right sides touching, pin the back waistband to the left and right fronts, matching notches. Stitch. It should look like the image below when done. Be very aware of your right and left sides, top and bottom.

Flip over. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and press open. Fold down the top edge towards the wrong side by 3/8″ Press.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top of your short / pant.

The inside edges will overlap the center front and fly shield of the short / pant by 1/2″. Match waistband notches to center back seam and side seams. Match waistband seams to notches on front short / pant.

Sew at the normal 1/2″ seam allowance.

Grade seams by trimming the one closest to the outside to 3/8″ and the inner one to 1/4″.

Press waistband and seam allowances up.

Take the folded edge of the waistband and fold it to the outside with right sides touching. Overlap the folded edge past the waistband seam by about 1/16″. Pin.

Stitch the center front edge at 1/2″ seam allowance so that the line of stitching is flush with the finished edge of the fly.

Repeat for right side. Clip corners and grade seam allowance as shown.

Turn the waistband right side out. On the inside, make sure the folded lower edge of the waistband self facing covers the seamline by about 1/16″. Pin in place. Press the waistband so you get a nice squared edge at each center front corner. Zip up the zipper and check to make sure the upper edges of the right and left seams align.

On the outside, stitch in the ditch by carefully sewing along the seamline, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the short / pant. You will be sewing from one seam line, around the back, to the other as shown below, leaving the front portion open. Backstitch at each end.

Starting and stopping at the waistband seams as shown below, stitch 1/4″ from the top folded edge. Backstitch at both ends. This creates the small paperbag affect on the waistband.

Cut a length of elastic according to the elastic cut chart on page 2. Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through. You will only be inserting it through the back portion of the waistband, starting and stopping at the seamlines. Be careful not to let the back and of the elastic slip into the waistband where you can’t access it.

Adjust your elastic so that it overlaps the seamline by about 1/2″ on each side. Pin securely. This is a good time to try on your short / pant to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

With the short / pant unzipped, stitch in the ditch along each vertical seamline where the back and front waistbands meet. Stitch through all layers, securing the elastic as you sew and backstitching at the ends.

Also stitch in the ditch along the bottom portion of the left and right front waistband pieces, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the short / pant and completely enclosing the waistband at the same time. Backstitch at each end.

Evenly distribute gathers around the back waistband. Press and pin. If you havn’t done so already, mark your stitch lines. You have already sewn the top stitchline, so just mark the bottom two.

With an elongated stretch stitch (zigzag stitch with 3mm length and .5mm width), start at one end of the back waistband and stitch through all layers along each stitch line at the the other end of the back waistband, backstitching to secure.

That is all for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish the Dani’s. up.



September 22, 2021

It’s day 3 of the Dani Sewalong. Today is only for Views A and B as we will focusing on just the zip fly insertion. Make sure that you have your zipper ready to go. I prefer the lightweight, plastic zippers for the Dani, but you can also use the metal zipper if you like. If using the length of zipper suggested for your size, you should not need to shorten your zipper.

With the two fronts sitting wrong side up, make sure that your cut line for the right front extention is already marked. If not, use the pattern piece to do so or mark in 3/4″ from the edge. Trim the right extention.

Apply the left fly fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the left front only, as shown below, lining it up with the center front notch and dot.

With right sides touching, pin one front to its coordinating back at the inner leg seam.

Stitch. Finish seam allowances and press open or towards one side.

Finish the seam allowances of each crotch seam separately. Start at the back and continue around the crotch curve, all the way around the front extensions. This can be a little tricky around the fly extension curves and angles. Don’t worry, as these will be covered with the fly shield.

Fold back 1/2″ on the right front extension, so it’s even with the raw edge below, and press to create a guide line. Open back up.

Fold back the left front along the edge of the fusible interfacing (lining up with the center front notch and dot), and press to create a guide line. Open back up.

Open up each leg along the inner seam. With right sides touching, lay one leg on top of the other, matching up the side seams and notches. Be extra careful to line up the dots at the crotch seam. Pin.

Stitch crotch seam from center back to the center front dot and backstitch.

Position your short/pant so that the left front is facing up, and the right front is falling down and out of the way. Place your zipper face down so that the right edge (when facing down) of the zipper teeth is 1/2″ from the fold you created as a guide line. Depending on your zipper, this may be against or slightly inside the guide line. If you use a plastic zipper like me, it will be about 1/8″ in from the crease like shown below. The top edge is flush with the top raw edge of the short / pant. Pin.

Using a zipper foot, stitch along the left side of the zipper teeth as pictured, backstitching at the lower end to secure. Because the zipper pull is a bit bulky, you will not be able to sew completely straight at the top. Don’t worry about this- this line of stitching is not visible on the outside of the garment. If you force this line of stitching to be straight, it will push the zipper pull over and will therefore not stay hidden once the short / pant is finished. Remove pins along the zipper.

Turn the left fly extension to the inside of the short/pant along the foldline that you pressed earlier. Pin in place.

Unzip your zipper. With the short / pant facing up, place the folded right front edge against the edge of the zipper tape, aligning the fold with the zipper teeth. Pin in place.

Using a zipper foot, baste close to the folded edge to secure the zipper to the right front. Midway through stitching, leave the needle down and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible. Zip up the fly to make sure that everything is lying flat, and that the zipper is tucked neatly into the left side of the short / pant. Press the whole center front seam allowance towards the front left (when wearing) short / pant.

Align the topstitching guide (pattern piece 15) with the left front opening edge, as pictured. Using the paper pattern piece as your guide, mark the left fly stitching line on the outside of the short / pant.

Make sure that the seam allowances are still pressed towards the left front. Topstitch the fly through all layers along the marked line.

Fold the fly shield in half with right sides touching. Stitch the short angled end, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim. Turn fly shield right side out and press. Finish the inner long edge of the fly shield with either a zig-zag stitch or a serger.

With the short / pant facing up and the zipper open, place the fly shield under the right front opening edge. The finished edge of the fly shield should slightly cover the right zipper tape. The fly shield should extend past the zipper teeth by 1 and 1/4″. This is important or the waistband will not fit correctly. Pin in place.

Using a zipper foot, topstitch the right front, on top of the line of previous basting, through all layers, catching the fly shield in the line of stitching. Keep the left front free as you sew. In order to sew close to the fold, midway through stitching leave the needle down, and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible, and backstitch. Remove basting stitches if visible.

Zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up.

Optional: zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up. to secure the fly, sew a small (about 1/2″ long) bar tack through all layers (including fly shield) at the bottom of the inner curved stitching line, as pictured.

This is what it should look like on the right side.

This is what it should look like on the wrong side.

That is it for today. Come back tomorrow where we will finish the sides and waistband for Views A and B.