SEWALONG SEWING

DANI FABRIC AND NOTIONS

September 14, 2021

Thank you so much for the enthusiastic response to the Dani short and pant sewing pattern. Today I wanted to go over the fabric and notions recommended for this pattern to give you the best results possible for your Dani.

The main fabric for the Dani should be a medium weight nonstretch woven. All of my samples were sewn up in linen / rayon blends, the two below are brussels washer linen, but you could also use cottons, twills, wool and any other medium weight fabric that will give you a nice crisp press. I would avoid polyester or any other fabrics that won’t press well due to the cuff at the bottom.

You will also want to source 1/3 yd of fabric for the pockets. I prefer a lightweight woven like cotton lawn or cotton voile so that it doesn’t add any bulk, but you can also use rayon challis or rayon bemberg. Quilting cotton is a bit on the heavier side for the pockets, but could be used in a pinch.

You will also want some lightweight fusible interfacing. My favorite is tricot, but any lightweight fusible will do.

All views will need a coordinating all purpose thread, 2 inch wide elastic, a safety pin for inserting your elastic, and a fresh needle for your sewing machine.

For Views A and B you will also need few other notions. You will need a zipper. Make sure to check your pattern to see what size zipper to buy. You shouldn’t have to shorten your zipper if you buy the recommended length. I recommend the basic plastic zipper and not the metal one. Metal zippers are best for jeans and I have found that they are a little heavy for a lighter weight garment. It’s best to find a zipper that coordinates with your fabric, but it should not be visible on the finished garment so don’t worry too much about that.

Views A and B also have two 5/8″ buttons to complete the waistband / zip fly. This is a really fun way to add interest if you can find some fun buttons. Although honestly, I usually just go with the classic tortoise shell ones. You can choose to source smaller or larger buttons if you want, just make sure that you adjust the buttonholes to match.

That should be it. Let me know if you have any questions. We will have our whole sewalong for the Dani on the blog next week.

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE DANI SHORT & PANT

September 8, 2021

I am so excited to be introducing our newest pattern to you, the Dani short and pant. That Dani has an elastic waist, inseam and rear pockets, a small paperbag waist, and a cuff.

Views A and C are shorts with an approximate 3 inch inseam, while views B and D are pants with an approximate 27.5″ inseam.

Views A and B use a zip fly construction with two small buttons at the waist. These views are a bit more difficult and are best sewn up by the intermediate sewist.

Views C and D use a simple pull on, full elastic waist construction that is perfect for the beginner sewist or as a way to check fit before moving on to the fly option.

We will be going over fabric and notions more thoroughly in a future post, but for now, just know that this pattern is perfect for medium weight non stretch wovens. All of our samples are sewn up in linen rayon blends, but we also think that cottons and twills would work great. Just avoid any wovens that are too thick or rigid as they will create a lot of extra bulk at the gathered waistline.

The Dani is currently offered in PDF only (although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-32. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We will have a full sewalong in a couple of weeks if you would like help sewing it up. In the meantime, you can purchase the Dani here on sale through Sunday, Sept. 19th (no code needed).

DIY SEWING TUTORIALS

CURVED HEM MAVE HACK TUTORIAL

August 27, 2021

Apparently I can’t get enough of the Mave skirt, because I am back today with another hack for you. Today I will show you how to simply adjust the pattern for a curved hem look instead of the straight hem it comes drafted as.

You will need pattern piece 1 – (front and back). No other pattern pieces will be changed and you won’t be using any of the ruffles for this hack.

First, decide were you want the top of your curve to end at the side seams. This is essentially the top of your slit. I decided I wanted it to end about an inch below the mini cut line. Make a dot marking at this spot, 1/2″ in from the cut edge so it lands on the stitch line.

Next, decide how long you want the skirt in the front and back and make a horizontal line to mark this at center front / back. I decided this would look better if it hit a bit shorter than maxi so my marking is a few inches up from the bottom.

Now it’s time to free hand. Connect the bottom horizontal line to the side seam in a big, softly curving line. The top of the curved line should intersect the side seam just before the dot (which is on the stitch line).

Trim your new hem line.

Cut out your pattern pieces and start to assemble and sew your Mave skirt according the directions, except for the following changes made to the side seam and hem.

First, when you are finishing the side seam alllowances, stop the finishing at the dot. Sew your side seams down to the dot and back stitch to secure.

Finish the hems of both the front and back by first folding in by 1/4″ and pressing and then folding again at 1/4″ and pressing. Pin. Note that the seam allowances above the dot are both pressed towards the front as written in the instructions. At and below the dot, press seam allowances open to accommodate the hem as shown below.

Stitch the hem close to the inside folded edge. When you get to the dot, leave your needle down, pivot, stitch across just above dot, leave your needle, pivot, and stitch back around the other side or your hem. This will keep everything nice and flat and secure.

Give everything a good press and you are done.

SEWING TUTORIALS

ANCHORED POCKET TUTORIAL USING THE MAVE SKIRT

August 11, 2021

Today I am going to teach you how to take a normal inseam hanging pocket pattern and turn it into an anchored pocket. This keeps the pocket from flopping around or turning to the back. This works for any pattern with an inseam pocket and waistband. I am going to be using the Mave skirt for this tutorial, but I also recommend you trying it out on the Southport dress pattern as well. The anchored pocket works best when you are using lightweight fabrics. If your fabrics are heavier you may find that it adds to much bulk to your waistline.

Start with your main front pattern piece and trace the top corner on a piece of paper.

Place the pocket on top of your tracing, matching up markings for placement and trace the pocket side and bottom curved edge. Then, connect the pocket straight up to the top of the skirt tracing like you see below.

This is what your new pocket should look like.

Cut out 4 pocket pieces (2 pairs).

Sew up your pattern according to the instructions, except treat the top of your pockets like the top of the skirt.

Before attaching the waistband, sew your pockets along the top edge to the front skirt. Then finish sewing the skirt like normal.

That’s it. Very simple hack that keeps your pockets anchored towards the front.

SEWING TUTORIALS

FRONT SLIT / SLIP DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 30, 2021

We are back with the fourth and final Ogden hack as part of this year’s Ogden Month. I am obsessed with how simple and elegant this hack turned out. It also ended up being the easiest hack of all four. If you have sewn up the Ogden cami pattern before, this will be a very easy hack for you to pull off.

You will need all of your Ogden pattern pieces for this hack, but we will be altering the front and back pieces. Let’s start with the front.

Get a large piece of paper and draw long line down it to be the new CF line. Tape your front pattern piece up against the new CF line. Add 1/2″ to the CF line as the seam allowance since there will now be a seam down center front. You will need to make your best guess for how long you want your Ogden to be. I ended up making mine about 45″ in total length from the CF V to the hem. I am 5’3″ and this worked will for me. I suggest holding up a measuring tape and giving it your best guess. It’s always better to go longer than shorter. Make a dot where you think you want the top of your slit to end (go shorter on this knowing you can always sew down longer after trying it on.).

Draw a line straight out to the left at 90 degrees from CF to be your new hem line.

Now you need to draw the new side seam. I like to start at the chest and shave off some of the side seam around the hip. For me about 1.5″ is right but I recommend being conservative knowing you can always take in more later is you want. You want at least 4 inches of ease around your hips in the end. Once you hit the hips, draw straight down to connect to the hem.

For the back, do the same thing for the CB and hem except the back is on the fold (no need to add the 1/2″ seam allowance to CB). Use the front pattern side seam by flipping it over and copying it to your back pattern piece so that they match. Add notches to make it easier to sew up.

Cut out all of your pattern pieces as follows:

  • Front – cut 2 (1 pair)
  • Back – cut 1 on fold
  • Front Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Back Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Straps – cut 2 fabric and 2 interfacing

You may notice that I suggest interfacing your straps. Because of the extra weight caused by the dress length, as opposed to the cami length, I have found that interfacing your straps prevents them from stretching out with wear.

Finish the seam allowances of Center Front of each of your Front pieces. Sew them together at 1/2″ seam allowance from the top down to the slit marking and backstitch. Press seam allowances open above slit marking.

Now that the Front is sewn up it will act as one piece and you can sew up the top of your Ogden just like the instructions indicate.

Now for the slit. This is a good time to try on your Ogden and make sure you don’t want to adjust the sideseams or the slit length. Make those changes now if necessary.

Press your slit seam allowances back by 1/2″ on both sides below the slit marking.

Starsting at the bottom, stitch up one side at 3/8″. Stitch across just above the slit marking, and then sew back down the other side at 3/8″.

Finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress – I serged mine. You can also fold the raw edge in by 1/4″ if you want. Fold up by 1/2″ and press and pin. Stitch close too the edge to complete your hem.

And that is it! I just love the way that it turned out. Such an easy and simple Ogden hack. I hope you enjoyed it.