SEWALONG

MAVE FABRIC & NOTIONS

April 22, 2021

With the Mave Skirt Sewalong starting next week, I wanted to go over the suggested fabrics and notions you will need to gather so you will be ready to get sewing on Monday.

MAIN FABRICS

The Mave can be sewn up in a variety of woven fabrics depending on the style you are going for. Keep in mind that it requires wide fabrics so avoid the 45″ choices.

A more structured fabric like linen or cotton is going to hold it’s shape and have more poof, standing away from the body a bit more. A thinner, more drapey fabric will have the opposite affect. It will fall closer to body and have more of the swish factor. Both are great choices, it just depends on what you are going for.

Another thing to to consider when choosing a fabric is whether or not not you are sewing a lining. A lining always feels a bit more upscale in my opinion, and is great for sheer fabrics, but it will also add a bit more structure to the gathers and fullness of the skirt. So keep that in mind when you are deciding whether or not to add a lining.

RAYON

Let’s start with the fabric I sew with the most – rayon. All of the samples I sewed for the photoshoots were rayon crepe. I think that rayon challis is a very similar choice. Both fabrics have a nice drape, and weight, are very easy to press and sew, and have an expensive look while being easy to care for. The downside to rayon is that it can be a bit tricky to cut. It has a tendency to be a bit shifty on the cutting table. Here are few rayon fabrics that would work great fort he Mave.

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LINEN

Linen is another great choice for the Mave skirt. Whether 100% linen or a linen / rayon blend, linen is wonderful to wear and sew with. It’s easy to cut, and sew and is super breathable in the hotter months. Linen is generally a bit more structured so it will hold its shape more and stand out from the body more than a rayon. The biggest downside of linen is that it wrinkles super easily. I don’t find that to be as big of an issue with a skirt as pants or a top, but if you are someone who hates wrinkles, beware. Here are some great linens and linen blends you might like.

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COTTONS

Cottons are always a great place to start and are very beginner friendly and easy to find. I generally suggest avoiding quilting cottons and instead heading to the cotton lawn or cotton voile section. These fabrics are much thinner and softer and nicer to wear. They will look more ready-to-wear and less home made than a quilting cotton. Because these fabrics are often sheer you will want to consider adding the optional lining to this one.

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SILK / CHIFFON / GEORGETTE

Silk is a great option if you want a fancy Mave skirt. I am a big fan of silk crepe de chine and think it would make a beautiful skirt. I would suggest adding a lining if you are using silk just because it’s higher end and higher price point fabric. It also has a tendency to attract static in my experience so a lining would help that. A couple other fancyish fabrics I want to talk about are chiffon and georgette. Both of these fabrics are sheer and are a wonderful choice layered over a lining. It reminds me of the skirt that inspired the Mave – a layered and crinkly broomstick style skirt from my youth. Chiffon and georgette can be tricky to work with depending on it’s substrate, so I generally recommend it to intermediate or advanced sewists.

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LINING FABRICS

If you choose to add the optional lining to the Mave skirt, you will need to choose the fabric you will be using for the lining. Any of the non sheer fabrics above can work for the lining. I suggest finding something on the thinner side so you are not adding bulk to the gathered waistline. I have found that cotton voile, cotton lawn, and rayon challis are my favorites when it comes to a lining. Just make sure it is at least 54″ wide.

NOTIONS

You are also going to need a few notions for the Mave skirt. The required notions are:

  • matching all purpose thread
  • 2 inch wide elastic
  • 1″x3″ scrap of fusible interfacing (light to medium weight)
  • sewing machine needle (match it to the weight and type of fabric you are sewing with)
  • safety pin to thread your elastic and drawstring

An optional additional notion is something to finish the ends of your drawstring with. You can simple fold and sew them if you like. Or, you can add aglets or beads to the ends for a fun look.

Aglets are metal or plastic ends that you would find at the bottom of shoelaces or jacket cords. If you want to add aglets to your Mave, I suggest finding small and light weight ones. Above is a photo of a few that I have found on etsy.

Another option is beads strung on your drawstring with a large knot at the end. Make sure that you purchase beads with a wide enough hole to fit the drawstring thru. I have found that macrame beads are usually good. I found the above brass beads on etsy, but I also think that wood or glass beads would be cool too.

OK, I think that is it for fabric and notions. I can’t wait to get started sewing on the Mave Skirt on Monday. Let me know if you have any questions.

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE MAVE SKIRT SEWING PATTERN!

April 14, 2021

I am so excited to be sharing our spring pattern, the Mave Skirt, with you. The Mave is an elastic waist skirt with a drawstring, inseam pockets and an optional lining. The skirt can be made with or without ruffles and in different lengths to create numerous options including mini, midi and maxi lengths depending on your preference.

The Mave may be our most beginner friendly pattern to date. We will be doing a full sewalong in a couple of weeks too, so even the most newbie sewist should be able to handle it.

The Mave skirt currently is offered in PDF only (Although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-30. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We like light to medium weight fabrics for this pattern. This could include rayon challis, linen, voile, lawn, chiffon and georgette to name a few. If your fabric is on the sheer side we recommend sewing up the optional lining. We will be talking more about fabrics and notions next week as we prepare for the sewalong so be sure to check back for that information.

One of our favorite things about the Mave skirt is that we used options instead of views. This means that there are tons of different versions of this skirt you can sew up by cutting at different lines on the pattern pieces or lengthening, shortening or simply omitting the ruffles. The instructions clearly show you where and what to cut for each option. It gives a lot of versatility to an otherwise simple pattern.

If you would like to purchase the Mave Skirt sewing pattern, you can do so here in my shop. Use the code MAVESKIRT for 20% off of the pattern through Friday, April 23rd.

SEWING TUTORIALS

MINI SALIDA SKIRT HACK

February 25, 2021

Today on the blog I am going to show you have to very easily hack the Salida Skirt pattern to be a mini skirt. I am not much of a mini skirt person in the summer, but I do love how it looks over tights with boots in the colder months. I especially like it paired with the Nikko Top or Marlo Sweater like I did in these styled photos.

For the fabric I used a medium black washed denim with just a bit of stretch from my stash. I love a black skirt and like that the washed denim gave it a bit more of a worn in feel.

We are going to be using View A as the base and making just a few changes to the pattern including removing the back slit. First grab your back center pattern piece for View A.

Decide how much length you want to take off. It must be enough length that the slit is no longer necessary. I decided to take about 5 inches of length off which calculated to about 3 inches down from the slit dot on the center back pattern piece once you take the hem allowance into account.

Mark the new cut length.

Draw the new cut line all of the way across.

Draw another line straight down from the back seam to eliminate the slit extension.

Trim your back center pattern piece.

Trim the same amount of length off of the other front and back pattern pieces.

Now we just need to adjust the hem area of the front and back side pieces since the area that we shortened to is at an angle. We need to make sure that the new hem line has enough width to be folded up to where it’s being hemmed to. The front and back center pattern pieces are straight in that area so they do not need to be adjusted.

Tape some paper at the hem of the side pattern piece.

Fold up by 1/4″ and then again by 3/4″.

Trim along the angled side seam.

Unfold.

Repeat for other side pattern piece.

That’s it for adjustments. Go ahead and sew up you Salida skirt according to the instructions. Skip over the parts where it talks about the back slit.

When it gets to the hem, fold up by 1/4″ and then again at 3/4″. Finish by sewing close to fold.

All done! I love my new mini Salida Skirt. I want to make another one in blue denim and maybe some colors. This is definitely something that was missing from my wardrobe.

SEWING TUTORIALS

MARLO SWEATER VEST HACK

February 11, 2021

I have a super fun and easy hack for you today. I am going to show you how to use the Marlo pattern to create a sweater vest. I am using the long version of the pattern, but this would also look great with View A – the cropped sweater view.

Begin by cutting out all of your pattern pieces except for the sleeve and sleeve band.

Grab one of your front sweater pieces. First we are going to take some of the width off of the shoulder. I decided to take off 1.5″ for mine, but you could take off more or less depending on how dropped you want the shoulder to be. From the new shoulder point, make a gradual line down to meet the underarm. Cut along the the line you made. Repeat for other front.

Do the same thing to your back Marlo piece.

Now, measure your new front and back armholes.

We will use my numbers as reference, but know that your numbers may be very different than mine.

Front armhole (FA) = 10in

Back armhole (BA) = 10.25″

FA (10) + BA (10.25) = 20.25″ – Shoulder Seam Allowances (.75″) = 19.5″

Now that we know the armhole measurement, we are going to calculate it at 80% (to accomodate 20% stretch)

19.5″ x .8 = 15.6″ = armhole band measurement.

Now cut two pieces of fabric that are the armhole band measurement x 4″. The stretch of the fabric should be along the width or 15.6″ measurement for mine.

Fold each band in half widthwise and sew into a tube.

With wrong sides touching, fold the tube up lengthwise in the middle like the following photo. Press and steam.

Sew up the shoulder seams and sides seams of your Marlo.

Align the seam of the band with the underarm seam of your Marlo. Stretch to fit the band along the rest of the armhole.

Sew the seam, stretching the band as you go. Press seam allowances towards sweater and the band out and away from the sweater.

Sew up the rest of the Marlo according to the instructions.

I love my Marlo Sweater turned Sweater Vest so much! Such a simple hack, yet a completely different look. I think I will be layering this over my Nikko top a lot this winter.

SEWING

TRANSITIONAL SHELBY

February 4, 2021

I decided to sew up a long version of the Shelby dress to layer in fall / winter and still get to wear in spring / summer. Most of the Shelbys in my closet are the short versions so I figured it was about time to give it a go.

For the fabric, I wanted something very 90s. I finally settled on this rayon crepe with a dark background and ditsy print. I love that it has that Laura Ashley vibe that I remember my mom wearing years ago. I bought it from Cloth Story Fabrics and it’s beautiful. Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with. It has such a nice drape and weight to it.

I like styling this dress with my Doc Martens and leather jacket for now. This is how I wore it for a stay-at-home date with my husband. It was nice to get dressed up even though it’s not necessary these days due to Covid. I always feel better though when I put on real clothes.

I am excited to style this again come spring. I am thinking I will keep it simple with sandals. Pretty sure this will get a lot of wear year round.