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OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

CURVED HEM MAVE HACK TUTORIAL

August 27, 2021

Apparently I can’t get enough of the Mave skirt, because I am back today with another hack for you. Today I will show you how to simply adjust the pattern for a curved hem look instead of the straight hem it comes drafted as.

You will need pattern piece 1 – (front and back). No other pattern pieces will be changed and you won’t be using any of the ruffles for this hack.

First, decide were you want the top of your curve to end at the side seams. This is essentially the top of your slit. I decided I wanted it to end about an inch below the mini cut line. Make a dot marking at this spot, 1/2″ in from the cut edge so it lands on the stitch line.

Next, decide how long you want the skirt in the front and back and make a horizontal line to mark this at center front / back. I decided this would look better if it hit a bit shorter than maxi so my marking is a few inches up from the bottom.

Now it’s time to free hand. Connect the bottom horizontal line to the side seam in a big, softly curving line. The top of the curved line should intersect the side seam just before the dot (which is on the stitch line).

Trim your new hem line.

Cut out your pattern pieces and start to assemble and sew your Mave skirt according the directions, except for the following changes made to the side seam and hem.

First, when you are finishing the side seam alllowances, stop the finishing at the dot. Sew your side seams down to the dot and back stitch to secure.

Finish the hems of both the front and back by first folding in by 1/4″ and pressing and then folding again at 1/4″ and pressing. Pin. Note that the seam allowances above the dot are both pressed towards the front as written in the instructions. At and below the dot, press seam allowances open to accommodate the hem as shown below.

Stitch the hem close to the inside folded edge. When you get to the dot, leave your needle down, pivot, stitch across just above dot, leave your needle, pivot, and stitch back around the other side or your hem. This will keep everything nice and flat and secure.

Give everything a good press and you are done.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

ANCHORED POCKET TUTORIAL USING THE MAVE SKIRT

August 11, 2021

Today I am going to teach you how to take a normal inseam hanging pocket pattern and turn it into an anchored pocket. This keeps the pocket from flopping around or turning to the back. This works for any pattern with an inseam pocket and waistband. I am going to be using the Mave skirt for this tutorial, but I also recommend you trying it out on the Southport dress pattern as well. The anchored pocket works best when you are using lightweight fabrics. If your fabrics are heavier you may find that it adds to much bulk to your waistline.

Start with your main front pattern piece and trace the top corner on a piece of paper.

Place the pocket on top of your tracing, matching up markings for placement and trace the pocket side and bottom curved edge. Then, connect the pocket straight up to the top of the skirt tracing like you see below.

This is what your new pocket should look like.

Cut out 4 pocket pieces (2 pairs).

Sew up your pattern according to the instructions, except treat the top of your pockets like the top of the skirt.

Before attaching the waistband, sew your pockets along the top edge to the front skirt. Then finish sewing the skirt like normal.

That’s it. Very simple hack that keeps your pockets anchored towards the front.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

FRONT SLIT / SLIP DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 30, 2021

We are back with the fourth and final Ogden hack as part of this year’s Ogden Month. I am obsessed with how simple and elegant this hack turned out. It also ended up being the easiest hack of all four. If you have sewn up the Ogden cami pattern before, this will be a very easy hack for you to pull off.

You will need all of your Ogden pattern pieces for this hack, but we will be altering the front and back pieces. Let’s start with the front.

Get a large piece of paper and draw long line down it to be the new CF line. Tape your front pattern piece up against the new CF line. Add 1/2″ to the CF line as the seam allowance since there will now be a seam down center front. You will need to make your best guess for how long you want your Ogden to be. I ended up making mine about 45″ in total length from the CF V to the hem. I am 5’3″ and this worked will for me. I suggest holding up a measuring tape and giving it your best guess. It’s always better to go longer than shorter. Make a dot where you think you want the top of your slit to end (go shorter on this knowing you can always sew down longer after trying it on.).

Draw a line straight out to the left at 90 degrees from CF to be your new hem line.

Now you need to draw the new side seam. I like to start at the chest and shave off some of the side seam around the hip. For me about 1.5″ is right but I recommend being conservative knowing you can always take in more later is you want. You want at least 4 inches of ease around your hips in the end. Once you hit the hips, draw straight down to connect to the hem.

For the back, do the same thing for the CB and hem except the back is on the fold (no need to add the 1/2″ seam allowance to CB). Use the front pattern side seam by flipping it over and copying it to your back pattern piece so that they match. Add notches to make it easier to sew up.

Cut out all of your pattern pieces as follows:

  • Front – cut 2 (1 pair)
  • Back – cut 1 on fold
  • Front Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Back Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Straps – cut 2 fabric and 2 interfacing

You may notice that I suggest interfacing your straps. Because of the extra weight caused by the dress length, as opposed to the cami length, I have found that interfacing your straps prevents them from stretching out with wear.

Finish the seam allowances of Center Front of each of your Front pieces. Sew them together at 1/2″ seam allowance from the top down to the slit marking and backstitch. Press seam allowances open above slit marking.

Now that the Front is sewn up it will act as one piece and you can sew up the top of your Ogden just like the instructions indicate.

Now for the slit. This is a good time to try on your Ogden and make sure you don’t want to adjust the sideseams or the slit length. Make those changes now if necessary.

Press your slit seam allowances back by 1/2″ on both sides below the slit marking.

Starsting at the bottom, stitch up one side at 3/8″. Stitch across just above the slit marking, and then sew back down the other side at 3/8″.

Finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress – I serged mine. You can also fold the raw edge in by 1/4″ if you want. Fold up by 1/2″ and press and pin. Stitch close too the edge to complete your hem.

And that is it! I just love the way that it turned out. Such an easy and simple Ogden hack. I hope you enjoyed it.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

TIE STRAP / ELASTIC WAIST OGDEN HACK

July 25, 2021

Welcome back to our third hack in the Ogden Month series. I am super excited about this one. Today I will show you how to make this tie shoulder / elastic waist blouse hack using the Ogden Cami pattern. Let’s get started.

You will need your front, back and strap pattern pieces for this hack. You will use the front and back to create the linings as well so don’t worry about the lining pattern pieces.

First let’s talk straps. Since the straps will be tied a the shoulder, we will need 4 instead of 2 of them. We will also need to lengthen them quite a bit. As a starting point I decided to make my straps 3 x their normal length. This was pretty close in the end.

Next, let’s work on the front. We want to shorten it since it will be ending at the natural waist instead of around the hip. I decided to take 3 inches off of the bottom as a starting point (we will take more off later once we try it on). Measure the 3″ up from the hem to keep the shape the same.

We also need to straighten out the sides since we no longer need the extra width for the hips. Starting around the bust area, I drew a line straight down to the bottom and trimmed it off like below.

Now, repeat everything that you did for the front to the back pattern piece.

Cut out

  • 2 fronts on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 2 backs on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 4 ties

Sew up your ties according to the instructions and set them aside.

Following the instructions for the Ogden cami, staystitch, sew each front to one back, and press. (You will have one main cami and one lining cami sewn up.)

On the main cami, pin one tie to each of the 4 strap points.

Following the Ogden instructions, sew the main and lining cami’s together, attaching all four straps at the same time.

Turn the Ogden right side out, understitch, and give it all a good press.

Now to figure out the elastic casing. I am using 3/4″ elastic for mine, but you can use whatever width you choose.

Put your Ogden on and tie the straps. Wrap your elastic around the natural waist (or wherever you want it to sit). Adjust your cami so that it has a small even amount of blousing above the elastic.

Using a marking tool, mark at the top of your elastic. It’s much easier to get a friend to help with marking the back.

Once marked, take off your cami. Make sure that the lining is laying flat underneath and fold along the center fornt and center back. Smooth out your markings like below (top marked line).

Measure and mark another line below the first to be your cut line. This one accounts for the extra amount needed for your elastic casing. The amount will be your elastic width x 2 + 1/4″ for space + 1/4″ press under. For me that looked like 3/4″ x 2 = 1.5″ + 1/4″ + 1/4″ = 2″.

Cut along the bottom line thru all layers.

Pull the main cami up and out of the way so you just have the lining extended. We are going to trim down the lining so it just tucks inside the casing by 1/4″.

So for me, I marked and trimmed off 1 3/4″ off of the lining.

Pull the main cami back down and make sure everything is flat and lining up. Turn it inside out. Press the main cami up by 1/4″ wrong sides touching.

Press it up again by 7/8″ (or your elastic width plus about 1/8″). It should cover the lining by about 1/4″. Press and pin generously.

Edgestitch the casing closed, leaving a small 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

Cut your elastic to a comfortable length (Don’t make it too tight or it will ride up when you are wearing it.).

Insert the elastic thru the casing.

Overlap the ends and stitch the elastic to secure it.

Sew up the opening in the casing.

Trim loose threads and give it a good press. You are done!

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

BUTTON FRONT MINI DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 17, 2021

We are back for the second week of Ogden Month and the second hack. Today we are going to use the Ogden cami pattern to create a short, button front dress. I’m loving how this hack turned out and can’t wait to show you how I created it.

As far as fabric goes you will need your main fabric (I am using a linen cotton blend), lightweight fusible interfacing, and about 6 5/8″ buttons.

For this hack you are going to need all of your pattern pieces. So go ahead and get those printed and ready to go.

Lets start with pattern piece 1 – the main front piece.

  • First, we need to lengthen it to a dress. I wanted mine to be a few inches above the knee and I am 5’3″. In the end I added 11 inches to the bottom and that was perfect for me (it includes a 2 inch hem). But depended on your height you may want to add more or less length.
  • Next we need to connect the side seam down to the new hem. You will free hand this, leaving a small curve for the hip. You will take more width out later once it’s sewn up and you try it on so dont be too worried about it. Just do you best as a starting point.
  • Since the Ogden is cut on the fold, we will add width for the button overlap (I will add 5/8″ for my 5/8″ buttons. This will give a little extra room around the buttons when they are centered at center front.) and also 1/2″ for the seam allowance at center front.

For the back, it is going to be cut on the fold so you do not need to worry about center back. Just extend that line straight down.

For the side seam and bottom of the back, flip the front onto the back and line up sides. Keep the grainlines the same so it stays balances and copy the side seam and bottom front the front to the back piece so they match. Super simple. Remember that you will be basting and adjusting the sides later.

Your front and back should look something like this.

Now for the linings which really are more like facings when we get done with them.

  • First copy the center front extention (5/8″ button extenttion plus 1/2″ seam allowance plus length of the dress.)
  • Next, Starting at the side seam, we are going to trim the facing so it’s about 2 21/2″ wide. Do not cut too close into the strap area. Keep the cut line a smooth curve. It should look something like this:

Do the same for he back facing.

In the end your facings should look like this:

Now cut out your pieces as follows:

  • 2 fronts main fabric
  • 1 back cut on fold main fabric
  • 2 straps main fabric
  • 2 front facings main fabric
  • 2 front facings interfacing
  • 1 back facing cut on fold main fabric
  • 1 back facing cut on fold interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to facings.

Sew up side seams of facings. Press seam allowances open. Finish the inside edge of your facing in your desired manner. I serged it.

Now sew up the main dress according to the instructions by sewing up the straps and staystitching.

With right sides touching, pin up side seams. Because we are going to be fitting the dress later, I recommend stitching the first few inches down (including finishing the seam allowance) and then basting the rest of the way to the hem. We will come back and finish the side seams after fitting them.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

With right sides touching, pin the facing to the main dress. Following the instructions for the Ogden, stitch, add in straps, trim and understitch.

The only difference is that at center front you want to stitch straight down to the hem and clip the corner seam allowance to avoid bulk.

Once it’s all turned out and pressed it should look like this:

Next, let’s address the side seam fit. Overlap the right side over the left by 1 1/4″ and pin. Try on the dress inside out and pin the side seams until you get the right fit. Trim excess and stitch the side seams accordingly. Finish seam allowances and press towards back.

Next up hem. Finish the bottom raw edge (I serged it).

With right sides touching, fold the facing back onto the main dress and pin.

Stitch the length of the facing at the height of your hem (I am sewing a 2″ hem).

Clip corners and turn right side out. This will give you a nice finish at the center front corners.

Continue to press up your hem all of the way around the dress. Pin and stitch from facing edge to facing edge.

Now we just need to add the buttons.

On the right front when wearing, mark button holes vertically down the front. The buttons holes should be at center front (5/8″ in from the folded edge) and start about 5/8″ down from the top. Sew on button holes and open them.

With the right side 1 1/4″ over of the left, mark button placement thru open buttonholes. The first button is at the top of the first buttonhole and the others are centered in the buttonholes.

Sew on buttons. Give it a good press and we are done!

I hope this Ogden hack was fun. Let me know if you have any questions.