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Marlo Sewalong Day 1

January 25, 2021

Welcome to Day 1 of the Marlo Sweater Sewalong. Please note that I will be using a regular sewing machine, but your may also use a serger for many of the steps.

Before you start sewing, I do recommend testing your stitches. Because of the oversized nature of the pattern and depending on your fabric choice, you may be able to get away with a straight stitch, or you may find that a stretch stitch is more suitable. I recommend taking a swatch of fabric and folding it in half to try out stitches. I would try a straight stitch, a stretch stitch setting on your machine (it looks like a lighting bolt), or an elongated zigzag stitch which is my favorite. For an elongated zigzag stitch I put my settings at .5mm wide and 2.5mm long, but your should test on your fabric and machine and adjust as necessary.

Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches from your pattern pieces to your fabric. I usually just do a small 1/4″ snip, but if your fabric is a loose weave you may not be able to see the snip. In this case I would use a marking tool such as chalk to mark each notch.

With right sides touching, pin Neck Band sections together at the center back (The short end with the double notches marks center back). Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward one side.

With wrong sides touching, fold Neck Band in half lengthwise. Press.

Open Neck Band back up. Apply fusible interfacing to the bottom neckband edges on the wrong side to stabilize the button/buttonhole area. The fusible interfacing should be placed 3/8″ from the bottom and right outside edges, aligning with the center fold you pressed, as pictured.

Set Neck Band aside for now.


Now we are going to prep and attached the pockets for View B. To stabilize the pocket opening, apply fusible pocket interfacing to the wrong side of the Pocket, placing interfacing 1/4″ down from upper raw edge, as pictured.

With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of the Pocket down by 1/4″ and press.

Flip over so the right side of the pocket is up. With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pocket at the notches. Pin.

Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 3/8″ seam allowance. Clip corners.

Turn the upper corners of the Pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Pin in place.

Starting just before the fold, bast the pocket sides and around the curved lower edges, leaving a long tail of thread free at both ends of stitching. Place this row of basting stitches a scant 3/8″ from the raw edge.

Using the thread tails at either end of basting, pull gently as you slightly gather the lower curved edges of the Pocket. This will help you to neatly turn in the 3/8″ seam allowance all around the side and lower edges of the Pocket. Press.

To secure the fold at the top of the pocket, stitch close to the lower pressed edge.

With right sides facing up, pin each pocket to the Front Sweater, matching the upper corners of the pocket to the placement dots marked on the Front Sweater. Carefully pin in place.

To secure the pocket, stitch close to the folded edge, carefully following the curved lower edges. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.

Repeat all of the pocket steps for the other side of the sweater / other pocket. That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow for Day 2 of the Marlo Sewalong.



January 15, 2021

Our sewalong starts in just over a week. In the meantime I wanted to put together a post with all of the information you might need to pick the right fabric and notions for your Marlo. Good sweater knits can be hard to find (but are out there), so I wanted to show you a bunch of great alternatives in case you want to start with a simpler fabric.

Remember that the main fabric does not actually require stretch, but the bands need at least 20%. You can use the same fabric for the whole sweater or use a contrasting fabric for the bands. Here are some fabrics I would suggest:


A great beginner friendly option is a good french terry or sweatshirting. I also included a waffle knit in the picture as another great option. These fabrics sometimes have stretch and sometimes don’t. If they do, you can use it for the whole sweater. If not, I suggest using a matching or coordinating ribknit. I bought the ones above from Blackbird Fabrics and Iseefabric. Lots of fabric stores are starting to carry matching ribbing and french terry / sweatshirting so I would just search around a bit. These fabrics are easy to find, easy to care for and generally easy to sew.


I love a good ponte! Look for ponte with little to no polyester content and more rayon content for a good quality version. This one is from Blackbird. I love ponte because it’s easy to sew, looks more elevated than a french terry, and generally has enough stretch that you could use the same fabric for the main sweater and bands.


Boucle is making a big comeback and I love it. It feels very 90s to me for some reason. It has an amazing curly texture while still being fairly lightweight. It has a beautiful sweater feel without being an actual sweater knit. I have been seeing it everywhere lately, although the three above came from Etsy and It usually has stretch in it and looks great as the main sweater and bands in one.


I wish I had a swatch of a regular polar fleece to show you, but know that all polar fleece is a great option for the Marlo. The one above is the teddy bear / sherpa fleece that I am seeing everywhere. This one does not stretch so I would pair it with a matching ribbing or other knit. I have seen some polar fleece that does stretch however. The swatch above is from JoAnns and they carry a bunch of colors right now.


My favorite fabric to use for the Marlo is definitely a sweater knit. They can be hard to find, although I had good success on Etsy and with independent stores. I prefer a medium weight sweater knit that holds it’s shape. Lighter weight sweater knits like hacchi can also be used but may not give you the same look – so keep that in mind. The ones above came from my kits (sold out sorry), Etsy, and Fashion Fabrics Club.


You are also going to need a few notions for the Marlo. You will need some all purpose matching thread, a stretch sewing machine needle, and some fusible interfacing. The interfacing is to stabilize the bottom portion of the neckband where the buttons go. I prefer tricot interfacing which I buy from Wawak, but any light to medium weight interfacing should be fine. Also, you can get some clear elastic for should seams if you like. This will help the sweater to not grow over time while it hangs on your body or a hanger. This is most important if your fabric is heavy or very stretchy. Usually I don’t add it though.


Lastly, you are going to need some buttons. The Marlo calls for 1 1/8″ buttons, but you can go a bit smaller or bigger depending on your preference – just make sure you adjust the size of your buttonholes if you do. I love a big wooden button. I think it gives it that “grandpa sweater” vibe that I love. I found all of the above buttons on Etsy. Vintage buttons are a great option as well.

That is it! I hope this was helpful. I can’t wait to see your Marlo Sweaters.



December 21, 2020

Gabriela of Chalk and Notch and I decided to collaborate and each make our own versions of the Page Hoodie and Hudson pants for a matching sweatsuit to lounge around in this holiday season.

I used the high rise tutorial for my Hudson pattern that you can find here. For the Page Hoodie, I used the cropped view and her free crew neckband tutorial and pattern piece that you can find here. I love how the high rise Hudsons go with the cropped Page sweatshirt. Perfect combo.

For my sweatsuit I decided to try a bleaching technique that I had been wanting to try. I love how it turned out. Very easy and fun to do. I definitely want to try it again on some nicer fabric for another project. Here is how you can do it yourself.

You will need fabric. I used black french terry from Raspberry Creek Fabrics and some ribbing from Etsy. You also will need bleach (100%, not diluted) a spray bottle, a ground covering so you don’t kill your grass, and you may also want some plastic gloves, an apron, and a plastic bin to transport the fabric once it’s been bleached.

Fill your spray bottle with bleach. Turn the nozzle so it is on stream, not spritz. You want the drops to be thicker. I recommend practicing on a scrap of fabric first. Here is my trial. I sprayed the front side of one (right) and the back side of the other (left). I like the way it looks better when you spray the back side. The bleach sinks through but leaves softer edges that way.

Here is my spraying setup. I ended up using the garage since there was so much snow on the ground, but you could do it outside as well.

I put my fabric right side down on the plastic sheeting and just started spraying (remember it should be on stream). I walked around the fabric so the sprays came from all angles.

After spraying I let it sit for about 15 minutes and the color quickly started to appear. Now, check the front of the fabric and see if you like the look. You can always spray some more and check again.

I found that the ribbing needed to be sprayed right side up so I turned the ribbing over and sprayed it again.

Once you are happy with the look, wash immediately. This stops the bleach from doing any more damage to the fabric.

Here is how it looked washed and dried.

And now that it is all sewn up, I love it. Pretty sure I will be wearing this for the next two weeks straight. I ordered a couple of fun colors to make some plain colored sweatsuits as well.

Make sure you check out Chalk and Notch to see Gabriela’s Page and Hudson combo too.



October 29, 2020

The Hudson pants sewing pattern was my very first pattern. Since it’s release, styles have changed and I often get the request for a high rise alteration. I am super excited to be sharing it with you today. I’ve made three pairs with this tutorial already and I love them so much.

The Hudson pant originally was drafted to sit about 2 inches below the belly button in the front. It then gradually raises up along the sides to meet at the natural waist at center back. So essentially we are going to be raising the front by 2 inches and evening out the sides so that it is at the same level as the back.

First gather your front pattern pieces. This includes pieces 1, 3 and 4 . Stack them on top of one another so they all line up. Grab a piece of paper and put it behind the top of your Hudson pattern pieces.

Draw a 2 inch line up at center front.

Draw a perpindicular line to the left at the top of the 2 inch line.

Continue that line straight to the left until it is over the side seam.

Connect the side seam up to meet the newly drawn waistline.

Measure out the lines at the center front, outside pocket edge, pocket opening edge, and side seam.

Transfer all of these new cut lines to pattern pieces 1, 3 and 4. They should look something like this once you have attached them all to paper.

Line them all up on top of one another to double check them and transfer the notch up to the new waistline. Mark on all three pattern pieces so they line up.

Now we are going to adjust the pocket opening. We added 1.5″ to the pocket opening. We are going to add back in 1″ at the bottom just to keep it looking balanced. We will not take off any of the extra length of the pocket bag though. This hack gives you a really nice deep pocket bag which I love.

Start with pattern piece 4. Tape it to a piece of paper and measure up by 1″ at the bottom of the pocket opening.

Gradually draw the pocket opening line to rejoin the original line like this.

Transfer this new cut line to pattern piece 1.

Line them up to make sure they match.

You are also going to need to lengthen the pocket detail pattern piece by just .25″.

Now for the back. You are going to raise the side seam by the same measurement as the front side seam. For me it was 1″.

Draw a line from the top of this line to the center back.

Trim the back pattern piece and you are done.

You sew up the Hudsons using the same instructions as the original pattern.

I hope this was helpful! I love my new high rise Hudsons so much. If you need to buy the pattern you can purchase it in my shop here.



October 1, 2020

I love a good scrap busting project, and this Roscoe blouse, sewn up in 3 different leftover cuts of fabric, may be my favorite scrap buster to date.

I grabbed three rayon fabrics, all with the same basic color family, to use for this project. As you can see I did make a couple of hacks to the pattern. I used the peplum hack for the Roscoe that I blogged about here for the bodice.

Flor the sleeves, I lengthened them by about 6 inches, and then added an elastic casing at the wrist for a long sleeve hack. I also cut the sleeve in two so I could use two fabrics instead of one at the sleeve.

I am so happy with how this project turned out. I was not so sure about it half way thru, but in the end it has that perfect boho vibe that I love. Such a great transitional piece for fall.

Each of the three cuts were between 1/2 and 1 yard and I just mixed and matched them. There is no real science to it. If you have more fabrics than three that go well together, you could use more. Can’t wait to make another one soon.