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OGDEN CAMI BIAS SLIP DRESS TUTORIAL

August 4, 2020

Hi everybody! It’s Raven from @Ravenmaureen_! And I’m so excited to guest blog over here at True Bias! I’m a huge fan of all of their patterns (I have several) but the Ogden Cami has a special place in my heart. So much so, that I’ve made 8 different variations and none of them are quite the same! 
Today I’m going to walk you through how to make an Ogden Cami bias slip dress! Slip dresses are definitely “in” right now and if you already own this pattern then you’ve got all the tools that you need. But here’s what you need to know! Fabric cut on the bias is very tricky and sensitive throughout the making process. I suggest trying to finish this project in a day if you can to avoid unnecessary stretching. 

Supplies: 

  • Ogden Cami pattern
  • 3-4 yards of fabric (approximately 60 inches)

Fabric Suggestions: 

  • Satin polyester
  • Rayon Challis 
  • Cotton voile
  • Light weight linen


My fabric is from Style Makers Fabric

Step 1: Extend your ogden cami pattern main pieces to a dress length. Midi is always perfect for a bias slip dress. This depends on your personal preference and height.


Step 2: Extend your strap piece patterns by 3 inches. This step is optional since this will create a deeper neckline for the front and back. 


Step 3: Press your fabric and make sure there are absolutely no wrinkles. 


Step 4: Find your true bias. No pun intended. Take the corner of your fabric and fold it onto itself right sides together like this.

The wrong side of your fabric should look like a right-angle triangle. You might have to do this step on the floor since it may take up a lot of space. If so, make sure that your fabric is extremely flat and even. You may test your bias by stretching along the fold. If it stretches, then you’ve found your bias!


Step 5: Take your main pattern piece and line up the folded fabric edge with your “on the fold” pattern edge. Make sure all sides of the pattern piece are inside the triangle. Now you may begin to cut. Using the other edge of the fabric, repeat steps 4 and 5 for the other main pattern piece.


Step 6: Cut all of your pieces this exact same way, including the lining pieces and the straps. You may use the middle of your fabric and fold it into a triangle to get the same bias effect.


Step 7: Once all of your pieces are cut, leave all of your pieces flat on the table. It’s best to avoid “fiddling,” mock try-ons or holding it up to look at it for the time being. 


Step 8: Stay stitch every cut edge of your pieces. In the instructions for the Cami, you are required to stay-stitch the neckline and armholes. Repeat these same steps but add all of the side seams (main and lining pieces), and the hem lines too. Make sure that your fabric does not hang off the sewing table during this process. 


Note: Once all sides are stay-stitched, it is completely normal for the edges to begin to ruffle. Do not press them out. 


Step 9: Begin following all of the instructions for the Ogden Cami per usual. However, be sure to use extra pins on all of your pieces and avoid letting any pieces hang off your sewing table as you sew. If you can, sew carefully while your other hand holds the excess to keep everything even. Following these guidelines will help you avoid uneven hemlines and over stretched areas.


Step 10: Give your dress a good press. When ironing a dress like this you want to avoid dragging your iron across the fabric in circular motions. Simply press, steam, lift and repeat. You may use a pressing ham as well. 


Step 11: Complete all the steps of the cami except for the hem finish for the main pieces. Once your slip dress is complete, hang it on a hanger or dress form overnight. Then give it a narrow hem in the morning. This will allow the fabric to fall and drape beautifully. 
Your all finished! 

OTHER SEWING TUTORIALS

SCOOP NECK RIO HACK

May 22, 2020

I am back today with another simple hack for the Rio pattern. Today I am going to show you how to create a scoop neck version of the pattern instead of the crew neck style that it comes with.

To create this pattern you are going to make adjustments to the main front and back pieces and also the neckband. The sleeve and sleeve band pattern pieces will not be changed at all.

First take the back pattern piece. You are going to want to widen the neck opening a bit so we will make the shoulder seam shorter. I decided to take 1″ off of the neck edge of the shoulder seam. This is on a size 8. You may want to make it a bit more or less depending on your size and the look you are going for.

Now draw a nice curved line back to the original back neck cut line. Be sure that the line that intersects with the shoulder seam is at a 90 degree angle. Trim your neck back neckline.

Just like you did on the back, make a mark 1″ (or whatever measurement you decided on) on the shoulder seam closest to the neckline.

Make another mark down the center front that will be for the depth of the scoop. I decided to mark 4″ down for this one. Next time I may increase that a bit, but this is personal preference.

Now, connect the two markings with a nice curved line, making sure that the beginning and end are perpendicular to the CF and shoulder seam.

Cut along your new neckline.

Measure your new front neckline and your new back neckline. Add them together, multiple by 2 and subtract 3/4″ for seam allowance (because of the way the Rio in constructed we only need to account for the front and back shoulder seam allowance of one shoulder seam). Then multiple this number by 70% (.7). This will be the new neckband length. Here is an example.

Back Neck (4.6″) + Front Neck (10″) = 14.6″ x 2 = 29.2 – Seam Allowance (.75″) = 28.45 x .7 = 19.92″

So I will cut my neckband as the same width as the original pattern but the length with be about 20″.

Now cut out all of your pattern pieces and sew it up.

The construction does not change at all from the original instructions.

That is it. I am so happy with the way this hack turned out. I already am planning to make a few more for easy summer wardrobe essentials. If you want to purchase the Rio pattern you can do so here.

SEWING TUTORIALS

BANDLESS SLEEVE RIO HACK

May 13, 2020

Today I have a very easy hack to share with you for the Rio Ringer T-shirt and Dress pattern. I know that not everyone loves the ringer style with that nod to the 70s and 80s. This hack shows you how to use the Rio pattern and adapt the sleeves slightly for a bandless, regular t-shirt sleeve. I also show you how I used another fitted long sleeve pattern to create a long sleeved Rio as well.

To create a short sleeved Rio with no band we will need to adjust the sleeve pattern slightly. Everything else is the same. Take your sleeve pattern piece and add 1 inch to the length. This will accommodate the length that you lose when not using the band and also adds a bit of length to turn under for the sleeve hem.

Now sew up your Rio according to the directions, omitting the sleeve band instructions. Once you have sewed up the side seam and underarm of the sleeve, fold the sleeve hem under by 5/8″. Press and pin in place.

Using a zigzag stitch or other stretch stitch of your choice, sew hem at 1/2″.

If you want to sew a long sleeved version, you will need a long sleeved pattern piece with a fitted sleeve. I used the Nikko pattern since it is a similarly fitted sleeve style. Put the Rio sleeve on top of the long sleeve pattern and line up the underarms.

As you can see the Nikko is slightly slimmer than the Rio. So I will just gradually blend from the Rio at the top to the Nikko at the wrist as shown below.

Now you just sew up as you did the short sleeved version, hemming at the wrist at 5/8″.

That is it. Simple right? Probably so simple that it didn’t need a whole blog post, but I love how this really easy change gets you a great crew neck pattern that is super versatile.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 4 : PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

April 23, 2020

It’s the last official day of the Rio sewalong, but please continue to check back for lots of fun hacks and tutorials to come. I have some great stuff planned for the Rio.

Today is where everything comes together. The first thing we will do is attach the sleeves to the body. With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to it’s coordinating armhole matching notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam of your garment first and then the front and back notches.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

If you are using soft stretch, iron a strip along the front and back hems at this time.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the sides and continuing to pin the under sleeve. Pay extra attention to the sleeve bands and underarm seams to make sure they match up.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge at 3/8″ seam allowance in one continuous line of stitching. Press seam allowances towards the back.

Finish the sleeves like you did for the neckline by sewing (using a stretch stitch) 1/8″ towards the back of each underarm seam along the width of the sleeve band, catching the seam allowances underneath.

Use the iron with steam to reshape the arm bands if necessary.

Turn the bottom of the garment up by 5/8″ and press for the hem. Pin.

Using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle, stitch the hem in place.

That is it! I hope that this sewalong was helpful and that you love your new Rio.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 3 : NECKBAND AND ALTERNATE BINDING METHOD

April 22, 2020

Welcome back to day 3 of the Rio sewalong. Today is going to look a lot like yesterday, except we are going to be attaching the neck binding.

The first thing we need to do is sew the left shoulder seam. With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the left shoulder. Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch or by serging.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

Just like you did for the sleeves, place a pin at each end and at the midpoint of the neckline. Do the same for the neckband.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the neckband to the garment neckline, matching up the pins at each end, and at the midpoint. Stretch the neckband to fit, and place additional pins as needed to ensure the neckband is evenly stretched along the entire neckline.

Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch.

or by serging.

Press the seam allowances away from the garment and towards the neckband.

Fold the upper edge of the neckband to the inside, along the original press line, so that the band wraps around the neckline and encases the seam allowances. Pin in place.

Using a zigzag stitch or twin needle, topstitch the neckband. Steam to press and reshape the neckline.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the right shoulder. Pay close attention to lining up the binding edges of the neckband.

Using a 3/8″ seam allowance and a stretch stitch or serger, sew the shoulder seam.

Press the seam allowances towards the back.

Using a straight stitch, sew a line of stitching on the right side of the garment, the length of the neckband, 1/8″ to the back of the shoulder seam. This will flatten the seam allowances and keep them tucked to the back. Sew back and forth a couple of times to make it nice and secure.

That is it for the regular ready to wear method for the neck binding. We will be using the same method on the sleeves tomorrow. For the alternate sew in the round method see below.

ALTERNATE SEW IN THE ROUND METHOD

Although not as quick and bit more finicky, the sew in the round method may be a better option for you if you are especially sensitive to tags or any bulk on the inside of your clothing. You can substitute this method for the neck binding and sleeve bindings if you prefer.

When using this method, you will want to sew up the second shoulder seam before topstitching your binding. Instead you will pin the should and open binding at the same time.

Sew at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Now fold the binding to the inside of the garment along the middle press line and pin. (Or press if you are using softstretch)

Topstitch the neck binding in place using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle.

Press and use steam to help it back into shape. And that is it. Like I said, you can use this alternate method for the sleeves as well if you prefer.

Come back tomorrow and we will finish off the Rio Sewalong.