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MARLO SWEATER VEST HACK

February 11, 2021

I have a super fun and easy hack for you today. I am going to show you how to use the Marlo pattern to create a sweater vest. I am using the long version of the pattern, but this would also look great with View A – the cropped sweater view.

Begin by cutting out all of your pattern pieces except for the sleeve and sleeve band.

Grab one of your front sweater pieces. First we are going to take some of the width off of the shoulder. I decided to take off 1.5″ for mine, but you could take off more or less depending on how dropped you want the shoulder to be. From the new shoulder point, make a gradual line down to meet the underarm. Cut along the the line you made. Repeat for other front.

Do the same thing to your back Marlo piece.

Now, measure your new front and back armholes.

We will use my numbers as reference, but know that your numbers may be very different than mine.

Front armhole (FA) = 10in

Back armhole (BA) = 10.25″

FA (10) + BA (10.25) = 20.25″ – Shoulder Seam Allowances (.75″) = 19.5″

Now that we know the armhole measurement, we are going to calculate it at 80% (to accomodate 20% stretch)

19.5″ x .8 = 15.6″ = armhole band measurement.

Now cut two pieces of fabric that are the armhole band measurement x 4″. The stretch of the fabric should be along the width or 15.6″ measurement for mine.

Fold each band in half widthwise and sew into a tube.

With wrong sides touching, fold the tube up lengthwise in the middle like the following photo. Press and steam.

Sew up the shoulder seams and sides seams of your Marlo.

Align the seam of the band with the underarm seam of your Marlo. Stretch to fit the band along the rest of the armhole.

Sew the seam, stretching the band as you go. Press seam allowances towards sweater and the band out and away from the sweater.

Sew up the rest of the Marlo according to the instructions.

I love my Marlo Sweater turned Sweater Vest so much! Such a simple hack, yet a completely different look. I think I will be layering this over my Nikko top a lot this winter.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 4

January 28, 2021

Welcome back to day 4 – the last day of the Marlo Sewalong.

Grab your buttonhole guide as well as your buttons. You will also need some kind of marking tool like a fabric pen or chalk pencil.

Using the buttonhole guide, mark the buttonholes on the right front (when wearing). I find that the easiest way to do this is to fold your guide in half and place it along the neckband.

Next sew buttonholes on the right front. I recommend practicing on scrap fabric first. Open up your buttonholes.

Mark coordinating buttons on left front (when wearing). Note that the buttons are placed towards the top of the buttonhole openings (not in the middle). I like to use the buttonhole openings to mark the button placement but you can also use the guide.

Sew buttons on to the left front.

Now to finish up the wristbands. With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half, lengthwise. Press.

Open Wristband back up.

With right sides, together, pin short ends of Wristband together.

Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press seam allowances open or to one side.

With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half along original press line. Press again.

Pin folded Wristband to lower edge of sleeve, matching seam on Wristband to underarm seam and stretching band to fit. Pin in place.

Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press wristband down and seam allowances up toward sleeve.

And that is it! Give your Marlo Sweater a final press, clip any loose thread, and wear it proudly.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 3

January 27, 2021

Welcome back for day 3 of the Marlo Sweater Sewalong.

There are two methods for attaching the neckband. Option 1 is the beginner method and best for fabrics that are thick or tend to unravel. Option 2 is the intermediate method. It has a cleaner finish on the inside of your sweater and works best if your fabric is thinner and presses well. We will be going over both methods in the sewalong.

NECKBAND OPTION 1 (EASY)

With right sides touching, fold bottom edge of Neck Band in half lengthwise, and pin.

Serge or sew bottom edge at 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch or straight stitch.

Trim seam allowance and turn bottom edge of Neck Band right side out. Press carefully to create a nice, sharp right angle.

With right sides touching, pin the folded Neck Band to the opening edge of the sweater, aligning raw edges. (Note: The side of the Neck Band with the interfacing should be against the right side of the sweater).

Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch ant the bottom edge. The bottom of the neckband should be flush with the bottom of the waistband. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.

Serge or sew the Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.

Press the seam allowance toward the sweater.

On the front of your sweater, topstitch the sweater close to Neck Band seam to secure seam allowances, as pictured.

NECKBAND OPTION 2 (INTERMEDIATE)

Open up the pressed Neck Band. On the side without interfacing, turn the long edge in by 3/8″ as pictured.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded side of the Neck Band to the sweater along neckline, carefully matching notches. The bottom edge of the Neck Band should extend past the bottom of the waistband by 3/8″.

Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch and bottom edge. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.

Serge or sew Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.

Press seam allowances toward Neck Band.

With right sides touching, fold the lower edge of the Neck Band in half, placing turned-in edge just slightly over the seamline, as pictured. Pin in place.

Stitch across the lower edge of the Neck Band at 3/8″ seam allowance, being careful to place your line of stitching just below the edge of your waistband. Repeat for other lower edge of Neck Band.

Trim edges to reduce bulk. Turn Neck Band right side out.

Following the original press line, turn the Neck Band toward the inside of the sweater, placing the inner folded edge just over the seamline. Place pins on the outside of the Neck Band all the way around to secure, as pictured.

To secure, on the outside, edgestitch the Neck Band 1/8″ inside the seamline, catching the folded edge of the Neck Band facing underneath.

That’s it for today. We are so close! Tomorrow we will attach the cuffs and the buttons / buttonholes. Can’t wait.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 2

January 26, 2021

Welcome back for day 2 of the Marlo Sewalong.

Pin the Front sweater to the Back Sweater at the shoulder edges with right sides touching. Serge or sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open or to the back.

OPTIONAL: If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to add a strip of clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seam as I did above. This will keep it from stretching out over time.

To sew the clear elastic, arrange elastic on top of seam allowance, centering over 3/8″ seam line. Serge or sew the seam, with the elastic on top, catching it in the line of stitching. Do not stretch the elastic as you sew.

Trim ends of elastic even with armhole and neckline edges as needed.

With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to the armhole of the sweater, matching front and back notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam.

Serge or sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at sides, continuing to pin sleeve underarm edges together. Make sure the lower edges of the sweater and sleeve align, and that the underarm seams match up.

Serge or sew the side and underarm seam in one continuous line of stitching, using a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. You will want to pull the sleeve up to create a straight or slightly curved line of stitching around the armpit. Press seam allowances open or towards the back.

If you havn’t done so already, fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides touching, and press.

With right sides touching, pin the folded Waistband to the lower edge of the sweater. Stretch the Waistband to fit, matching up the double notches at center back, and the single notches to the side seams. The front raw edges should be aligned.

Sew. Press waistband down and seam allowances up towards the sweater.

It should look like this once it’s all finished.

That’s it for today! It’s starting to look like a real sweater. See you back here tomorrow where we will attach the neckband.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 1

January 25, 2021

Welcome to Day 1 of the Marlo Sweater Sewalong. Please note that I will be using a regular sewing machine, but your may also use a serger for many of the steps.

Before you start sewing, I do recommend testing your stitches. Because of the oversized nature of the pattern and depending on your fabric choice, you may be able to get away with a straight stitch, or you may find that a stretch stitch is more suitable. I recommend taking a swatch of fabric and folding it in half to try out stitches. I would try a straight stitch, a stretch stitch setting on your machine (it looks like a lighting bolt), or an elongated zigzag stitch which is my favorite. For an elongated zigzag stitch I put my settings at .5mm wide and 2.5mm long, but your should test on your fabric and machine and adjust as necessary.

Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches from your pattern pieces to your fabric. I usually just do a small 1/4″ snip, but if your fabric is a loose weave you may not be able to see the snip. In this case I would use a marking tool such as chalk to mark each notch.

With right sides touching, pin Neck Band sections together at the center back (The short end with the double notches marks center back). Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward one side.

With wrong sides touching, fold Neck Band in half lengthwise. Press.

Open Neck Band back up. Apply fusible interfacing to the bottom neckband edges on the wrong side to stabilize the button/buttonhole area. The fusible interfacing should be placed 3/8″ from the bottom and right outside edges, aligning with the center fold you pressed, as pictured.

Set Neck Band aside for now.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEW B ONLY. PROCEED TO SEWALONG DAY 2 FOR VIEW A.

Now we are going to prep and attached the pockets for View B. To stabilize the pocket opening, apply fusible pocket interfacing to the wrong side of the Pocket, placing interfacing 1/4″ down from upper raw edge, as pictured.

With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of the Pocket down by 1/4″ and press.

Flip over so the right side of the pocket is up. With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pocket at the notches. Pin.

Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 3/8″ seam allowance. Clip corners.

Turn the upper corners of the Pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Pin in place.

Starting just before the fold, bast the pocket sides and around the curved lower edges, leaving a long tail of thread free at both ends of stitching. Place this row of basting stitches a scant 3/8″ from the raw edge.

Using the thread tails at either end of basting, pull gently as you slightly gather the lower curved edges of the Pocket. This will help you to neatly turn in the 3/8″ seam allowance all around the side and lower edges of the Pocket. Press.

To secure the fold at the top of the pocket, stitch close to the lower pressed edge.

With right sides facing up, pin each pocket to the Front Sweater, matching the upper corners of the pocket to the placement dots marked on the Front Sweater. Carefully pin in place.

To secure the pocket, stitch close to the folded edge, carefully following the curved lower edges. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.

Repeat all of the pocket steps for the other side of the sweater / other pocket. That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow for Day 2 of the Marlo Sewalong.