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SCOOP NECK RIO HACK

May 22, 2020

I am back today with another simple hack for the Rio pattern. Today I am going to show you how to create a scoop neck version of the pattern instead of the crew neck style that it comes with.

To create this pattern you are going to make adjustments to the main front and back pieces and also the neckband. The sleeve and sleeve band pattern pieces will not be changed at all.

First take the back pattern piece. You are going to want to widen the neck opening a bit so we will make the shoulder seam shorter. I decided to take 1″ off of the neck edge of the shoulder seam. This is on a size 8. You may want to make it a bit more or less depending on your size and the look you are going for.

Now draw a nice curved line back to the original back neck cut line. Be sure that the line that intersects with the shoulder seam is at a 90 degree angle. Trim your neck back neckline.

Just like you did on the back, make a mark 1″ (or whatever measurement you decided on) on the shoulder seam closest to the neckline.

Make another mark down the center front that will be for the depth of the scoop. I decided to mark 4″ down for this one. Next time I may increase that a bit, but this is personal preference.

Now, connect the two markings with a nice curved line, making sure that the beginning and end are perpendicular to the CF and shoulder seam.

Cut along your new neckline.

Measure your new front neckline and your new back neckline. Add them together, multiple by 2 and subtract 3/4″ for seam allowance (because of the way the Rio in constructed we only need to account for the front and back shoulder seam allowance of one shoulder seam). Then multiple this number by 70% (.7). This will be the new neckband length. Here is an example.

Back Neck (4.6″) + Front Neck (10″) = 14.6″ x 2 = 29.2 – Seam Allowance (.75″) = 28.45 x .7 = 19.92″

So I will cut my neckband as the same width as the original pattern but the length with be about 20″.

Now cut out all of your pattern pieces and sew it up.

The construction does not change at all from the original instructions.

That is it. I am so happy with the way this hack turned out. I already am planning to make a few more for easy summer wardrobe essentials. If you want to purchase the Rio pattern you can do so here.

SEWING TUTORIALS

BANDLESS SLEEVE RIO HACK

May 13, 2020

Today I have a very easy hack to share with you for the Rio Ringer T-shirt and Dress pattern. I know that not everyone loves the ringer style with that nod to the 70s and 80s. This hack shows you how to use the Rio pattern and adapt the sleeves slightly for a bandless, regular t-shirt sleeve. I also show you how I used another fitted long sleeve pattern to create a long sleeved Rio as well.

To create a short sleeved Rio with no band we will need to adjust the sleeve pattern slightly. Everything else is the same. Take your sleeve pattern piece and add 1 inch to the length. This will accommodate the length that you lose when not using the band and also adds a bit of length to turn under for the sleeve hem.

Now sew up your Rio according to the directions, omitting the sleeve band instructions. Once you have sewed up the side seam and underarm of the sleeve, fold the sleeve hem under by 5/8″. Press and pin in place.

Using a zigzag stitch or other stretch stitch of your choice, sew hem at 1/2″.

If you want to sew a long sleeved version, you will need a long sleeved pattern piece with a fitted sleeve. I used the Nikko pattern since it is a similarly fitted sleeve style. Put the Rio sleeve on top of the long sleeve pattern and line up the underarms.

As you can see the Nikko is slightly slimmer than the Rio. So I will just gradually blend from the Rio at the top to the Nikko at the wrist as shown below.

Now you just sew up as you did the short sleeved version, hemming at the wrist at 5/8″.

That is it. Simple right? Probably so simple that it didn’t need a whole blog post, but I love how this really easy change gets you a great crew neck pattern that is super versatile.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 4 : PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

April 23, 2020

It’s the last official day of the Rio sewalong, but please continue to check back for lots of fun hacks and tutorials to come. I have some great stuff planned for the Rio.

Today is where everything comes together. The first thing we will do is attach the sleeves to the body. With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to it’s coordinating armhole matching notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam of your garment first and then the front and back notches.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

If you are using soft stretch, iron a strip along the front and back hems at this time.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the sides and continuing to pin the under sleeve. Pay extra attention to the sleeve bands and underarm seams to make sure they match up.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge at 3/8″ seam allowance in one continuous line of stitching. Press seam allowances towards the back.

Finish the sleeves like you did for the neckline by sewing (using a stretch stitch) 1/8″ towards the back of each underarm seam along the width of the sleeve band, catching the seam allowances underneath.

Use the iron with steam to reshape the arm bands if necessary.

Turn the bottom of the garment up by 5/8″ and press for the hem. Pin.

Using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle, stitch the hem in place.

That is it! I hope that this sewalong was helpful and that you love your new Rio.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 3 : NECKBAND AND ALTERNATE BINDING METHOD

April 22, 2020

Welcome back to day 3 of the Rio sewalong. Today is going to look a lot like yesterday, except we are going to be attaching the neck binding.

The first thing we need to do is sew the left shoulder seam. With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the left shoulder. Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch or by serging.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

Just like you did for the sleeves, place a pin at each end and at the midpoint of the neckline. Do the same for the neckband.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the neckband to the garment neckline, matching up the pins at each end, and at the midpoint. Stretch the neckband to fit, and place additional pins as needed to ensure the neckband is evenly stretched along the entire neckline.

Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch.

or by serging.

Press the seam allowances away from the garment and towards the neckband.

Fold the upper edge of the neckband to the inside, along the original press line, so that the band wraps around the neckline and encases the seam allowances. Pin in place.

Using a zigzag stitch or twin needle, topstitch the neckband. Steam to press and reshape the neckline.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the right shoulder. Pay close attention to lining up the binding edges of the neckband.

Using a 3/8″ seam allowance and a stretch stitch or serger, sew the shoulder seam.

Press the seam allowances towards the back.

Using a straight stitch, sew a line of stitching on the right side of the garment, the length of the neckband, 1/8″ to the back of the shoulder seam. This will flatten the seam allowances and keep them tucked to the back. Sew back and forth a couple of times to make it nice and secure.

That is it for the regular ready to wear method for the neck binding. We will be using the same method on the sleeves tomorrow. For the alternate sew in the round method see below.

ALTERNATE SEW IN THE ROUND METHOD

Although not as quick and bit more finicky, the sew in the round method may be a better option for you if you are especially sensitive to tags or any bulk on the inside of your clothing. You can substitute this method for the neck binding and sleeve bindings if you prefer.

When using this method, you will want to sew up the second shoulder seam before topstitching your binding. Instead you will pin the should and open binding at the same time.

Sew at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Now fold the binding to the inside of the garment along the middle press line and pin. (Or press if you are using softstretch)

Topstitch the neck binding in place using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle.

Press and use steam to help it back into shape. And that is it. Like I said, you can use this alternate method for the sleeves as well if you prefer.

Come back tomorrow and we will finish off the Rio Sewalong.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 2 : SLEEVE BINDINGS

April 21, 2020

Now that everything is cut out and ready to go we are going to start sewing the Rio. I am going to be sewing up two Rio t-shirts on the blog during this sewalong. The first one I will be sewing up according to the instructions. I will use my sewing machine (not serger). The second version I will be sewing up using a serger and also introducing the Heatnbond softstretch that I mentioned in the fabrics post last week. I want to make sure that those who have it know the best ways to use it for the Rio.

We will begin by preparing our our neck and arm bindings. Bring all three strips of ribbing over to your iron. Fold each in half lengthwise (wrong sides touching) and press. Use the steam on your iron to really set the crease and open it back up.

Fold in 1/4″ along one long edge and press.

Fold up along original middle press line and press again. Set aside.

If you are using the softstretch, cut three pieces of the softstretch the lengths of each binding strip. There is a shiny side and the paper side.

Put the shiny side down along the folded up (by 1/4″) edge. Using a hot iron with no steam, iron the softstretch to the binding until it adheres well. I leave the iron for about 10 seconds on each part.

Set the binding aside and let it completely cool. Once cooled down, remove the paper backing for each binding. It’s hard to see, but the softstretch should have left a film where the paper backing was taken off. It is not sticky unless warm.

Take one sleeve and place a pin at each end along the bottom and one in the center (fold in half to find). Do the same for the sleeve binding.

With right sides touching, pin the unpressed edge of the sleeve band to the lower edge of the sleeve, matching up the pins and stretching the sleeve band to fit. Add more pins as necessary to stretch the binding evenly along the bottom of the sleeve.

Stitch using a 3/8″ seam allowance using the stretch stitch on your machine or an elongated zigzag.

Or use a serger

Press the seam allowances down toward the sleeve band. As you press, make sure the lower edge of the sleeve band remains turned under.

Fold the sleeve band to the inside, along the originial press line, so that the band wraps around the bottom of the sleeve while encasing the seam allowance and the stitchline. Pin in place.

If you are using the softstretch, use the iron and steam to set it. This should replace the need for pins.

This is a good time to turn the sleeve over and make sure that the binding is visually even on the right side. If not adjust it at this time.

Using a zigzag topstitch, sew along the top folded edge of the binding to secure. Be sure to catch the folded underside edge of the sleeve band as you sew.

You can also do this with a twin needle or a coverstitch if you have one.

Once stitched it will post likely be a bit stretched out. Use the steam on your iron to shape it back into place. It works wonders.

And that is it for today. Tomorrow we will do a similar method to the neckline and I will also be showing you an alternative method to attach the bindings in the round if you prefer it.