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TIE STRAP / ELASTIC WAIST OGDEN HACK

July 25, 2021

Welcome back to our third hack in the Ogden Month series. I am super excited about this one. Today I will show you how to make this tie shoulder / elastic waist blouse hack using the Ogden Cami pattern. Let’s get started.

You will need your front, back and strap pattern pieces for this hack. You will use the front and back to create the linings as well so don’t worry about the lining pattern pieces.

First let’s talk straps. Since the straps will be tied a the shoulder, we will need 4 instead of 2 of them. We will also need to lengthen them quite a bit. As a starting point I decided to make my straps 3 x their normal length. This was pretty close in the end.

Next, let’s work on the front. We want to shorten it since it will be ending at the natural waist instead of around the hip. I decided to take 3 inches off of the bottom as a starting point (we will take more off later once we try it on). Measure the 3″ up from the hem to keep the shape the same.

We also need to straighten out the sides since we no longer need the extra width for the hips. Starting around the bust area, I drew a line straight down to the bottom and trimmed it off like below.

Now, repeat everything that you did for the front to the back pattern piece.

Cut out

  • 2 fronts on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 2 backs on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 4 ties

Sew up your ties according to the instructions and set them aside.

Following the instructions for the Ogden cami, staystitch, sew each front to one back, and press. (You will have one main cami and one lining cami sewn up.)

On the main cami, pin one tie to each of the 4 strap points.

Following the Ogden instructions, sew the main and lining cami’s together, attaching all four straps at the same time.

Turn the Ogden right side out, understitch, and give it all a good press.

Now to figure out the elastic casing. I am using 3/4″ elastic for mine, but you can use whatever width you choose.

Put your Ogden on and tie the straps. Wrap your elastic around the natural waist (or wherever you want it to sit). Adjust your cami so that it has a small even amount of blousing above the elastic.

Using a marking tool, mark at the top of your elastic. It’s much easier to get a friend to help with marking the back.

Once marked, take off your cami. Make sure that the lining is laying flat underneath and fold along the center fornt and center back. Smooth out your markings like below (top marked line).

Measure and mark another line below the first to be your cut line. This one accounts for the extra amount needed for your elastic casing. The amount will be your elastic width x 2 + 1/4″ for space + 1/4″ press under. For me that looked like 3/4″ x 2 = 1.5″ + 1/4″ + 1/4″ = 2″.

Cut along the bottom line thru all layers.

Pull the main cami up and out of the way so you just have the lining extended. We are going to trim down the lining so it just tucks inside the casing by 1/4″.

So for me, I marked and trimmed off 1 3/4″ off of the lining.

Pull the main cami back down and make sure everything is flat and lining up. Turn it inside out. Press the main cami up by 1/4″ wrong sides touching.

Press it up again by 7/8″ (or your elastic width plus about 1/8″). It should cover the lining by about 1/4″. Press and pin generously.

Edgestitch the casing closed, leaving a small 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

Cut your elastic to a comfortable length (Don’t make it too tight or it will ride up when you are wearing it.).

Insert the elastic thru the casing.

Overlap the ends and stitch the elastic to secure it.

Sew up the opening in the casing.

Trim loose threads and give it a good press. You are done!

SEWING TUTORIALS

BUTTON FRONT MINI DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 17, 2021

We are back for the second week of Ogden Month and the second hack. Today we are going to use the Ogden cami pattern to create a short, button front dress. I’m loving how this hack turned out and can’t wait to show you how I created it.

As far as fabric goes you will need your main fabric (I am using a linen cotton blend), lightweight fusible interfacing, and about 6 5/8″ buttons.

For this hack you are going to need all of your pattern pieces. So go ahead and get those printed and ready to go.

Lets start with pattern piece 1 – the main front piece.

  • First, we need to lengthen it to a dress. I wanted mine to be a few inches above the knee and I am 5’3″. In the end I added 11 inches to the bottom and that was perfect for me (it includes a 2 inch hem). But depended on your height you may want to add more or less length.
  • Next we need to connect the side seam down to the new hem. You will free hand this, leaving a small curve for the hip. You will take more width out later once it’s sewn up and you try it on so dont be too worried about it. Just do you best as a starting point.
  • Since the Ogden is cut on the fold, we will add width for the button overlap (I will add 5/8″ for my 5/8″ buttons. This will give a little extra room around the buttons when they are centered at center front.) and also 1/2″ for the seam allowance at center front.

For the back, it is going to be cut on the fold so you do not need to worry about center back. Just extend that line straight down.

For the side seam and bottom of the back, flip the front onto the back and line up sides. Keep the grainlines the same so it stays balances and copy the side seam and bottom front the front to the back piece so they match. Super simple. Remember that you will be basting and adjusting the sides later.

Your front and back should look something like this.

Now for the linings which really are more like facings when we get done with them.

  • First copy the center front extention (5/8″ button extenttion plus 1/2″ seam allowance plus length of the dress.)
  • Next, Starting at the side seam, we are going to trim the facing so it’s about 2 21/2″ wide. Do not cut too close into the strap area. Keep the cut line a smooth curve. It should look something like this:

Do the same for he back facing.

In the end your facings should look like this:

Now cut out your pieces as follows:

  • 2 fronts main fabric
  • 1 back cut on fold main fabric
  • 2 straps main fabric
  • 2 front facings main fabric
  • 2 front facings interfacing
  • 1 back facing cut on fold main fabric
  • 1 back facing cut on fold interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to facings.

Sew up side seams of facings. Press seam allowances open. Finish the inside edge of your facing in your desired manner. I serged it.

Now sew up the main dress according to the instructions by sewing up the straps and staystitching.

With right sides touching, pin up side seams. Because we are going to be fitting the dress later, I recommend stitching the first few inches down (including finishing the seam allowance) and then basting the rest of the way to the hem. We will come back and finish the side seams after fitting them.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

With right sides touching, pin the facing to the main dress. Following the instructions for the Ogden, stitch, add in straps, trim and understitch.

The only difference is that at center front you want to stitch straight down to the hem and clip the corner seam allowance to avoid bulk.

Once it’s all turned out and pressed it should look like this:

Next, let’s address the side seam fit. Overlap the right side over the left by 1 1/4″ and pin. Try on the dress inside out and pin the side seams until you get the right fit. Trim excess and stitch the side seams accordingly. Finish seam allowances and press towards back.

Next up hem. Finish the bottom raw edge (I serged it).

With right sides touching, fold the facing back onto the main dress and pin.

Stitch the length of the facing at the height of your hem (I am sewing a 2″ hem).

Clip corners and turn right side out. This will give you a nice finish at the center front corners.

Continue to press up your hem all of the way around the dress. Pin and stitch from facing edge to facing edge.

Now we just need to add the buttons.

On the right front when wearing, mark button holes vertically down the front. The buttons holes should be at center front (5/8″ in from the folded edge) and start about 5/8″ down from the top. Sew on button holes and open them.

With the right side 1 1/4″ over of the left, mark button placement thru open buttonholes. The first button is at the top of the first buttonhole and the others are centered in the buttonholes.

Sew on buttons. Give it a good press and we are done!

I hope this Ogden hack was fun. Let me know if you have any questions.

SEWING TUTORIALS

RORY ELASTIC WAIST HACK

May 14, 2021

Today I am going to share a simple hack for the Rory Jumpsuit so you can omit the D-rings but still have some waist definition by adding a bit of elastic to the back and sides. This will work with any of the jumpsuit views, but I chose to use the shorts version with the extended sleeves.

To begin, cut out and assemble your pattern according to the instructions. Instead of sewing up the shoulder seams, sew up the side seams so that when you lay it flat, the back is in the middle and the fronts are extended on the two sides.

Take a strip of fabric that is the height of your elastic (mine is 2 inchs) plus 1 inch for seam allowances and 1/4″ for ease. So mine is 3 1/4″ tall. This will be the height of your elastic casing. The width will measure from the first front princess seam on the left, to the one on the right, plus one inch for fold under.

Press the two long edges in by 1/2″.

Press in short ends by 1/2″.

Place the strip on the inside of your jumpsuit so that it centers over the D ring markings.

Pin along long ends.

Edgestich along long ends.

Sew up the rest of the jumpsuit. I decided to wait on the buttons until the end but you can add those now if you want.

Cut a piece of elastic that is a few inches shorter than your waist- you will trim it more later.

Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it thru the casing, leaving ends extended.

Check the fit of the elastic. Dont make it too tight or it will pull on the buttons.

Once it’s right, trim and tuck the ends so that they tuck inside the short folded ends of the casing. Pin.

On the right side of your jumpsuit, stitch in the ditch of the princess seam at the section where it covers the waistband casing. Make sure it secures the elastic and closes up casing. It will look like this:

And that is it! A super easy and fun hack for the Rory Jumpsuit.

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE MAVE SKIRT SEWING PATTERN!

April 14, 2021

I am so excited to be sharing our spring pattern, the Mave Skirt, with you. The Mave is an elastic waist skirt with a drawstring, inseam pockets and an optional lining. The skirt can be made with or without ruffles and in different lengths to create numerous options including mini, midi and maxi lengths depending on your preference.

The Mave may be our most beginner friendly pattern to date. We will be doing a full sewalong in a couple of weeks too, so even the most newbie sewist should be able to handle it.

The Mave skirt currently is offered in PDF only (Although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-30. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We like light to medium weight fabrics for this pattern. This could include rayon challis, linen, voile, lawn, chiffon and georgette to name a few. If your fabric is on the sheer side we recommend sewing up the optional lining. We will be talking more about fabrics and notions next week as we prepare for the sewalong so be sure to check back for that information.

One of our favorite things about the Mave skirt is that we used options instead of views. This means that there are tons of different versions of this skirt you can sew up by cutting at different lines on the pattern pieces or lengthening, shortening or simply omitting the ruffles. The instructions clearly show you where and what to cut for each option. It gives a lot of versatility to an otherwise simple pattern.

If you would like to purchase the Mave Skirt sewing pattern, you can do so here in my shop. Use the code MAVESKIRT for 20% off of the pattern through Friday, April 23rd.

SEWING TUTORIALS

MINI SALIDA SKIRT HACK

February 25, 2021

Today on the blog I am going to show you have to very easily hack the Salida Skirt pattern to be a mini skirt. I am not much of a mini skirt person in the summer, but I do love how it looks over tights with boots in the colder months. I especially like it paired with the Nikko Top or Marlo Sweater like I did in these styled photos.

For the fabric I used a medium black washed denim with just a bit of stretch from my stash. I love a black skirt and like that the washed denim gave it a bit more of a worn in feel.

We are going to be using View A as the base and making just a few changes to the pattern including removing the back slit. First grab your back center pattern piece for View A.

Decide how much length you want to take off. It must be enough length that the slit is no longer necessary. I decided to take about 5 inches of length off which calculated to about 3 inches down from the slit dot on the center back pattern piece once you take the hem allowance into account.

Mark the new cut length.

Draw the new cut line all of the way across.

Draw another line straight down from the back seam to eliminate the slit extension.

Trim your back center pattern piece.

Trim the same amount of length off of the other front and back pattern pieces.

Now we just need to adjust the hem area of the front and back side pieces since the area that we shortened to is at an angle. We need to make sure that the new hem line has enough width to be folded up to where it’s being hemmed to. The front and back center pattern pieces are straight in that area so they do not need to be adjusted.

Tape some paper at the hem of the side pattern piece.

Fold up by 1/4″ and then again by 3/4″.

Trim along the angled side seam.

Unfold.

Repeat for other side pattern piece.

That’s it for adjustments. Go ahead and sew up you Salida skirt according to the instructions. Skip over the parts where it talks about the back slit.

When it gets to the hem, fold up by 1/4″ and then again at 3/4″. Finish by sewing close to fold.

All done! I love my new mini Salida Skirt. I want to make another one in blue denim and maybe some colors. This is definitely something that was missing from my wardrobe.