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August 7, 2019

I am back today with another pretty simple hack for the Shelby pattern. This time I wanted to try out a Shelby blouse. This is a look I have been seeing a lot in ready to wear and thought it would be the perfect match for the Shelby pattern.

To create this hack I only had to make a few simple changes. The first thing that I changed was to lengthen the ties by about 10 inches each so that I could cross them in the back and wrap them around to the front for a bow. I thought it would be a fun was to add a bit more waist definition to the blouse. It almost gives it a peplum look. It would work fine without the wrap around too, I just wanted to give it a try.

The next change I made was obviously to shorten the pattern significantly. To accomplish this I measured down from the lengthen / shorten line by about 6 inches on each seamline. This gives you a bit of a cropped look so if you want an longer blouse just add more inches.

Then I made a line about an inch long that is perpendicular to each side.

Next create a curved cut line to join the two sides.

Make sure you shorten all front and back pieces in the same manner as well as the front facing.

The last thing that I changed was the button placement. I decided this at the very end once it was hemmed and I could visually figure out what would look balanced. I ended up going with 5 buttons / buttonholes that are a bit closer together than the dress or romper simply because it was my personal preference.

And that is it. I sewed up the rest according to the directions for the Shelby dress and it all came together quite smoothly. I love the way it turned out and I think it will look great with high waisted jeans or Landers. You can find the Shelby pattern in my shop here is you would like to give it a try.



June 6, 2019

Like just about everyone else in the sewing community, I fell hard for the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I’ve made three in all and am trying to not give in to making a fourth. It’s that good.

I think the thing I like the most about the Zadie Jumpsuit is how easy it is to wear. I find that it truly is one of those items that you can dress up or down. I keep grabbing them every time I travel along with flats for daytime and wedges / statement jewelry for going out at night.

This first version is sewn up in a black cupro rayon / linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics. I am loving cupro right now because it has a nice expensive sheen to it, but with the ease of care and simple sewing of a linen.

I did have to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern. I sized down one whole size and still ended up taking some width out of the hips. I also took an inch out of the bodice length, and inch out of the rise and and inch out of the pant length. I am 5’3″ so that is not surprising.

This second version is sewn up in some rayon crepe gifted to me from The Fabric Store. It has a deconstructed dot pattern that feels a little hand drawn which I love.

Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with right now. It has a great weight to it which adds a bit of drama, but it is still easy to sew and take care of. They have a lot great rayon crepes right which are worth checking out.

For the shorts version all I did was was shorten the pattern to about the knee, and then once I was finished sewing the rest of the pattern I tried it on. Then I marked where I wanted it hemmed all the way around the leg and was able to shorten it evenly that way.

I love the way that my Zadies turned out and love wearing them. You can find the pattern at Paper Theory if you want to sew one up for yourself.



June 4, 2019

I hope you all found the Shelby Sewalong from last week helpful. I was able to find some time to get those two Shelbys photographed and wanted to show them to you.

This first Shelby is View A with the traditional longer sleeve. I used some beautiful rayon crepe from the Sewing Studio in Oregon.

I love the burnt orange color and large scale floral design.

The second Shelby is View C, the short romper, with the shorter cap sleeve.

I sewed this version up in a small daisy print that I bought from Blackbird Fabrics.

I’ve surprised myself with how much I am gravitating towards ditsy flower prints for the Shelby. The 90s flare of the design really lends itself to these types of fabric in my opinion.

That’s it. Super simple post. If you want to purchase the Shelby Dress and Romper pattern for yourself you can do so here.



June 1, 2019

It’s here, the last day of the sewalong! Not a lot to do today, just buttons and hems.

The first few steps are for hemming the dress versions, if you are sewing up the romper, skip ahead to step 32.

Step 31 – With right sides touching, turn the bottom edge of the facing to the outside along the seam where the facing and dress meet, with lower raw edges even. Pin.

Stitch along bottom edge at a 5/8″ seam allowance for the length of the facing. Backstitch at both ends.

Clip corners.

On the inside of the dress, fold the bottom raw edge up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, all the way around, including the area attached to the facing. (You are not folding up the bottom of the facing.) Press.

Turn facing right side out, turning out corner into a nice point. This will begin to fold the hem by an additional 3/8″.

Pin and press. The folded lower edge of the dress should align with the seam at the lower edge of the facing.

Stitch close to fold to secure hem, starting and stopping at edge of facing. Backstitch.

The next step is for the romper views only. If you sewing the dress, skip ahead to step 33.

Step 32 – Fold the bottom raw edge of each romper leg up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching. Press.

Fold again by 3/8″. Continue to fold up the entire hem by 3/8″. Press and pin.

Stitch close to the fold to secure.

Step 33 – Using the buttonhole placement guide, mark buttonholes on the right (when wearing) front. Note that Views A and B use seven buttons / buttonholes, while Views C and D only use five. Also keep in mind, if you shortened or lengthened the garment at all you will need to adjust the button placement and may need to add or subtract buttons. Just make sure they are equal distance apart.

I use a disappearing marker to mark by buttonhole placement.

Stitch buttonholes. I like to add fray check to my buttonholes next and let them dry before opening them.

Open your buttonholes. I use a buttonhole opener but you can use a small pair of scissors too.

Line up the centers of your garment. Mark button placement through open buttonholes on left front.

Sew buttons onto the left front.

Congrats! You are finished. Give the dress or romper a good press and you are good to go.

I hope you have found the Shelby Sewalong helpful. Be sure to tag us with your makes so we can see them!



May 30, 2019

Although technically the longer traditional sleeve is for the dress views and the shorter cap sleeve is for the romper views, you can interchange them with all of the options. Let’s go over both.

Step 25 – The first thing we need to do is gather the ease of the top of the sleeve. Baste the upper edge of the sleeve at 5/8″ seam allowance, and again at 3/8″ seam allowance. To baste you will increase your stitch length to about 5mm.

When basting, start on one side of the sleeve cap at the first notch, and continue around cap, past the shoulder notch, to the final notch on the other side of the curve. Do not backstitch. Leave the long thread tails to aid in easing.

Step 26 – For the cap sleeve, fold the bottom raw edge of the sleeve up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, and press.

Fold up by another 3/8″.

Press, and then unfold. These fold lines will make it much easier to hem your sleeve later on.

For the traditional short sleeve, fold the bottom raw edge of the sleeveup by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, and press.

Fold up by another 1/2″.

Press and then unfold. These fold lines will make it much easier to hem your sleeve later on.

Step 27 – With right sides touching (and the hem unfolded), pin and stitch the inner arm seam. Trim seam allowance to 3/8″ and finish in your desired manner (I am serging). Press the seam allowances open or towards the sleeve back.

Step 28 – Re – fold the sleeve hem along the previously pressed lines and pin.

Stitch close to the fold to secure.

Step 29 – Make sure that your sleeve is right side out and your dress/romper is inside out. Slip the coordinating sleeve into the garment and lineup the armhole openings.

Match up the underarm seam with the side seam, and place the shoulder (middle) notch at the shoulder seam. Align the outer notches and gently pull on the basting thread tails to ease the fullness of the sleeve cap into the armhole of the garment. Use your fingertips to evenly spread the small gathers, trying to make them as even as possible. Generously pin the sleeve into place

Use a the pins as anchor points for the basting stitches by wrapping the long ends around the pins in a figure 8 pattern.

Slowly stitch the armhole seam, feeding the fabric under the presser foot evenly, so there are no obvious gathers in the finished sleeve cap.

Step 30 – Remove basting stitches from sleeves. Trim seam allowances to 3/8″ and finish in desired manner. Press finished seam allowances towards the sleeve.

That is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish our Shelby’s by hemming them and sewing buttonholes / attaching buttons. Can’t wait!