Like just about everyone else in the sewing community, I fell hard for the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I’ve made three in all and am trying to not give in to making a fourth. It’s that good.
I think the thing I like the most about the Zadie Jumpsuit is how easy it is to wear. I find that it truly is one of those items that you can dress up or down. I keep grabbing them every time I travel along with flats for daytime and wedges / statement jewelry for going out at night.
This first version is sewn up in a black cupro rayon / linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics. I am loving cupro right now because it has a nice expensive sheen to it, but with the ease of care and simple sewing of a linen.
I did have to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern. I sized down one whole size and still ended up taking some width out of the hips. I also took an inch out of the bodice length, and inch out of the rise and and inch out of the pant length. I am 5’3″ so that is not surprising.
This second version is sewn up in some rayon crepe gifted to me from The Fabric Store. It has a deconstructed dot pattern that feels a little hand drawn which I love.
Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with right now. It has a great weight to it which adds a bit of drama, but it is still easy to sew and take care of. They have a lot great rayon crepes right which are worth checking out.
For the shorts version all I did was was shorten the pattern to about the knee, and then once I was finished sewing the rest of the pattern I tried it on. Then I marked where I wanted it hemmed all the way around the leg and was able to shorten it evenly that way.
I love the way that my Zadies turned out and love wearing them. You can find the pattern at Paper Theory if you want to sew one up for yourself.
It’s here, the last day of the sewalong! Not a lot to do today, just buttons and hems.
The first few steps are for hemming the dress versions, if you are sewing up the romper, skip ahead to step 32.
Step 31 – With right sides touching, turn the bottom edge of the facing to the outside along the seam where the facing and dress meet, with lower raw edges even. Pin.
Stitch along bottom edge at a 5/8″ seam allowance for the length of the facing. Backstitch at both ends.
On the inside of the dress, fold the bottom raw edge up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, all the way around, including the area attached to the facing. (You are not folding up the bottom of the facing.) Press.
Turn facing right side out, turning out corner into a nice point. This will begin to fold the hem by an additional 3/8″.
Pin and press. The folded lower edge of the dress should align with the seam at the lower edge of the facing.
Stitch close to fold to secure hem, starting and stopping at edge of facing. Backstitch.
The next step is for the romper views only. If you sewing the dress, skip ahead to step 33.
Step 32 – Fold the bottom raw edge of each romper leg up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching. Press.
Fold again by 3/8″. Continue to fold up the entire hem by 3/8″. Press and pin.
Stitch close to the fold to secure.
Step 33 – Using the buttonhole placement guide, mark buttonholes on the right (when wearing) front. Note that Views A and B use seven buttons / buttonholes, while Views C and D only use five. Also keep in mind, if you shortened or lengthened the garment at all you will need to adjust the button placement and may need to add or subtract buttons. Just make sure they are equal distance apart.
I use a disappearing marker to mark by buttonhole placement.
Stitch buttonholes. I like to add fray check to my buttonholes next and let them dry before opening them.
Open your buttonholes. I use a buttonhole opener but you can use a small pair of scissors too.
Line up the centers of your garment. Mark button placement through open buttonholes on left front.
Sew buttons onto the left front.
Congrats! You are finished. Give the dress or romper a good press and you are good to go.
I hope you have found the Shelby Sewalong helpful. Be sure to tag us with your makes so we can see them!
Although technically the longer traditional sleeve is for the dress views and the shorter cap sleeve is for the romper views, you can interchange them with all of the options. Let’s go over both.
Step 25 – The first thing we need to do is gather the ease of the top of the sleeve. Baste the upper edge of the sleeve at 5/8″ seam allowance, and again at 3/8″ seam allowance. To baste you will increase your stitch length to about 5mm.
When basting, start on one side of the sleeve cap at the first notch, and continue around cap, past the shoulder notch, to the final notch on the other side of the curve. Do not backstitch. Leave the long thread tails to aid in easing.
Step 26 – For the cap sleeve, fold the bottom raw edge of the sleeve up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, and press.
Fold up by another 3/8″.
Press, and then unfold. These fold lines will make it much easier to hem your sleeve later on.
For the traditional short sleeve, fold the bottom raw edge of the sleeveup by 1/4″, wrong sides touching, and press.
Fold up by another 1/2″.
Press and then unfold. These fold lines will make it much easier to hem your sleeve later on.
Step 27 – With right sides touching (and the hem unfolded), pin and stitch the inner arm seam. Trim seam allowance to 3/8″ and finish in your desired manner (I am serging). Press the seam allowances open or towards the sleeve back.
Step 28 – Re – fold the sleeve hem along the previously pressed lines and pin.
Stitch close to the fold to secure.
Step 29 – Make sure that your sleeve is right side out and your dress/romper is inside out. Slip the coordinating sleeve into the garment and lineup the armhole openings.
Match up the underarm seam with the side seam, and place the shoulder (middle) notch at the shoulder seam. Align the outer notches and gently pull on the basting thread tails to ease the fullness of the sleeve cap into the armhole of the garment. Use your fingertips to evenly spread the small gathers, trying to make them as even as possible. Generously pin the sleeve into place
Use a the pins as anchor points for the basting stitches by wrapping the long ends around the pins in a figure 8 pattern.
Slowly stitch the armhole seam, feeding the fabric under the presser foot evenly, so there are no obvious gathers in the finished sleeve cap.
Step 30 – Remove basting stitches from sleeves. Trim seam allowances to 3/8″ and finish in desired manner. Press finished seam allowances towards the sleeve.
That is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish our Shelby’s by hemming them and sewing buttonholes / attaching buttons. Can’t wait!
Today in the Shelby Sewalong we are going to be attaching the facing. This is probably the hardest part of the instructions, especially if you are sewing up the romper views, so that is all that we are going to tackle today. I recommend taking it slow and pressing often and you should be fine.
First we will go over the steps for the Romper views, if you are sewing up the dress, skip ahead to step 21.
Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the assembled neck facing to the neck edge of the romper, aligning inner raw edges, and matching shoulder seams, notches, and circles. Sometimes the facing or romper gets a bit stretched out with handling. In this case you will need to ease that back in so pin a lot.
Starting at one circle, stitch around the entire neckline at a normal 1/2″ seam allowance, pivoting at the lower corners, and finishing at the the circle on the opposite side. Backstitch at both ends to secure.
This is a tricky step for sure. You need to be extra careful when sewing up to the dot at the bottom of the facing that you are keeping the opposite side out of the way. Otherwise you will get a pucker right there. It’s hard to see in the picture but each side should be completely free of the other, but sewn right up to one another at the dots.
Step 16 – The help the neckline have a smooth finish once turned and pressed, grade the neck seam allowance, and notch along the curved portion of the seam. Trim around the center front top curve. The amount of trimming and notching you need to do depends on the weight of your fabric. If its pretty lightweight like mine you don’t need to be intense about it, but if your fabric is a bit more structured like a linen, make sure you really grade and trim a lot. This will make a huge difference on how smooth your finished neckline looks once turned.
You also need to trim the angle at each lower corner to reduce bulk once its turned.
Press the unfinished seam allowance below the dot up on each facing so that the raw edge is not exposed once it’s turned to the inside of the romper.
Step 17 – To help the facing stay tucked neatly to the inside of the romper, press the seam allowance towards the facing and away from the main romper. Understitch where possible. It is hard to understitch at curves or angles, so I start 1″above the lower edge of the front facing, and understitch to within 1″ of the neckline curve. Start again as close as possible to the front edge of the neckline, and stitch around the remainder of the neckline. Continue down the other side of the front facing in the same manner.
Step 18 – Turn the entire neck facing to the inside of the romper, rolling the facing slightly to the inside.
Take extra care in turning out the lower corner to get it sharp. Make sure that the bottom edge of the facing is still turned up and tucked away nicely so no raw edges are showing. Press.
Step 19 – With the romper right side out, lap the right front over the left (when wearing), matching up the centers, and pin. Stitch through all layers 1/8″ from the edge to secure.
Step 20 – To help secure the facing to the romper, stitch in the ditch through all layers for a few stitches at the shoulder and center back seams through all layers. You can also do this by hand for less visible stitches.
That is it for the Romper views for today. The rest of the steps are for the Dress views only.
Step 21 – With right sides touching, pin the assembled neck facing to the neck edge of the dress, aligning inner and lower raw edges, and matching should seams and notches.
Starting at the bottom of the dress on one side, stitch along the front opening edge, and around the entire neckline. Finish stitching at the other bottom edge, backstitching at both ends to secure.
Step 22 – The help the neckline have a smooth finish once turned and pressed, grade the neck seam allowance, and notch along the curved portion of the seam. Trim around the center front top curve. The amount of trimming and notching you need to do depends on the weight of your fabric. If its pretty lightweight like mine you don’t need to be intense about it, but if your fabric is a bit more structured like a linen, make sure you really grade and trim a lot. This will make a huge difference on how smooth your finished neckline looks once turned.
Step 23 – To help the facing stay tucked neatly to the inside of the dress, press the seam allowance towards the facing and away from the main dress. Understitch where possible. It is hard to understitch at sharp curves or so I start at the bottom of the front facing, and understitch to within 1″ of the neckline curve. Start again as close as possible to the front edge of the neckline, and stitch around the remainder of the neckline. Continue down the other side of the front facing in the same manner.
Step 24 – To help secure the facing to the dress, stitch in the ditch through all layers for a few stitches at the shoulder seams. You can also do this by hand for less visible stitches.
That is it, we are done for today. Tomorrow we will take care of the sleeves. We are so close to being finished!