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SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 2

September 21, 2021

Welcome back for day 2 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we do the majority of the sewing for Views C and D. If you are sewing Views A or B, skip this post and come back tomorrow.

With right sides touching, pin one front to its coordinating back at the inner leg seam. Stitch.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner and press open or towards one side. Repeat for other leg.

Open up each leg along the inner seam. With right sides touching, lay one leg on top of the other, matching up the seams and notches. Pin along the crotch seam.

Stitch from one end to the other.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner. Press open or towards one side.

With the front and back right sides touching, match up and pin along the side seams and pockets. Be extra careful that the dots and inseam pocket seamlines for the front and back line up. Pin generously.

Starting at the upper edge of the short / pant on one side, stitch down to the first dot, using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Backstitch.

Start again at the second dot, backstitch and stitch down to the hem, using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Note that this new stitch line is 1/8″ in from the seam attaching the inseam pocket. This allows the pocket to stay hidden in the side of the shorts / pants.

Stitch around the outside edge of the pocket, starting at the top outside edge and ending at the side seam stitchline. Backstitch at both ends. Repeat steps 14 and 15 for other side / pocket.

Press pockets and seam allowances towards the front short / pant. Baste along the top edge at 3/8″ to temporarily secure it in place.

With right sides touching, pin the waistband together at center back. Stitch center back seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and press open.

With wrong sides touching, fold the waistband in half lengthwise, matching seams and notches. Press.

Starting at center back, stitch through all layers, 1/4″ from the folded edge, all of the way around, ending at center back, and backstitching. This creates the small paperbag effect on the waistband.

Pin the waistband to the right side of the short / pant center back seams. Match notches with side seams and center front.

Stitch the waistband seam, leaving a 4″ opening at center back, as pictured below.

Cut a length of elastic according to the elastic cut chart on page 2 of the pattern instructions. Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″ and stitch to secure. (Note: It’s a good idea to try on your short / pant to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

Sew the opening closed in the waistband seam, stretching slightly so the fabric lies flat as you sew.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner and press down towards short / pant.

Evenly distribute gathers around the waistband. Press and pin to keep the gathers in place. If you havn’t done so already, mark the stitch lines on the outside of the waistband.

With an elongated stretch stitch, start at center back and stitch through all layers along the two lower stitch lines, stretching the waistband flat as you go, and ending at center back. Backstitch at both ends.

That is all for today. The next couple of days will be dedicated to Views A and B. For views C and D, come back on Friday where we will hem and cuff your Dani.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 1

September 20, 2021

Welcome to day 1 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we will be tackling steps 1-10 which include inseam and rear pockets. These steps apply to all views of the Dani.

Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches, dots, and topstitching guides from your pattern pieces to your fabric.

Fuse the rear pocket interfacing to the wrong side of each rear pocket, 1/4″ down from the top and just above the notches.

With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of each rear pocket down by 1/4″ and press.

With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pockets at the notches. Pin.

Stitch the side edges of each pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 1/2″ seam allowance. Clip corners.

Turn the upper corners of each rear pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Press in the bottom and two outside edges by 1/2″ (wrong sides touching).

To secure the fold, stitch close to the lower pressed edge of each rear pocket, backstitching at the ends.

With right sides facing up, pin each rear pocket to the back short/pant, matching the upper corners of each pocket to the placement dot markings. Carefully pin in place.

To secure the pockets, stitch close to the folded edge of the bottom and side edges. At the bottom two corners, leave your needle down, pivot and continue sewing. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.

That is all for the rear pockets. Next up the inseam pockets.

Fold the inside long edge (the edge without notches) of each of the two inseam pocket facings towards the wrong side by 1/4″.

Pin the facings on top of one pair of inseam pockets along the notched outside edge. The wrong side of the facing should be touching the right side of the pocket.

Edgestitch along the facing folds, through all layers, as shown below.

Finish the outside curved edge of each of the four inseam pockets in your desired manner. I am using my serger.

Pin the two inseam pockets with the attached facings, right sides touching, to the backs, matching side seam notches.

Stitch using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (Attaching the pockets with a smaller seam allowance allows them to tuck inside of the side seams and remain invisible.

Finish the seam allowances of the entire side edge of each back in your desired manner, making sure to secure the pocket seam allowances in the finishing.

Press pockets away from each back, over the seam allowances.

Understitch each pocket by stitching close to the pocket seam through all layers, securing seam allowances underneath.

You can put your back pieces away for now. Grab your fronts and inseam pocket interfacings.

Fuse the inseam pocket interfacings to the wrong side of each front side seam, matching notches.

Attach the remaining two inseam pockets to the fronts by repeating the previous four steps.

This includes pinning the pockets right sides touching to the fronts.

Stitch at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Finish the side seams in your desired manner. I am serging mine.

Press pockets and seam allowances away from front. Understitch next to the fold.

That is all for today. Come back tomorrow for day two of the Dani Sewalong.

SEWALONG SEWING

DANI FABRIC AND NOTIONS

September 14, 2021

Thank you so much for the enthusiastic response to the Dani short and pant sewing pattern. Today I wanted to go over the fabric and notions recommended for this pattern to give you the best results possible for your Dani.

The main fabric for the Dani should be a medium weight nonstretch woven. All of my samples were sewn up in linen / rayon blends, the two below are brussels washer linen, but you could also use cottons, twills, wool and any other medium weight fabric that will give you a nice crisp press. I would avoid polyester or any other fabrics that won’t press well due to the cuff at the bottom.

You will also want to source 1/3 yd of fabric for the pockets. I prefer a lightweight woven like cotton lawn or cotton voile so that it doesn’t add any bulk, but you can also use rayon challis or rayon bemberg. Quilting cotton is a bit on the heavier side for the pockets, but could be used in a pinch.

You will also want some lightweight fusible interfacing. My favorite is tricot, but any lightweight fusible will do.

All views will need a coordinating all purpose thread, 2 inch wide elastic, a safety pin for inserting your elastic, and a fresh needle for your sewing machine.

For Views A and B you will also need few other notions. You will need a zipper. Make sure to check your pattern to see what size zipper to buy. You shouldn’t have to shorten your zipper if you buy the recommended length. I recommend the basic plastic zipper and not the metal one. Metal zippers are best for jeans and I have found that they are a little heavy for a lighter weight garment. It’s best to find a zipper that coordinates with your fabric, but it should not be visible on the finished garment so don’t worry too much about that.

Views A and B also have two 5/8″ buttons to complete the waistband / zip fly. This is a really fun way to add interest if you can find some fun buttons. Although honestly, I usually just go with the classic tortoise shell ones. You can choose to source smaller or larger buttons if you want, just make sure that you adjust the buttonholes to match.

That should be it. Let me know if you have any questions. We will have our whole sewalong for the Dani on the blog next week.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 4

January 28, 2021

Welcome back to day 4 – the last day of the Marlo Sewalong.

Grab your buttonhole guide as well as your buttons. You will also need some kind of marking tool like a fabric pen or chalk pencil.

Using the buttonhole guide, mark the buttonholes on the right front (when wearing). I find that the easiest way to do this is to fold your guide in half and place it along the neckband.

Next sew buttonholes on the right front. I recommend practicing on scrap fabric first. Open up your buttonholes.

Mark coordinating buttons on left front (when wearing). Note that the buttons are placed towards the top of the buttonhole openings (not in the middle). I like to use the buttonhole openings to mark the button placement but you can also use the guide.

Sew buttons on to the left front.

Now to finish up the wristbands. With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half, lengthwise. Press.

Open Wristband back up.

With right sides, together, pin short ends of Wristband together.

Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press seam allowances open or to one side.

With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half along original press line. Press again.

Pin folded Wristband to lower edge of sleeve, matching seam on Wristband to underarm seam and stretching band to fit. Pin in place.

Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press wristband down and seam allowances up toward sleeve.

And that is it! Give your Marlo Sweater a final press, clip any loose thread, and wear it proudly.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

Marlo Sewalong Day 3

January 27, 2021

Welcome back for day 3 of the Marlo Sweater Sewalong.

There are two methods for attaching the neckband. Option 1 is the beginner method and best for fabrics that are thick or tend to unravel. Option 2 is the intermediate method. It has a cleaner finish on the inside of your sweater and works best if your fabric is thinner and presses well. We will be going over both methods in the sewalong.

NECKBAND OPTION 1 (EASY)

With right sides touching, fold bottom edge of Neck Band in half lengthwise, and pin.

Serge or sew bottom edge at 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch or straight stitch.

Trim seam allowance and turn bottom edge of Neck Band right side out. Press carefully to create a nice, sharp right angle.

With right sides touching, pin the folded Neck Band to the opening edge of the sweater, aligning raw edges. (Note: The side of the Neck Band with the interfacing should be against the right side of the sweater).

Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch ant the bottom edge. The bottom of the neckband should be flush with the bottom of the waistband. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.

Serge or sew the Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.

Press the seam allowance toward the sweater.

On the front of your sweater, topstitch the sweater close to Neck Band seam to secure seam allowances, as pictured.

NECKBAND OPTION 2 (INTERMEDIATE)

Open up the pressed Neck Band. On the side without interfacing, turn the long edge in by 3/8″ as pictured.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded side of the Neck Band to the sweater along neckline, carefully matching notches. The bottom edge of the Neck Band should extend past the bottom of the waistband by 3/8″.

Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch and bottom edge. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.

Serge or sew Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.

Press seam allowances toward Neck Band.

With right sides touching, fold the lower edge of the Neck Band in half, placing turned-in edge just slightly over the seamline, as pictured. Pin in place.

Stitch across the lower edge of the Neck Band at 3/8″ seam allowance, being careful to place your line of stitching just below the edge of your waistband. Repeat for other lower edge of Neck Band.

Trim edges to reduce bulk. Turn Neck Band right side out.

Following the original press line, turn the Neck Band toward the inside of the sweater, placing the inner folded edge just over the seamline. Place pins on the outside of the Neck Band all the way around to secure, as pictured.

To secure, on the outside, edgestitch the Neck Band 1/8″ inside the seamline, catching the folded edge of the Neck Band facing underneath.

That’s it for today. We are so close! Tomorrow we will attach the cuffs and the buttons / buttonholes. Can’t wait.