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MAKES OUR PATTERNS SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE MARLOS

October 25, 2021

This week I sewed up the third and fourth items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. This time I decided to sew up my Marlo sweaters.

The plan was to sew two. I decided to sew up the longer view in the black sweater knit. This sweater knit grew quite a bit while I was sewing it up. It also has a heavy drape, so it also grew a bit in length.

The end result is a nice, oversized grandpa style sweater that I love. I already have been wearing it ton. It worked great with leggings and a tank for an easy weekend outfit. Plus it keeps me nice and cozy.

The second Marlo that I sewed up, is the short cropped view. I used a more stable sweater knit for the main Marlo. For the bands I used a matching, thick rib knit.

The end result is a much more structured Marlo than the first. It almost feels like a jacket, more than a sweater. It feels a bit more dressy that the other. I love them both in different ways.

OK, that is it. I can’t wait to keep sewing on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe later this week.

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE RIOS WITH LONG SLEEVES

October 15, 2021

This week I sewed up the first two items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. I decided to start easy and begin with the two Rio Ringer T-shirts that were on the list.

For both of them, the plan was to use the crew neck / long sleeve hack that I did last year. You can find that blog post here which contains the tutorial. I won’t be going over the entire tutorial here since it is already in a blog post, but essentially I used the same fabric for the neckband as I did for the main shirt to create that crew neck look. For the long sleeves, I attached the Nikko sleeve to the Rio sleeve to add the long sleeve length.

Both of the fabrics were from my stash and unfortunately I don’t remember where I sourced them from. The light gray rib knit feels like a rayon or bamboo blend. It is lightweight and has a nice drape.

I was a bit worried that it would be too clingy in the end, but I actually love the result. It feels wonderful against the skin and very high end. I think this one will get so much wear as a layering piece. It feels like the perfect basic.

The striped knit feels a bit more synthetic to me. If I had to guess it is some sort of polyester blend which I normally avoid, but this stripe was too good to pass up. And, I actually think that the poly adds some structure to the rib knit that is quite nice.

I spent some time making sure that the stripes matched up, but other than that is was a super simple and fast sew. I love the retro feel to this one and think it’s going to pair so well with my Landers.

OK, that is it. These were fast sews which has me super excited to keep going on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe sewing next week.

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PLANNING SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

TRUE BIAS FALL CAPSULE WARDROBE PLAN

October 8, 2021

It been a while since I have felt super excited about sewing anything but loungewear, but I am finally feeling the itch to sew “outside” clothes again. I decided to go big, so I put together a fall wardrobe plan for this year using only True Bias patterns.

Here are some of the rules I put together for myself as I planned out my capsule wardrobe.

1 – Only True Bias patterns (Hacks are OK) – Honestly, I can’t believe I have enough patterns to do a capsule wardrobe with them. This feels a bit like a milestone to me, but I digress. To get more mileage out of each pattern I am allowing hacks. Most of these hacks you will be able to find on my blog and I will link to all of them in case you want to do a similar look for yourself.

2 – Tight Color Palette With Mostly Solids – Keeping a really small color palette will let me mix and match these items the most. I landed on a fall color palette with rust, camel, gray, black and ivory as the main colors. Luckily these are the colors I already like to wear so it was not a hard choice. I am allowing a few prints in the mix to keep it interesting. I tried to keep them pretty tame though so they can go with as many things as possible.

3 – No Skirts or Dresses – I went back and forth on this one, but decided not to include skirts and dresses to keep the capsule very everyday wearable. I wear a lot of skirts and dresses in the warmer months, but Colorado gets cold fast and I just tend to avoid them this time of year. Also, with Covid still in our lives, I’m not doing a lot of going out so they just seemed unnecessary. With patterns like the Roscoe and Nikko that include dresses, I opted for the top version of those patterns.

4 – 13 Sewn Items Total – It was hard to narrow down, but 13 sewn items seemed like the right balance of enough items to have lots to mix and match and a small enough number that I could reasonably sew them all over the next few months. Keep in mind, that since these are all my patterns, I have sewn them many times and will not need to do any muslining. Whenever there is a pattern that I am sewing multiples of, I will batch sew them. These two facts make it much easier for me to sew this many items in just a few months. Also keep in mind that I am not including undergarments or any kinds of accessories in my total.

TOPS

Nikko Top (2)

  • black and white stripe ribbing – I’m thinking about cropping this one to just around the waist so there is not as much to tuck in, but otherwise it will be sewn straight from the envelope.
  • black knit – Last year I sewed up the Nikko using a square neck hack and I love it. This year I want to do the same thing but with a scoop instead of the square neck. I also want to scoop the back for a ballerina type look.

Roscoe Blouse (2)

  • rust cotton lawn – I will be sewing both of these blouses using the button front hack tutorial by Tessuti which you can find here.
  • ivory rayon crepe – I think this will be such a great basic. I will be using the button front Tessuti tutorial for this one too.

Rio Ringer T-shirt (2)

  • retro stripe ribbing – This will be sewn up using my long sleeve crew Rio hack from my blog which you can find here. I love this retro stripe and think it will be a big hitter in my wardrobe.
  • light gray ribbing – I decided I needed another basic layering piece and this light gray seemed to fit the bill. I will be using the crew long sleeve hack again for this one.

Marlo Sweater (2)

  • black sweater knit – I think this black Marlo is going to get so much wear. I will sew up the longer view of the pattern for this one.
  • rust sweater knit and ribbing – This really is the perfect color and can’t wait to wear this one. I will sew up the shorter version of the pattern for this color.

BOTTOMS

Lander Pant (2)

  • denim – I’ve been needing a classic pair of Landers for awhile. The plan is to sew this one straight from the envelope with buttons, patch pockets and all.
  • plaid suiting – I’m obsessed with the plaid 70s look and think it will be great for Landers. Since this fabric is closer to 7oz I am going to use the zipper expansion and omit the pockets for a cleaner look (and no plaid pattern matching). I also have some lining I can add if I think it needs more structure.

Dani Pant (2)

  • camel corduroy – I’ve been wanting a more weather appropriate pair of Danis since I drafted this pattern and think that a lightweight corduroy is perfect. The corduroy has a thin 21 whale and is only about 4oz (more of a shirting weight) so I don’t think it will be too bulky around the gathered waistline. At least that is what I am hoping.
  • plaid suiting – I am so excited about these plaid Danis. I am going to add belt loops to this pair so that I wear a belt with it for a bit more dressed up look.

Hudson Pant (1)

  • black sweater knit – This faux cashmere sweater knit has such a beautiful feel to it. I immediately thought it would make a luxurious pair of Hudsons. I’ve never used a sweater knit for the Hudsons before, but think it will make it feel a bit more upscale which I am excited about. I think this will be fun to style too.

OK, that is it. I’m not sure exactly how long it will take me to sew these all up, but I expect 2-3 months. I will be sharing all of my final makes here and will be documenting the process on instagram. Once done, I will mix and match all of the items to make as many outfits as possible and will show them all to you here. Can’t wait to get sewing!

OUR PATTERNS SEWING FOR ADULTS

INTRODUCING THE DANI SHORT & PANT

September 8, 2021

I am so excited to be introducing our newest pattern to you, the Dani short and pant. That Dani has an elastic waist, inseam and rear pockets, a small paperbag waist, and a cuff.

Views A and C are shorts with an approximate 3 inch inseam, while views B and D are pants with an approximate 27.5″ inseam.

Views A and B use a zip fly construction with two small buttons at the waist. These views are a bit more difficult and are best sewn up by the intermediate sewist.

Views C and D use a simple pull on, full elastic waist construction that is perfect for the beginner sewist or as a way to check fit before moving on to the fly option.

We will be going over fabric and notions more thoroughly in a future post, but for now, just know that this pattern is perfect for medium weight non stretch wovens. All of our samples are sewn up in linen rayon blends, but we also think that cottons and twills would work great. Just avoid any wovens that are too thick or rigid as they will create a lot of extra bulk at the gathered waistline.

The Dani is currently offered in PDF only (although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-32. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We will have a full sewalong in a couple of weeks if you would like help sewing it up. In the meantime, you can purchase the Dani here on sale through Sunday, Sept. 19th (no code needed).

OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

CURVED HEM MAVE HACK TUTORIAL

August 27, 2021

Apparently I can’t get enough of the Mave skirt, because I am back today with another hack for you. Today I will show you how to simply adjust the pattern for a curved hem look instead of the straight hem it comes drafted as.

You will need pattern piece 1 – (front and back). No other pattern pieces will be changed and you won’t be using any of the ruffles for this hack.

First, decide were you want the top of your curve to end at the side seams. This is essentially the top of your slit. I decided I wanted it to end about an inch below the mini cut line. Make a dot marking at this spot, 1/2″ in from the cut edge so it lands on the stitch line.

Next, decide how long you want the skirt in the front and back and make a horizontal line to mark this at center front / back. I decided this would look better if it hit a bit shorter than maxi so my marking is a few inches up from the bottom.

Now it’s time to free hand. Connect the bottom horizontal line to the side seam in a big, softly curving line. The top of the curved line should intersect the side seam just before the dot (which is on the stitch line).

Trim your new hem line.

Cut out your pattern pieces and start to assemble and sew your Mave skirt according the directions, except for the following changes made to the side seam and hem.

First, when you are finishing the side seam alllowances, stop the finishing at the dot. Sew your side seams down to the dot and back stitch to secure.

Finish the hems of both the front and back by first folding in by 1/4″ and pressing and then folding again at 1/4″ and pressing. Pin. Note that the seam allowances above the dot are both pressed towards the front as written in the instructions. At and below the dot, press seam allowances open to accommodate the hem as shown below.

Stitch the hem close to the inside folded edge. When you get to the dot, leave your needle down, pivot, stitch across just above dot, leave your needle, pivot, and stitch back around the other side or your hem. This will keep everything nice and flat and secure.

Give everything a good press and you are done.