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SEVENTIES INSPIRED PATCH POCKET LANDER TUTORIAL

February 6, 2020

The Lander Pant and Short is the perfect blank canvas to create a very 70’s inspired patch pocket pant or short. Whether using the original button fly pattern or the zipper expansion, with just a few changes and the free patch pocket download (below), you will be all set.

The first thing I recommend doing is leaving off both the original front and back pockets. You will be replacing the front pockets with the patch pocket pattern pieces and I would just leave off the back pockets all together. This really adds to the 70’s look of the pant.

Go ahead and sew up your Landers through the creation of the fly. I recommend adding the patch pockets at the step where you baste the side seams of your Landers. This means pausing after step 19 in the original instructions and after step 26 in the zipper expansion instructions. Once you get to this step, set your pants or shorts aside and create your pockets.

A few things about the patch pocket pattern pieces. They come in sizes small, medium and large and recommended size ranges for each one. These are just suggestions though. You could use any of these pattern pieces on any size of Lander depending on how big you want to your pocket to be. This is your own personal preference. For reference, both of my samples were sewn with the small pocket sizes on a size 6 pant. I think next time I will try the medium size.

Another thing to note is that there are two different shapes to choose from. The angled pocket and the rounded pocket. The construction is very similar, although I would say that the angled pocket is a bit easier, so keep that in mind when choosing.

Click on the link below to access the pdf file. Print your pattern pieces off making sure you are using no scaling and printing at 100%. Cut out two coordinating pockets from your main fabric and make sure to mark your notches.

https://www.truebias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/TRUE-BIAS-LANDER-PATCH-POCKET-1.pdf

Unless stated the following instructions apply to both the angled and rounded patch pocket patterns.

Step 1 – With wrong sides touching, press in the top edge by 1/4″.

Step 2 – Take this folded edge and press it back at the notches, right sides touching. Pin in place on each side.

Step 3

Angled Pocket Only – Starting at the upper right hand corner, stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance down the right side, around the bottom, and up the left side, pivoting at each corner and backstitching at the beginning and end.

Rounded Pocket Only – Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the upper left and right sides for the distance of the folded down band backstitching to secure.

Rounded Pocket Only – Starting and stopping below the band and using a basting or gather stitch length, stitch around the sides and bottom of the rounded pocket in 1/2″ seam allowance. Slightly pull on the top thread to “gather” the bottom rounded section of the pocket. This will help turn in the seam allowance smoothly.

Step 4 – Clip the top corners and turn the folded edge right side out. Fold in the seam allowance at the stitching line. Give it a good press.

Step 5 – Topstitch along the bottom folded edge of the band to secure as shown in the picture.

Step 6 – Now it is time the attach the pockets to the front of your Landers. Like I mentioned before, the best time to do this is when you are basting the side seams for fit. I recommend pinning them on where you think they should go first. This is personal preference and takes some trial and error, but just to give you a ball park, mine were about 3 inches from center front and 2 inches from the top raw edge of my Lander fronts. Once they are pinned on, baste the sides seams of your Landers and try them on. Adjust the position of your pockets as necessary.

Step 7 – Once you are happy with the placement, pin them to secure. Pay extra attention to measuring their placement so they are equal from center front and the top. The fly can make them look unbalanced so you really have to trust your ruler for this step. Rip out the basting on the sides seams of your Landers and topstitch the sides and bottom of the patch pockets on. Do this before you sew up your sides in it’s final stitch length.


That is it! Sew up your Landers according to the normal instructions and you are good to go.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

ROSCOE NOW AVAILABLE IN SIZES 0 – 30

December 12, 2019

We are very excited to announce the release of a more inclusive size range for our Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewing pattern. The Roscoe has always been a fan favorite, so when we were asking which patterns you would like to see in the new 14-30 size range first, the Roscoe was top of the list. We are so glad that we were able to get this to you just in time to make one up for those holiday parties and events at the end of the year.

The 14 – 30 size range of the Roscoe is drafted for a D cup, instead of the C cup in our original 0 – 18 size range. Other than that, the style, overall look, and instructions are the same. Just like the original pattern, the style is oversized with lots and lots of ease so I do recommend sizing down if you want a slightly more fitted look or if your fabric has more stability like a lawn or linen.

My favorite fabric to use for the Roscoe is rayon challis or rayon crepe. I used rayon crepe from The Fabric Store for both of these samples and the drape and weight of this fabric gives the optimal amount of drama and movement.

If you have bought the Roscoe from us in the past, you do not need to rebuy the extended range. You will be getting an email from us including the new size range for free.

Both size ranges of the Roscoe PDF are 20% off thru this Sunday, December 15th with the code ROSCOELOVE.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LODO DRESS NEW SIZE RANGE

November 5, 2019

We are very excited to announce the launch of a new and improved size range for the Lodo dress sewing pattern. You can now purchase the Lodo in either a size range of 0 – 18 with a C cup or a size range of 14 – 30 and a D cup. The Lodo is our first pattern that has our new size range and we couldn’t be happier with the result. We are currently working on some of our other patterns behind the scenes and can’t wait to show those to you soon.

You may wonder how the size 14 – 30 version differs from the original size 0 – 18 design. The answer is not very much. Our size 14 – 30 size chart and block has a slightly more curvy set of dimensions than our size 0 – 18 block. As a result it is drafted for a D instead of a C cup (meaning a 4″ rather than a 3″ difference between your full and high bust) and has a 1″ larger difference between the waist and hip circumference. Both size ranges are drafted for an average height of 5’5″. You can see our new size chart below.

To accommodate the fuller bust on our new block, we added a bust dart to the 14 – 30 size range of the Lodo. Not only does this give you a bit more room in the bust area, but it also gives you a place to make adjustments for fuller or smaller busts if needed.

Other than the dart, the shape and design of the Lodo should look just the same as the 0 – 18 design. It has a subtle cocoon shape to the body of the dress, hitting a couple of inches above the knee for View B and mid-calf for View A. View A also has a center back slit for movability.

This updated and slightly more sophisticated version of a T-shirt dress is best sewn up in structured knits such as ponte, scuba, and double knit . with an approximate 25% amount of stretch. It’s an easy sew that we think is perfect for all of the holiday events coming up.

Both PDF size ranges for the Lodo are 20% off through Sunday, November 10th (no code needed). You can find the Lodo in both size ranges in our shop here.

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE CALVIN WRAP TOP & DRESS PATTERN

August 19, 2019

I am so excited to show you the newest True Bias pattern, the Calvin Wrap Dress & Top. The Calvin comes in two views. View A is a top hitting a couple of inches below the natural waist and it pairs wonderfully with high waisted pants such as the Landers. View B is a straight dress ending around mid calf.

Both views have exposed bias binding that finishes the wrap edges, creates the shoulder straps, and extends into the ties. You can either use the same fabric as your main garment for a streamlined look, or use a contrasting fabric for your binding for some added interest. This is a great way to use up stash fabric when you only have a small about of yardage to work with.

It’s a simple pattern with some really fun elements including instructions for a threadloop chain to hold your waist ties in place and ring and sliders used on the straps for easy fitting.

The Calvin works great for a lot of different types of fabric. We are offering a small amount of kits for the Calvin in overstock rayon crepe which is a wonderful lightweight fabric for an elevated look. If you want something more casual, I recommend linen or cottons. The Calvin does not require fabric with drape so a simple cotton or cotton blend works wonderful and is a more beginner friendly option.

I will have a full sewalong including fabric recommendations and some fun hacks for the Calvin starting the first week of September. In the meantime, you can purchase your pattern here in either a PDF or paper format. The pdf pattern is on sale (no code necessary) for the next week, ending on August 27th. If you would like to purchase a kit you can also do that through my shop here.

MAKES SEWING

FRISCO JUMPSUIT IN RAYON TWILL

August 15, 2019

I sewed up the new Frisco Jumpsuit pattern from Threadbear Garments this week and I love it. It’s such an easy to wear style that can be dressed up or down. I wore it with heels here, but expect to throw it on with flat sandals most of the time for a put together every day casual look.

I measured in as a size 6 C cup according to Leslie’s size chart so that is what I cut out and sewed. I would say that was very accurate. I am only 5’3″ and the pattern is drafted for someone who is 5’7″ so I obviously had to make a lot of changes to the length of the pattern. Here are the changes I made in length :

  • 1.5″ from the straps
  • 0.5″ from the front bodice
  • 3/4″ from the side of bodice
  • 1″ from the back of the bodice
  • 1.5″ from the rise of the pant
  • no changes to leg length but I did a 3″ hem

The other change I made was to eliminate the front D ring tie from the style of the pattern. It’s an easy change if you want to do the same thing. Leslie already gives you a front and back waistband lining pattern pieces. So you just cut two of each of those on the fold instead of just the lining. Use one of each as the lining and one of each as the main waistband piece. Then you sew it up like a normal elastic waistband where you leave and opening to insert the elastic at the end. You will also need to cut an elastic for the waist that wraps around your entire waist instead of just the back as the original pattern has you do.

That’s it! It was a really fun sew. I made all of changes that I mentioned to my actual pattern pieces so I can easily recreate this in a linen next summer. I expect this to get a ton of wear. You can find the Frisco pattern on Threadbear Garments site here.