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SEWALONG

SEWALONG SEWING

DANI FABRIC AND NOTIONS

September 14, 2021

Thank you so much for the enthusiastic response to the Dani short and pant sewing pattern. Today I wanted to go over the fabric and notions recommended for this pattern to give you the best results possible for your Dani.

The main fabric for the Dani should be a medium weight nonstretch woven. All of my samples were sewn up in linen / rayon blends, the two below are brussels washer linen, but you could also use cottons, twills, wool and any other medium weight fabric that will give you a nice crisp press. I would avoid polyester or any other fabrics that won’t press well due to the cuff at the bottom.

You will also want to source 1/3 yd of fabric for the pockets. I prefer a lightweight woven like cotton lawn or cotton voile so that it doesn’t add any bulk, but you can also use rayon challis or rayon bemberg. Quilting cotton is a bit on the heavier side for the pockets, but could be used in a pinch.

You will also want some lightweight fusible interfacing. My favorite is tricot, but any lightweight fusible will do.

All views will need a coordinating all purpose thread, 2 inch wide elastic, a safety pin for inserting your elastic, and a fresh needle for your sewing machine.

For Views A and B you will also need few other notions. You will need a zipper. Make sure to check your pattern to see what size zipper to buy. You shouldn’t have to shorten your zipper if you buy the recommended length. I recommend the basic plastic zipper and not the metal one. Metal zippers are best for jeans and I have found that they are a little heavy for a lighter weight garment. It’s best to find a zipper that coordinates with your fabric, but it should not be visible on the finished garment so don’t worry too much about that.

Views A and B also have two 5/8″ buttons to complete the waistband / zip fly. This is a really fun way to add interest if you can find some fun buttons. Although honestly, I usually just go with the classic tortoise shell ones. You can choose to source smaller or larger buttons if you want, just make sure that you adjust the buttonholes to match.

That should be it. Let me know if you have any questions. We will have our whole sewalong for the Dani on the blog next week.

SEWALONG TUTORIALS

Mave Sewalong Day 4 – Hemming & Finishing Touches

April 29, 2021

It’s the last day of the Mave Sewalong. It will be a short day and by the end we will have a finished skirt. Let’s get sewing.

Attach a safety pin securely to one end of the drawstring. Insert through one buttonhole and feed through the channel, pulling the safety pin out through the other buttonhole. Pull drawstring until ends are even.

Try on your skirt and check the length of your drawstrings. Trim if necessary.

There are a few ways to finish the ends of the drawstring.

You can finish it with aglets.

Or you can thread some beads on the drawstring and tie an end at the bottom. You can let the ends fray natrually over time. I thin that macrame beads are a great option for this because they generally have a larger hole.

Or just fold the drawstring ends and stitch them. To do this fold by 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and press.

It can be hard to sew these small sections of fabric and I have found that by putting a piece of paper under your drawstrings when sewing, it really helps.

Try on your skirt to check length. Trim if necessary. Finish the hem of your main skirt by pressing the raw edge towards the wrong side at 1/4.” Turn it up again by 1/4.” Pin and press. Edgestitch along this folded line to secure.

If using a lining, the lining should be about 1/4″ shorter than the main skirt so it is not seen. Trim lining if necessary and hem in the same manner as the main skirt. Note: the main and lining hems should be facing one another.

You’re finished! I hope the Mave sewalong was helpful. Give the whole skirt a nice press and it’s ready to wear.

SEWALONG

Mave Sewalong Day 3 – Waistband

April 28, 2021

Welcome back for day 3 of the Mave Sewalong. Today we are going to sew up waistband of the skirt.

With right sides touching, pin Drawstring pieces together at one short end. Stitch. Trim seam allowances and press open.

Stitch. Trim seam allowances and press open.

Fold the Drawstring in half lengthwise, wrong sides touching. Press.

Open back up and take the two long raw edges and fold them back into the crease you just made. Press.

Fold along the middle crease again. (Note: You can also use a bias tape maker to press the drawstring.) Edgestitch along the long folded edge. Set drawstring aside for now.

Apply a small scrap of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband, centering behind buttonhole markings.

Turn right side up. Stitch and open buttonholes.

With right sides touching, pin Waistband together at center back seam.

Stitch center back seam. Trim seam allowances and press open.

With wrong sides touching, fold Waistband in half lengthwise, matching seams and notches. Press.

Pin waistband to the right side of the skirt with the side of the waistband with buttonholes facing the right front side of the skirt. Match center notches and side notches with side seams.

Stitch the waistband seam, leaving a 4″ opening at center back, as pictured below.

Cut length of elastic according to the Elastic Cut Chart included on page two of the Mave pattern instructions.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, and stitch to secure. Note: It’s a good idea to try on your skirt to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

Pin and sew the opening in waistband seam closed, stretching slightly so the waistband and skirt lay flat as you sew.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manning and press down towards skirt.

Evenly distribute gathers around waistband. Press and pin to help keep it all in place.

With an elongated stretch stitch (approximately 0.5mm wide and 3mm long zigzag stitch), start at center back and stitch through all layers along each stitch line, stretching the waistband flat as you go. Backstitch at both ends.

Now we’re ready for hemming and finishing touches. We will finish those up tomorrow. See you then.

SEWALONG

MAVE SEWALONG DAY 2 – RUFFLES

April 27, 2021

Welcome back for the Day 2 of the Mave Skirt Sewalong. The following steps are for ruffled options only. For any ruffled options, begin here. If you’re omitting the ruffles, you may skip to the optional lining instructions towards the end of this post or to the Day 3 – Waistband post.

With right sides touching, pin Ruffle 1 (pattern piece 3) pieces together at sides.

Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances using your preferred method. Press seam allowances open or towards one side.

Starting and ending 1/4″ from each side seam, baste the upper edge of Ruffle 1 at 5/8″ seam allowance. (Leave a long thread tail and do not backstitch at either end.) Sew another line of basting stitches parallel to the first at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Gather the upper edge of Ruffle 1 evenly along the basting stitches.

With right sides together, pin Ruffle 1 to lower edge of skirt, matching notches and side seams.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance, being careful not to catch the pockets in your line of stitching.

Finish seam allowances using preferred method. Press seam allowances up toward skirt and remove visible basting stitches.

Optional: Edgestitch lower edge of skirt close to the ruffle seam, making sure to catch all seam allowances in line of stitching. This step isn’t necessary, but it does keep. the seam allowance pressed up and the seam line crisp.

If you are attaching a second ruffle just repeat everything you just did for first ruffle for the second one (pattern piece 4).

The following steps are for lining options only. If you are not attaching a lining, you are done for today.

With right sides touching, pin Skirt Lining pieces together at sides. Stitch side seams. Finish seam allowances in desired manner and press open or toward the back lining.

With wrong sides touching, place lining inside skirt, matching up center and side seams. Pin along top edge. Baste at 3/8″ to secure.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow and we will sew up the waistband.

SEWALONG

MAVE SEWALONG DAY 1 – POCKETS

April 26, 2021

Hi Everyone! Welcome to the Mave sewalong. Today we are going to sew and attach the pockets. Let’s get started.

Please note that unless otherwise noted, all seam allowances will be 1/2″.

Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and dots from your pattern pieces to your fabric. For the Waistband, transfer stitching lines and buttonhole markings to the outside of your fabric, using chalk or your favorite washable marking tool.

Also, make sure that you have transferred notches with a small 1/4″ cut and dots with a disapperring marking tool of your choice.

Finish the outside curved edges of all four Pocket pieces using your preferred method. I will be serging them, but. you can also use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch.

Please note: the straight edge will be finished later.

With right sides touching, pin one Pocket to each side edge of the Skirt pieces, matching notches. Stitch the pocket in a 3/8″ seam allowance. (By stitching at 3/8″ instead of 1/2″, it allows the pocket to tuck inside of the sideseams.)

Finish the seam allowances of the side edge of each skirt piece in your desired manner, making sure to secure pocket seam allowance in the finishing.

Press pockets away from the skirt front or back and over seam allowances.

Understitch pocket by stitching close to the pocket seam through all layers, securing seam allowances underneath.

With right sides touching, pin skirt front to skirt back, matching raw edges, pockets and dots.

Starting at the upper edge of the skirt, stitch down to first dot in the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Leaving the needle down, pivot to stitch around the pocket until the second dot, then pivot to stitch down to the bottom edge of skirt, backstitching at both ends.

Press pockets and seam allowances toward one skirt piece (This will now be your front skirt). Pin the pockets in place so they lie flat. Turn skirt right side out.

To secure the pockets to the front skirt, stitch back and forth just above and below the dots through all layers. The stitching should be centered over the seam line and about 3/8″ long, as pictured.

That is it for today! Tomorrow we will come back and attach ruffles and linings to the skirt.

Please let me know if you have any questions. If you need to purchase the Mave Skirt sewing pattern you can do so here.