Welcome back to day 4 – the last day of the Marlo Sewalong.
Grab your buttonhole guide as well as your buttons. You will also need some kind of marking tool like a fabric pen or chalk pencil.
Using the buttonhole guide, mark the buttonholes on the right front (when wearing). I find that the easiest way to do this is to fold your guide in half and place it along the neckband.
Next sew buttonholes on the right front. I recommend practicing on scrap fabric first. Open up your buttonholes.
Mark coordinating buttons on left front (when wearing). Note that the buttons are placed towards the top of the buttonhole openings (not in the middle). I like to use the buttonhole openings to mark the button placement but you can also use the guide.
Sew buttons on to the left front.
Now to finish up the wristbands. With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half, lengthwise. Press.
Open Wristband back up.
With right sides, together, pin short ends of Wristband together.
Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press seam allowances open or to one side.
With wrong sides together, fold Wristband in half along original press line. Press again.
Pin folded Wristband to lower edge of sleeve, matching seam on Wristband to underarm seam and stretching band to fit. Pin in place.
Serge or sew in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Press wristband down and seam allowances up toward sleeve.
And that is it! Give your Marlo Sweater a final press, clip any loose thread, and wear it proudly.
There are two methods for attaching the neckband. Option 1 is the beginner method and best for fabrics that are thick or tend to unravel. Option 2 is the intermediate method. It has a cleaner finish on the inside of your sweater and works best if your fabric is thinner and presses well. We will be going over both methods in the sewalong.
NECKBAND OPTION 1 (EASY)
With right sides touching, fold bottom edge of Neck Band in half lengthwise, and pin.
Serge or sew bottom edge at 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch or straight stitch.
Trim seam allowance and turn bottom edge of Neck Band right side out. Press carefully to create a nice, sharp right angle.
With right sides touching, pin the folded Neck Band to the opening edge of the sweater, aligning raw edges. (Note: The side of the Neck Band with the interfacing should be against the right side of the sweater).
Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch ant the bottom edge. The bottom of the neckband should be flush with the bottom of the waistband. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.
Serge or sew the Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.
Press the seam allowance toward the sweater.
On the front of your sweater, topstitch the sweater close to Neck Band seam to secure seam allowances, as pictured.
NECKBAND OPTION 2 (INTERMEDIATE)
Open up the pressed Neck Band. On the side without interfacing, turn the long edge in by 3/8″ as pictured.
With right sides touching, pin the unfolded side of the Neck Band to the sweater along neckline, carefully matching notches. The bottom edge of the Neck Band should extend past the bottom of the waistband by 3/8″.
Stretch the Neck Band to fit between the double notches at center back and the single notch at the shoulder seams. Stretch slightly as you match the notch at the top of the curve at center front. There is no need to stretch the Neck Band between the center front curve notch and bottom edge. Pin generously to hold the Neck Band in place.
Serge or sew Neck Band seam in a 3/8″ seam allowance with a stretch stitch. Finish the seam allowance in your desired manner, if necessary.
Press seam allowances toward Neck Band.
With right sides touching, fold the lower edge of the Neck Band in half, placing turned-in edge just slightly over the seamline, as pictured. Pin in place.
Stitch across the lower edge of the Neck Band at 3/8″ seam allowance, being careful to place your line of stitching just below the edge of your waistband. Repeat for other lower edge of Neck Band.
Trim edges to reduce bulk. Turn Neck Band right side out.
Following the original press line, turn the Neck Band toward the inside of the sweater, placing the inner folded edge just over the seamline. Place pins on the outside of the Neck Band all the way around to secure, as pictured.
To secure, on the outside, edgestitch the Neck Band 1/8″ inside the seamline, catching the folded edge of the Neck Band facing underneath.
That’s it for today. We are so close! Tomorrow we will attach the cuffs and the buttons / buttonholes. Can’t wait.
Pin the Front sweater to the Back Sweater at the shoulder edges with right sides touching. Serge or sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press the seam allowances open or to the back.
OPTIONAL: If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to add a strip of clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seam as I did above. This will keep it from stretching out over time.
To sew the clear elastic, arrange elastic on top of seam allowance, centering over 3/8″ seam line. Serge or sew the seam, with the elastic on top, catching it in the line of stitching. Do not stretch the elastic as you sew.
Trim ends of elastic even with armhole and neckline edges as needed.
With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to the armhole of the sweater, matching front and back notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam.
Serge or sew the shoulder seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.
With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at sides, continuing to pin sleeve underarm edges together. Make sure the lower edges of the sweater and sleeve align, and that the underarm seams match up.
Serge or sew the side and underarm seam in one continuous line of stitching, using a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. You will want to pull the sleeve up to create a straight or slightly curved line of stitching around the armpit. Press seam allowances open or towards the back.
If you havn’t done so already, fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides touching, and press.
With right sides touching, pin the folded Waistband to the lower edge of the sweater. Stretch the Waistband to fit, matching up the double notches at center back, and the single notches to the side seams. The front raw edges should be aligned.
Sew. Press waistband down and seam allowances up towards the sweater.
It should look like this once it’s all finished.
That’s it for today! It’s starting to look like a real sweater. See you back here tomorrow where we will attach the neckband.
Welcome to Day 1 of the Marlo Sweater Sewalong. Please note that I will be using a regular sewing machine, but your may also use a serger for many of the steps.
Before you start sewing, I do recommend testing your stitches. Because of the oversized nature of the pattern and depending on your fabric choice, you may be able to get away with a straight stitch, or you may find that a stretch stitch is more suitable. I recommend taking a swatch of fabric and folding it in half to try out stitches. I would try a straight stitch, a stretch stitch setting on your machine (it looks like a lighting bolt), or an elongated zigzag stitch which is my favorite. For an elongated zigzag stitch I put my settings at .5mm wide and 2.5mm long, but your should test on your fabric and machine and adjust as necessary.
Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches from your pattern pieces to your fabric. I usually just do a small 1/4″ snip, but if your fabric is a loose weave you may not be able to see the snip. In this case I would use a marking tool such as chalk to mark each notch.
With right sides touching, pin Neck Band sections together at the center back (The short end with the double notches marks center back). Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward one side.
With wrong sides touching, fold Neck Band in half lengthwise. Press.
Open Neck Band back up. Apply fusible interfacing to the bottom neckband edges on the wrong side to stabilize the button/buttonhole area. The fusible interfacing should be placed 3/8″ from the bottom and right outside edges, aligning with the center fold you pressed, as pictured.
Set Neck Band aside for now.
THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEW B ONLY. PROCEED TO SEWALONG DAY 2 FOR VIEW A.
Now we are going to prep and attached the pockets for View B. To stabilize the pocket opening, apply fusible pocket interfacing to the wrong side of the Pocket, placing interfacing 1/4″ down from upper raw edge, as pictured.
With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of the Pocket down by 1/4″ and press.
Flip over so the right side of the pocket is up. With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pocket at the notches. Pin.
Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 3/8″ seam allowance. Clip corners.
Turn the upper corners of the Pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Pin in place.
Starting just before the fold, bast the pocket sides and around the curved lower edges, leaving a long tail of thread free at both ends of stitching. Place this row of basting stitches a scant 3/8″ from the raw edge.
Using the thread tails at either end of basting, pull gently as you slightly gather the lower curved edges of the Pocket. This will help you to neatly turn in the 3/8″ seam allowance all around the side and lower edges of the Pocket. Press.
To secure the fold at the top of the pocket, stitch close to the lower pressed edge.
With right sides facing up, pin each pocket to the Front Sweater, matching the upper corners of the pocket to the placement dots marked on the Front Sweater. Carefully pin in place.
To secure the pocket, stitch close to the folded edge, carefully following the curved lower edges. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.
Repeat all of the pocket steps for the other side of the sweater / other pocket. That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow for Day 2 of the Marlo Sewalong.
Our sewalong starts in just over a week. In the meantime I wanted to put together a post with all of the information you might need to pick the right fabric and notions for your Marlo. Good sweater knits can be hard to find (but are out there), so I wanted to show you a bunch of great alternatives in case you want to start with a simpler fabric.
Remember that the main fabric does not actually require stretch, but the bands need at least 20%. You can use the same fabric for the whole sweater or use a contrasting fabric for the bands. Here are some fabrics I would suggest:
FRENCH TERRY / SWEATSHIRTING PAIRED WITH A MATCHING RIBKNIT
A great beginner friendly option is a good french terry or sweatshirting. I also included a waffle knit in the picture as another great option. These fabrics sometimes have stretch and sometimes don’t. If they do, you can use it for the whole sweater. If not, I suggest using a matching or coordinating ribknit. I bought the ones above from Blackbird Fabrics and Iseefabric. Lots of fabric stores are starting to carry matching ribbing and french terry / sweatshirting so I would just search around a bit. These fabrics are easy to find, easy to care for and generally easy to sew.
I love a good ponte! Look for ponte with little to no polyester content and more rayon content for a good quality version. This one is from Blackbird. I love ponte because it’s easy to sew, looks more elevated than a french terry, and generally has enough stretch that you could use the same fabric for the main sweater and bands.
Boucle is making a big comeback and I love it. It feels very 90s to me for some reason. It has an amazing curly texture while still being fairly lightweight. It has a beautiful sweater feel without being an actual sweater knit. I have been seeing it everywhere lately, although the three above came from Etsy and Fabric.com. It usually has stretch in it and looks great as the main sweater and bands in one.
I wish I had a swatch of a regular polar fleece to show you, but know that all polar fleece is a great option for the Marlo. The one above is the teddy bear / sherpa fleece that I am seeing everywhere. This one does not stretch so I would pair it with a matching ribbing or other knit. I have seen some polar fleece that does stretch however. The swatch above is from JoAnns and they carry a bunch of colors right now.
My favorite fabric to use for the Marlo is definitely a sweater knit. They can be hard to find, although I had good success on Etsy and with independent stores. I prefer a medium weight sweater knit that holds it’s shape. Lighter weight sweater knits like hacchi can also be used but may not give you the same look – so keep that in mind. The ones above came from my kits (sold out sorry), Etsy, and Fashion Fabrics Club.
You are also going to need a few notions for the Marlo. You will need some all purpose matching thread, a stretch sewing machine needle, and some fusible interfacing. The interfacing is to stabilize the bottom portion of the neckband where the buttons go. I prefer tricot interfacing which I buy from Wawak, but any light to medium weight interfacing should be fine. Also, you can get some clear elastic for should seams if you like. This will help the sweater to not grow over time while it hangs on your body or a hanger. This is most important if your fabric is heavy or very stretchy. Usually I don’t add it though.
Lastly, you are going to need some buttons. The Marlo calls for 1 1/8″ buttons, but you can go a bit smaller or bigger depending on your preference – just make sure you adjust the size of your buttonholes if you do. I love a big wooden button. I think it gives it that “grandpa sweater” vibe that I love. I found all of the above buttons on Etsy. Vintage buttons are a great option as well.
That is it! I hope this was helpful. I can’t wait to see your Marlo Sweaters.