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SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 4:

September 10, 2020

THE FIRST STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. SKIP AHEAD FOR VIEWS C & D.

Turn your jumpsuit inside out. If you haven’t done so already, mark your stitch line for the elastic casing.

Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the lower edge. The facing should cover the upper edge of the pockets by about 1/4.” Pin securely, taking extra time to smooth the facing along the jumpsuit as you work.

Using a stretch stitch, sew along the bottom edge of the facing, 1/8″ from the raw edge, leaving a 2″ opening at center back.

Sew another line of stitching on the stitching guide line. This line of stitching does not need an opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the waistband elastic. Insert it through the waistline channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, pin, and try on for comfort. Once you are happy with the fit of the elastic, stitch to secure.

Sew up the opening you left at center back.

THE FOLLOWING STEP IS FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Turn your jumpsuit inside out.

Optional- Serge or zigzag stitch along the raw edge of your facing to help prevent it from rolling. Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the lower edge of the facing to the jumpsuit at center back, center front, and side seams.

Hand-tack or machine sew the facing to the seam allowances to keep it in place.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS B & D ONLY

With your jumpsuit inside out, fold up the lower edge of the leg by 1 1/4″ for sizes 0-18, 1 1/2″ for sizes 14-30 and 1″ for the mini sizes. Press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew 1/8″ from the raw edge leaving a 2″ opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the ankle elastic. Insert it through the hem cuff, making sure it does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″. Stitch to secure. Sew up opening in elastic channel. Repeat for the other leg.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & C ONLY

Turn up the bottom edge of the leg by 5/8″. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew closely to the raw edge to secure hem.

You’re finished!

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 2:

September 8, 2020

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS C & D ONLY

Welcome back to day 2 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are continuing our sewalong with sewing up the pockets of views C and D of your jumpsuit (views with no elastic waistband).

First, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the two Pockets, AND on the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit pieces, matching dots. Unlike views A and B, views C and D only has two pocket pieces since we use a different method to attach the pockets.

To stabilize the Pocket opening edge, shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.5 mm. On the right side of your front jumpsuit, stitch from edge to upper dot, then pivot and stitch down to lower dot. Pivot again, and stitch to edge. This is 3/8″ from the side of your jumpsuit.

Clip at an angle to each dot, being careful not to cut through stitch line.

Turn the seam allowances between the dot toward the wrong side of the jumpsuit, folding along the line of stitching. Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from folded edge between dots to secure.

With the right side of the Pocket touching the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit, pin the pocket in place, matching up the dots and making sure everything lays flat.

Stitch around the edge of the pocket, 1/4″ from the raw edge, using a stretch stitch to secure.

Wrong side.

Right side.

With right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit, matching notches.

Sew the side seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (I do not recommend using a serger on this part as it is very hard to accurately sew the pocket area on a serger.) As you stitch towards the pocket area, gently pull back the pocket opening so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching.

The goal is to stitch as closely to the dots and corners as possible, while still leaving the opening free. Press seam allowances toward the Back Jumpsuit. You can baste this area first if you like. I usually need to go back and stitch this area closer after my first try.

It should look like this on the front of your jumpsuit if you did it correctly.

Repeat steps 10-13 for other side of jumpsuit.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow to continue making your Nova jumpsuit.

SEWALONG

NOVA SEWALONG DAY 1:

September 7, 2020

Welcome to day 1 of the Nova Jumpsuit. This sewalong works for all three size ranges of the pattern. Today we will be going over assembling the facing and also sewing up the pockets of views A and B (the views with the elastic waistband). We will do the pockets for views C and D tomorrow.

Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches, dots, and markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.

Keep in mind that one notch refers to a front piece, two notches refer to a back piece, and three notches refer to a side or inseam. Because the pattern pieces look so similar to one another, I find it helpful to put a piece of masking tape on the right side of all front pattern pieces for easy reference.

With right sides touching, pin Back Facing sections together at the center back. Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. 3/8″ is the standard seam allowance for this pattern. If we use something different I will let you know.

Press seam allowances open or toward one side.

We use a bit of a different method for finishing the shoulder seams of this pattern. In preparation, fold down 3/8″ seam allowance along Back Facing shoulder seams, with wrong sides touching. Press.

With right sides touching, pin the assembled Back Facing to the Front Facing at the sides. Serge or sew the side seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward the Back Facing. Set aside Facing for now.

THE NEXT FEW STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. If you are sewing up views C or D you are done for today and can join us back tomorrow.

To stabilize the pocket opening edge, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the four Pockets, as pictured.

With right sides touching, pin one Pocket section to each Front and Back Jumpsuit section, matching dots. Sew the pocket to the jumpsuit from top to bottom with a stretch stitch, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. (Using a 1/4″ instead of 3/8″ allows the pocket to tuck inside the seam and stay hidden.)

Press pocket away from main jumpsuit and over seam allowance.

Understitch Pocket, using a stretch stitch, by sewing 1/8″ from the seam and into the pocket, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will help the pocket to stay tucked to the inside and out of sight.

Pin one Front Jumpsuit to the coordinating Back Jumpsuit along the side seam, with pocket extended, as pictured.

Using a stretch stitch, sew the side seam from the armhole edge down to the first dot, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Backstitch to secure. Starting at the top outside edge of the Pocket, sew around the curved side and bottom edge, pivoting at the second dot. Continue sewing the side seam down to the lower edge of the leg. Repeat for other Front and Back.

Press pockets toward the front jumpsuit, ensuring it lays flat. Pin generously to secure in place for future steps.

This is how it will look on the right side. The ruler is there to show you the pocket opening.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 4 : PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

April 23, 2020

It’s the last official day of the Rio sewalong, but please continue to check back for lots of fun hacks and tutorials to come. I have some great stuff planned for the Rio.

Today is where everything comes together. The first thing we will do is attach the sleeves to the body. With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to it’s coordinating armhole matching notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam of your garment first and then the front and back notches.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

If you are using soft stretch, iron a strip along the front and back hems at this time.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the sides and continuing to pin the under sleeve. Pay extra attention to the sleeve bands and underarm seams to make sure they match up.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge at 3/8″ seam allowance in one continuous line of stitching. Press seam allowances towards the back.

Finish the sleeves like you did for the neckline by sewing (using a stretch stitch) 1/8″ towards the back of each underarm seam along the width of the sleeve band, catching the seam allowances underneath.

Use the iron with steam to reshape the arm bands if necessary.

Turn the bottom of the garment up by 5/8″ and press for the hem. Pin.

Using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle, stitch the hem in place.

That is it! I hope that this sewalong was helpful and that you love your new Rio.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

RIO SEWALONG DAY 3 : NECKBAND AND ALTERNATE BINDING METHOD

April 22, 2020

Welcome back to day 3 of the Rio sewalong. Today is going to look a lot like yesterday, except we are going to be attaching the neck binding.

The first thing we need to do is sew the left shoulder seam. With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the left shoulder. Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch or by serging.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

Just like you did for the sleeves, place a pin at each end and at the midpoint of the neckline. Do the same for the neckband.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the neckband to the garment neckline, matching up the pins at each end, and at the midpoint. Stretch the neckband to fit, and place additional pins as needed to ensure the neckband is evenly stretched along the entire neckline.

Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch.

or by serging.

Press the seam allowances away from the garment and towards the neckband.

Fold the upper edge of the neckband to the inside, along the original press line, so that the band wraps around the neckline and encases the seam allowances. Pin in place.

Using a zigzag stitch or twin needle, topstitch the neckband. Steam to press and reshape the neckline.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the right shoulder. Pay close attention to lining up the binding edges of the neckband.

Using a 3/8″ seam allowance and a stretch stitch or serger, sew the shoulder seam.

Press the seam allowances towards the back.

Using a straight stitch, sew a line of stitching on the right side of the garment, the length of the neckband, 1/8″ to the back of the shoulder seam. This will flatten the seam allowances and keep them tucked to the back. Sew back and forth a couple of times to make it nice and secure.

That is it for the regular ready to wear method for the neck binding. We will be using the same method on the sleeves tomorrow. For the alternate sew in the round method see below.

ALTERNATE SEW IN THE ROUND METHOD

Although not as quick and bit more finicky, the sew in the round method may be a better option for you if you are especially sensitive to tags or any bulk on the inside of your clothing. You can substitute this method for the neck binding and sleeve bindings if you prefer.

When using this method, you will want to sew up the second shoulder seam before topstitching your binding. Instead you will pin the should and open binding at the same time.

Sew at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Now fold the binding to the inside of the garment along the middle press line and pin. (Or press if you are using softstretch)

Topstitch the neck binding in place using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle.

Press and use steam to help it back into shape. And that is it. Like I said, you can use this alternate method for the sleeves as well if you prefer.

Come back tomorrow and we will finish off the Rio Sewalong.