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SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 5

September 23, 2021

It’s the last day of the Dani Sewalong, which means we are going to finish the waistband for Views A and B, including buttons and buttonholes. We will also be hemming and adding the cuff to all views. Let’s get started.

Using the guide on you left front waistband pattern piece, mark, sew and open your buttonholes.

With your fly lined up, mark your button placement through your buttonholes. The marking should be on the inside (closest to center front) edge of the buttonhole and not in the middle. Sew on buttons.

Finish the raw edge of the bottom of your short / pant in your desired manner.

Turn the garment inside out and press the hem up by 1 and 3/4″. Stitch close to the turned up edge.

Turn the garment right side out. Fold up the bottom hem by 1″ towards the right side to create cuff. The top of the cuff should cover the stitching by about 1/4″. Press.

Stitch in the ditch for about 1/4″ at the side and inner leg seams to secure cuff.

That’s it! Give your Dani’s a good press and wear them proudly.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 4

September 23, 2021

Welcome back for day 4 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we will be working with just Views A and B. We will be finishing up the sides and waistband for these views. By the end of today it will just be a few details left.

With the front and back right sides touching, match up and pin along the side seams and pockets. Be extra careful that the inseam pocket seamline for the front and back as well as dots line up. Pin generously.

Starting at the upper edge of the short / pant on one side, stitch down to the first dot using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Backstitch. Start again at the second dot, backstitch and stitch down to the hem using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Note that this new stitch line is 1/8″ in from the seam attaching to the inseam pocket. This allows the pocket to stay hidden inside of the side of the shorts / pants.

Stitch around the outside of the pocket, starting at the top outside edge and ending at the side seam stitchline and backstitching. Repeat previous two steps for other side and pocket.

Press pockets and seam allowances towards the front short / pant. Baste along the top edge at 3/8″ to temporarily secure it in place.

If you haven’t already, fuse interfacing to the wrong sides of the left and right front waistbands.

With right sides touching, pin the back waistband to the left and right fronts, matching notches. Stitch. It should look like the image below when done. Be very aware of your right and left sides, top and bottom.

Flip over. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and press open. Fold down the top edge towards the wrong side by 3/8″ Press.

With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top of your short / pant.

The inside edges will overlap the center front and fly shield of the short / pant by 1/2″. Match waistband notches to center back seam and side seams. Match waistband seams to notches on front short / pant.

Sew at the normal 1/2″ seam allowance.

Grade seams by trimming the one closest to the outside to 3/8″ and the inner one to 1/4″.

Press waistband and seam allowances up.

Take the folded edge of the waistband and fold it to the outside with right sides touching. Overlap the folded edge past the waistband seam by about 1/16″. Pin.

Stitch the center front edge at 1/2″ seam allowance so that the line of stitching is flush with the finished edge of the fly.

Repeat for right side. Clip corners and grade seam allowance as shown.

Turn the waistband right side out. On the inside, make sure the folded lower edge of the waistband self facing covers the seamline by about 1/16″. Pin in place. Press the waistband so you get a nice squared edge at each center front corner. Zip up the zipper and check to make sure the upper edges of the right and left seams align.

On the outside, stitch in the ditch by carefully sewing along the seamline, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the short / pant. You will be sewing from one seam line, around the back, to the other as shown below, leaving the front portion open. Backstitch at each end.

Starting and stopping at the waistband seams as shown below, stitch 1/4″ from the top folded edge. Backstitch at both ends. This creates the small paperbag affect on the waistband.

Cut a length of elastic according to the elastic cut chart on page 2. Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through. You will only be inserting it through the back portion of the waistband, starting and stopping at the seamlines. Be careful not to let the back and of the elastic slip into the waistband where you can’t access it.

Adjust your elastic so that it overlaps the seamline by about 1/2″ on each side. Pin securely. This is a good time to try on your short / pant to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

With the short / pant unzipped, stitch in the ditch along each vertical seamline where the back and front waistbands meet. Stitch through all layers, securing the elastic as you sew and backstitching at the ends.

Also stitch in the ditch along the bottom portion of the left and right front waistband pieces, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the short / pant and completely enclosing the waistband at the same time. Backstitch at each end.

Evenly distribute gathers around the back waistband. Press and pin. If you havn’t done so already, mark your stitch lines. You have already sewn the top stitchline, so just mark the bottom two.

With an elongated stretch stitch (zigzag stitch with 3mm length and .5mm width), start at one end of the back waistband and stitch through all layers along each stitch line at the the other end of the back waistband, backstitching to secure.

That is all for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish the Dani’s. up.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 3

September 22, 2021

It’s day 3 of the Dani Sewalong. Today is only for Views A and B as we will focusing on just the zip fly insertion. Make sure that you have your zipper ready to go. I prefer the lightweight, plastic zippers for the Dani, but you can also use the metal zipper if you like. If using the length of zipper suggested for your size, you should not need to shorten your zipper.

With the two fronts sitting wrong side up, make sure that your cut line for the right front extention is already marked. If not, use the pattern piece to do so or mark in 3/4″ from the edge. Trim the right extention.

Apply the left fly fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the left front only, as shown below, lining it up with the center front notch and dot.

With right sides touching, pin one front to its coordinating back at the inner leg seam.

Stitch. Finish seam allowances and press open or towards one side.

Finish the seam allowances of each crotch seam separately. Start at the back and continue around the crotch curve, all the way around the front extensions. This can be a little tricky around the fly extension curves and angles. Don’t worry, as these will be covered with the fly shield.

Fold back 1/2″ on the right front extension, so it’s even with the raw edge below, and press to create a guide line. Open back up.

Fold back the left front along the edge of the fusible interfacing (lining up with the center front notch and dot), and press to create a guide line. Open back up.

Open up each leg along the inner seam. With right sides touching, lay one leg on top of the other, matching up the side seams and notches. Be extra careful to line up the dots at the crotch seam. Pin.

Stitch crotch seam from center back to the center front dot and backstitch.

Position your short/pant so that the left front is facing up, and the right front is falling down and out of the way. Place your zipper face down so that the right edge (when facing down) of the zipper teeth is 1/2″ from the fold you created as a guide line. Depending on your zipper, this may be against or slightly inside the guide line. If you use a plastic zipper like me, it will be about 1/8″ in from the crease like shown below. The top edge is flush with the top raw edge of the short / pant. Pin.

Using a zipper foot, stitch along the left side of the zipper teeth as pictured, backstitching at the lower end to secure. Because the zipper pull is a bit bulky, you will not be able to sew completely straight at the top. Don’t worry about this- this line of stitching is not visible on the outside of the garment. If you force this line of stitching to be straight, it will push the zipper pull over and will therefore not stay hidden once the short / pant is finished. Remove pins along the zipper.

Turn the left fly extension to the inside of the short/pant along the foldline that you pressed earlier. Pin in place.

Unzip your zipper. With the short / pant facing up, place the folded right front edge against the edge of the zipper tape, aligning the fold with the zipper teeth. Pin in place.

Using a zipper foot, baste close to the folded edge to secure the zipper to the right front. Midway through stitching, leave the needle down and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible. Zip up the fly to make sure that everything is lying flat, and that the zipper is tucked neatly into the left side of the short / pant. Press the whole center front seam allowance towards the front left (when wearing) short / pant.

Align the topstitching guide (pattern piece 15) with the left front opening edge, as pictured. Using the paper pattern piece as your guide, mark the left fly stitching line on the outside of the short / pant.

Make sure that the seam allowances are still pressed towards the left front. Topstitch the fly through all layers along the marked line.

Fold the fly shield in half with right sides touching. Stitch the short angled end, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim. Turn fly shield right side out and press. Finish the inner long edge of the fly shield with either a zig-zag stitch or a serger.

With the short / pant facing up and the zipper open, place the fly shield under the right front opening edge. The finished edge of the fly shield should slightly cover the right zipper tape. The fly shield should extend past the zipper teeth by 1 and 1/4″. This is important or the waistband will not fit correctly. Pin in place.

Using a zipper foot, topstitch the right front, on top of the line of previous basting, through all layers, catching the fly shield in the line of stitching. Keep the left front free as you sew. In order to sew close to the fold, midway through stitching leave the needle down, and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible, and backstitch. Remove basting stitches if visible.

Zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up.

Optional: zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up. to secure the fly, sew a small (about 1/2″ long) bar tack through all layers (including fly shield) at the bottom of the inner curved stitching line, as pictured.

This is what it should look like on the right side.

This is what it should look like on the wrong side.

That is it for today. Come back tomorrow where we will finish the sides and waistband for Views A and B.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 2

September 21, 2021

Welcome back for day 2 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we do the majority of the sewing for Views C and D. If you are sewing Views A or B, skip this post and come back tomorrow.

With right sides touching, pin one front to its coordinating back at the inner leg seam. Stitch.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner and press open or towards one side. Repeat for other leg.

Open up each leg along the inner seam. With right sides touching, lay one leg on top of the other, matching up the seams and notches. Pin along the crotch seam.

Stitch from one end to the other.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner. Press open or towards one side.

With the front and back right sides touching, match up and pin along the side seams and pockets. Be extra careful that the dots and inseam pocket seamlines for the front and back line up. Pin generously.

Starting at the upper edge of the short / pant on one side, stitch down to the first dot, using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Backstitch.

Start again at the second dot, backstitch and stitch down to the hem, using the normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Note that this new stitch line is 1/8″ in from the seam attaching the inseam pocket. This allows the pocket to stay hidden in the side of the shorts / pants.

Stitch around the outside edge of the pocket, starting at the top outside edge and ending at the side seam stitchline. Backstitch at both ends. Repeat steps 14 and 15 for other side / pocket.

Press pockets and seam allowances towards the front short / pant. Baste along the top edge at 3/8″ to temporarily secure it in place.

With right sides touching, pin the waistband together at center back. Stitch center back seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and press open.

With wrong sides touching, fold the waistband in half lengthwise, matching seams and notches. Press.

Starting at center back, stitch through all layers, 1/4″ from the folded edge, all of the way around, ending at center back, and backstitching. This creates the small paperbag effect on the waistband.

Pin the waistband to the right side of the short / pant center back seams. Match notches with side seams and center front.

Stitch the waistband seam, leaving a 4″ opening at center back, as pictured below.

Cut a length of elastic according to the elastic cut chart on page 2 of the pattern instructions. Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it through the waistband channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″ and stitch to secure. (Note: It’s a good idea to try on your short / pant to check the fit of the elastic before stitching.

Sew the opening closed in the waistband seam, stretching slightly so the fabric lies flat as you sew.

Finish seam allowances in your desired manner and press down towards short / pant.

Evenly distribute gathers around the waistband. Press and pin to keep the gathers in place. If you havn’t done so already, mark the stitch lines on the outside of the waistband.

With an elongated stretch stitch, start at center back and stitch through all layers along the two lower stitch lines, stretching the waistband flat as you go, and ending at center back. Backstitch at both ends.

That is all for today. The next couple of days will be dedicated to Views A and B. For views C and D, come back on Friday where we will hem and cuff your Dani.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

DANI SEWALONG – DAY 1

September 20, 2021

Welcome to day 1 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we will be tackling steps 1-10 which include inseam and rear pockets. These steps apply to all views of the Dani.

Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches, dots, and topstitching guides from your pattern pieces to your fabric.

Fuse the rear pocket interfacing to the wrong side of each rear pocket, 1/4″ down from the top and just above the notches.

With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of each rear pocket down by 1/4″ and press.

With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pockets at the notches. Pin.

Stitch the side edges of each pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 1/2″ seam allowance. Clip corners.

Turn the upper corners of each rear pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Press in the bottom and two outside edges by 1/2″ (wrong sides touching).

To secure the fold, stitch close to the lower pressed edge of each rear pocket, backstitching at the ends.

With right sides facing up, pin each rear pocket to the back short/pant, matching the upper corners of each pocket to the placement dot markings. Carefully pin in place.

To secure the pockets, stitch close to the folded edge of the bottom and side edges. At the bottom two corners, leave your needle down, pivot and continue sewing. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.

That is all for the rear pockets. Next up the inseam pockets.

Fold the inside long edge (the edge without notches) of each of the two inseam pocket facings towards the wrong side by 1/4″.

Pin the facings on top of one pair of inseam pockets along the notched outside edge. The wrong side of the facing should be touching the right side of the pocket.

Edgestitch along the facing folds, through all layers, as shown below.

Finish the outside curved edge of each of the four inseam pockets in your desired manner. I am using my serger.

Pin the two inseam pockets with the attached facings, right sides touching, to the backs, matching side seam notches.

Stitch using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (Attaching the pockets with a smaller seam allowance allows them to tuck inside of the side seams and remain invisible.

Finish the seam allowances of the entire side edge of each back in your desired manner, making sure to secure the pocket seam allowances in the finishing.

Press pockets away from each back, over the seam allowances.

Understitch each pocket by stitching close to the pocket seam through all layers, securing seam allowances underneath.

You can put your back pieces away for now. Grab your fronts and inseam pocket interfacings.

Fuse the inseam pocket interfacings to the wrong side of each front side seam, matching notches.

Attach the remaining two inseam pockets to the fronts by repeating the previous four steps.

This includes pinning the pockets right sides touching to the fronts.

Stitch at 3/8″ seam allowance.

Finish the side seams in your desired manner. I am serging mine.

Press pockets and seam allowances away from front. Understitch next to the fold.

That is all for today. Come back tomorrow for day two of the Dani Sewalong.