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January 15, 2021

Our sewalong starts in just over a week. In the meantime I wanted to put together a post with all of the information you might need to pick the right fabric and notions for your Marlo. Good sweater knits can be hard to find (but are out there), so I wanted to show you a bunch of great alternatives in case you want to start with a simpler fabric.

Remember that the main fabric does not actually require stretch, but the bands need at least 20%. You can use the same fabric for the whole sweater or use a contrasting fabric for the bands. Here are some fabrics I would suggest:


A great beginner friendly option is a good french terry or sweatshirting. I also included a waffle knit in the picture as another great option. These fabrics sometimes have stretch and sometimes don’t. If they do, you can use it for the whole sweater. If not, I suggest using a matching or coordinating ribknit. I bought the ones above from Blackbird Fabrics and Iseefabric. Lots of fabric stores are starting to carry matching ribbing and french terry / sweatshirting so I would just search around a bit. These fabrics are easy to find, easy to care for and generally easy to sew.


I love a good ponte! Look for ponte with little to no polyester content and more rayon content for a good quality version. This one is from Blackbird. I love ponte because it’s easy to sew, looks more elevated than a french terry, and generally has enough stretch that you could use the same fabric for the main sweater and bands.


Boucle is making a big comeback and I love it. It feels very 90s to me for some reason. It has an amazing curly texture while still being fairly lightweight. It has a beautiful sweater feel without being an actual sweater knit. I have been seeing it everywhere lately, although the three above came from Etsy and It usually has stretch in it and looks great as the main sweater and bands in one.


I wish I had a swatch of a regular polar fleece to show you, but know that all polar fleece is a great option for the Marlo. The one above is the teddy bear / sherpa fleece that I am seeing everywhere. This one does not stretch so I would pair it with a matching ribbing or other knit. I have seen some polar fleece that does stretch however. The swatch above is from JoAnns and they carry a bunch of colors right now.


My favorite fabric to use for the Marlo is definitely a sweater knit. They can be hard to find, although I had good success on Etsy and with independent stores. I prefer a medium weight sweater knit that holds it’s shape. Lighter weight sweater knits like hacchi can also be used but may not give you the same look – so keep that in mind. The ones above came from my kits (sold out sorry), Etsy, and Fashion Fabrics Club.


You are also going to need a few notions for the Marlo. You will need some all purpose matching thread, a stretch sewing machine needle, and some fusible interfacing. The interfacing is to stabilize the bottom portion of the neckband where the buttons go. I prefer tricot interfacing which I buy from Wawak, but any light to medium weight interfacing should be fine. Also, you can get some clear elastic for should seams if you like. This will help the sweater to not grow over time while it hangs on your body or a hanger. This is most important if your fabric is heavy or very stretchy. Usually I don’t add it though.


Lastly, you are going to need some buttons. The Marlo calls for 1 1/8″ buttons, but you can go a bit smaller or bigger depending on your preference – just make sure you adjust the size of your buttonholes if you do. I love a big wooden button. I think it gives it that “grandpa sweater” vibe that I love. I found all of the above buttons on Etsy. Vintage buttons are a great option as well.

That is it! I hope this was helpful. I can’t wait to see your Marlo Sweaters.



September 10, 2020


Turn your jumpsuit inside out. If you haven’t done so already, mark your stitch line for the elastic casing.

Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the facing to the jumpsuit along the lower edge. The facing should cover the upper edge of the pockets by about 1/4.” Pin securely, taking extra time to smooth the facing along the jumpsuit as you work.

Using a stretch stitch, sew along the bottom edge of the facing, 1/8″ from the raw edge, leaving a 2″ opening at center back.

Sew another line of stitching on the stitching guide line. This line of stitching does not need an opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the waistband elastic. Insert it through the waistline channel, making sure the elastic does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″, pin, and try on for comfort. Once you are happy with the fit of the elastic, stitch to secure.

Sew up the opening you left at center back.


Turn your jumpsuit inside out.

Optional- Serge or zigzag stitch along the raw edge of your facing to help prevent it from rolling. Making sure that everything is lying flat, pin the lower edge of the facing to the jumpsuit at center back, center front, and side seams.

Hand-tack or machine sew the facing to the seam allowances to keep it in place.


With your jumpsuit inside out, fold up the lower edge of the leg by 1 1/4″ for sizes 0-18, 1 1/2″ for sizes 14-30 and 1″ for the mini sizes. Press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew 1/8″ from the raw edge leaving a 2″ opening.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the ankle elastic. Insert it through the hem cuff, making sure it does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap ends of elastic by about 1/2″. Stitch to secure. Sew up opening in elastic channel. Repeat for the other leg.


Turn up the bottom edge of the leg by 5/8″. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, sew closely to the raw edge to secure hem.

You’re finished!



September 8, 2020


Welcome back to day 2 of the Nova Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are continuing our sewalong with sewing up the pockets of views C and D of your jumpsuit (views with no elastic waistband).

First, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the two Pockets, AND on the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit pieces, matching dots. Unlike views A and B, views C and D only has two pocket pieces since we use a different method to attach the pockets.

To stabilize the Pocket opening edge, shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.5 mm. On the right side of your front jumpsuit, stitch from edge to upper dot, then pivot and stitch down to lower dot. Pivot again, and stitch to edge. This is 3/8″ from the side of your jumpsuit.

Clip at an angle to each dot, being careful not to cut through stitch line.

Turn the seam allowances between the dot toward the wrong side of the jumpsuit, folding along the line of stitching. Press.

Topstitch 1/8″ from folded edge between dots to secure.

With the right side of the Pocket touching the wrong side of the Front Jumpsuit, pin the pocket in place, matching up the dots and making sure everything lays flat.

Stitch around the edge of the pocket, 1/4″ from the raw edge, using a stretch stitch to secure.

Wrong side.

Right side.

With right sides touching, pin the Front Jumpsuit to the Back Jumpsuit, matching notches.

Sew the side seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. (I do not recommend using a serger on this part as it is very hard to accurately sew the pocket area on a serger.) As you stitch towards the pocket area, gently pull back the pocket opening so it doesn’t get caught in the line of stitching.

The goal is to stitch as closely to the dots and corners as possible, while still leaving the opening free. Press seam allowances toward the Back Jumpsuit. You can baste this area first if you like. I usually need to go back and stitch this area closer after my first try.

It should look like this on the front of your jumpsuit if you did it correctly.

Repeat steps 10-13 for other side of jumpsuit.

That is it for today! Come back tomorrow to continue making your Nova jumpsuit.



September 7, 2020

Welcome to day 1 of the Nova Jumpsuit. This sewalong works for all three size ranges of the pattern. Today we will be going over assembling the facing and also sewing up the pockets of views A and B (the views with the elastic waistband). We will do the pockets for views C and D tomorrow.

Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches, dots, and markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.

Keep in mind that one notch refers to a front piece, two notches refer to a back piece, and three notches refer to a side or inseam. Because the pattern pieces look so similar to one another, I find it helpful to put a piece of masking tape on the right side of all front pattern pieces for easy reference.

With right sides touching, pin Back Facing sections together at the center back. Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. 3/8″ is the standard seam allowance for this pattern. If we use something different I will let you know.

Press seam allowances open or toward one side.

We use a bit of a different method for finishing the shoulder seams of this pattern. In preparation, fold down 3/8″ seam allowance along Back Facing shoulder seams, with wrong sides touching. Press.

With right sides touching, pin the assembled Back Facing to the Front Facing at the sides. Serge or sew the side seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward the Back Facing. Set aside Facing for now.

THE NEXT FEW STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. If you are sewing up views C or D you are done for today and can join us back tomorrow.

To stabilize the pocket opening edge, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the four Pockets, as pictured.

With right sides touching, pin one Pocket section to each Front and Back Jumpsuit section, matching dots. Sew the pocket to the jumpsuit from top to bottom with a stretch stitch, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. (Using a 1/4″ instead of 3/8″ allows the pocket to tuck inside the seam and stay hidden.)

Press pocket away from main jumpsuit and over seam allowance.

Understitch Pocket, using a stretch stitch, by sewing 1/8″ from the seam and into the pocket, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will help the pocket to stay tucked to the inside and out of sight.

Pin one Front Jumpsuit to the coordinating Back Jumpsuit along the side seam, with pocket extended, as pictured.

Using a stretch stitch, sew the side seam from the armhole edge down to the first dot, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Backstitch to secure. Starting at the top outside edge of the Pocket, sew around the curved side and bottom edge, pivoting at the second dot. Continue sewing the side seam down to the lower edge of the leg. Repeat for other Front and Back.

Press pockets toward the front jumpsuit, ensuring it lays flat. Pin generously to secure in place for future steps.

This is how it will look on the right side. The ruler is there to show you the pocket opening.



April 23, 2020

It’s the last official day of the Rio sewalong, but please continue to check back for lots of fun hacks and tutorials to come. I have some great stuff planned for the Rio.

Today is where everything comes together. The first thing we will do is attach the sleeves to the body. With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to it’s coordinating armhole matching notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam of your garment first and then the front and back notches.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

If you are using soft stretch, iron a strip along the front and back hems at this time.

With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the sides and continuing to pin the under sleeve. Pay extra attention to the sleeve bands and underarm seams to make sure they match up.

Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge at 3/8″ seam allowance in one continuous line of stitching. Press seam allowances towards the back.

Finish the sleeves like you did for the neckline by sewing (using a stretch stitch) 1/8″ towards the back of each underarm seam along the width of the sleeve band, catching the seam allowances underneath.

Use the iron with steam to reshape the arm bands if necessary.

Turn the bottom of the garment up by 5/8″ and press for the hem. Pin.

Using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle, stitch the hem in place.

That is it! I hope that this sewalong was helpful and that you love your new Rio.