It’s the last official day of the Rio sewalong, but please continue to check back for lots of fun hacks and tutorials to come. I have some great stuff planned for the Rio.
Today is where everything comes together. The first thing we will do is attach the sleeves to the body. With right sides touching, pin the sleeve to it’s coordinating armhole matching notches. Match the middle notch to the shoulder seam of your garment first and then the front and back notches.
Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.
If you are using soft stretch, iron a strip along the front and back hems at this time.
With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the sides and continuing to pin the under sleeve. Pay extra attention to the sleeve bands and underarm seams to make sure they match up.
Sew (using a stretch stitch) or serge at 3/8″ seam allowance in one continuous line of stitching. Press seam allowances towards the back.
Finish the sleeves like you did for the neckline by sewing (using a stretch stitch) 1/8″ towards the back of each underarm seam along the width of the sleeve band, catching the seam allowances underneath.
Use the iron with steam to reshape the arm bands if necessary.
Turn the bottom of the garment up by 5/8″ and press for the hem. Pin.
Using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle, stitch the hem in place.
That is it! I hope that this sewalong was helpful and that you love your new Rio.
Welcome back to day 3 of the Rio sewalong. Today is going to look a lot like yesterday, except we are going to be attaching the neck binding.
The first thing we need to do is sew the left shoulder seam. With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the left shoulder. Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch or by serging.
Press seam allowances towards the back.
Just like you did for the sleeves, place a pin at each end and at the midpoint of the neckline. Do the same for the neckband.
With right sides touching, pin the unfolded edge of the neckband to the garment neckline, matching up the pins at each end, and at the midpoint. Stretch the neckband to fit, and place additional pins as needed to ensure the neckband is evenly stretched along the entire neckline.
Sew at 3/8″ using a stretch stitch.
or by serging.
Press the seam allowances away from the garment and towards the neckband.
Fold the upper edge of the neckband to the inside, along the original press line, so that the band wraps around the neckline and encases the seam allowances. Pin in place.
Using a zigzag stitch or twin needle, topstitch the neckband. Steam to press and reshape the neckline.
With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the right shoulder. Pay close attention to lining up the binding edges of the neckband.
Using a 3/8″ seam allowance and a stretch stitch or serger, sew the shoulder seam.
Press the seam allowances towards the back.
Using a straight stitch, sew a line of stitching on the right side of the garment, the length of the neckband, 1/8″ to the back of the shoulder seam. This will flatten the seam allowances and keep them tucked to the back. Sew back and forth a couple of times to make it nice and secure.
That is it for the regular ready to wear method for the neck binding. We will be using the same method on the sleeves tomorrow. For the alternate sew in the round method see below.
ALTERNATE SEW IN THE ROUND METHOD
Although not as quick and bit more finicky, the sew in the round method may be a better option for you if you are especially sensitive to tags or any bulk on the inside of your clothing. You can substitute this method for the neck binding and sleeve bindings if you prefer.
When using this method, you will want to sew up the second shoulder seam before topstitching your binding. Instead you will pin the should and open binding at the same time.
Sew at 3/8″ seam allowance.
Now fold the binding to the inside of the garment along the middle press line and pin. (Or press if you are using softstretch)
Topstitch the neck binding in place using a zigzag topstitch or twin needle.
Press and use steam to help it back into shape. And that is it. Like I said, you can use this alternate method for the sleeves as well if you prefer.
Come back tomorrow and we will finish off the Rio Sewalong.
Now that everything is cut out and ready to go we are going to start sewing the Rio. I am going to be sewing up two Rio t-shirts on the blog during this sewalong. The first one I will be sewing up according to the instructions. I will use my sewing machine (not serger). The second version I will be sewing up using a serger and also introducing the Heatnbond softstretch that I mentioned in the fabrics post last week. I want to make sure that those who have it know the best ways to use it for the Rio.
We will begin by preparing our our neck and arm bindings. Bring all three strips of ribbing over to your iron. Fold each in half lengthwise (wrong sides touching) and press. Use the steam on your iron to really set the crease and open it back up.
Fold in 1/4″ along one long edge and press.
Fold up along original middle press line and press again. Set aside.
If you are using the softstretch, cut three pieces of the softstretch the lengths of each binding strip. There is a shiny side and the paper side.
Put the shiny side down along the folded up (by 1/4″) edge. Using a hot iron with no steam, iron the softstretch to the binding until it adheres well. I leave the iron for about 10 seconds on each part.
Set the binding aside and let it completely cool. Once cooled down, remove the paper backing for each binding. It’s hard to see, but the softstretch should have left a film where the paper backing was taken off. It is not sticky unless warm.
Take one sleeve and place a pin at each end along the bottom and one in the center (fold in half to find). Do the same for the sleeve binding.
With right sides touching, pin the unpressed edge of the sleeve band to the lower edge of the sleeve, matching up the pins and stretching the sleeve band to fit. Add more pins as necessary to stretch the binding evenly along the bottom of the sleeve.
Stitch using a 3/8″ seam allowance using the stretch stitch on your machine or an elongated zigzag.
Or use a serger
Press the seam allowances down toward the sleeve band. As you press, make sure the lower edge of the sleeve band remains turned under.
Fold the sleeve band to the inside, along the originial press line, so that the band wraps around the bottom of the sleeve while encasing the seam allowance and the stitchline. Pin in place.
If you are using the softstretch, use the iron and steam to set it. This should replace the need for pins.
This is a good time to turn the sleeve over and make sure that the binding is visually even on the right side. If not adjust it at this time.
Using a zigzag topstitch, sew along the top folded edge of the binding to secure. Be sure to catch the folded underside edge of the sleeve band as you sew.
You can also do this with a twin needle or a coverstitch if you have one.
Once stitched it will post likely be a bit stretched out. Use the steam on your iron to shape it back into place. It works wonders.
And that is it for today. Tomorrow we will do a similar method to the neckline and I will also be showing you an alternative method to attach the bindings in the round if you prefer it.
It’s day 1 of the Rio Sewalong. Today is all about adjusting our pattern pieces, cutting out our fabric, and testing our stitches.
Lengthen / Shorten
If you are taller or shorter than 5’5″ (which is the model we draft for) then you may want to lengthen or shorten your pattern a bit. One common mistake is to add or subtract the difference in height you are from the model in it’s entirety. Keep in mind that a t-shirt and even a knee length dress, only cover a portion of your body so you probably only need to add or subtract a portion of the difference. For instance, I am 5’3″ which is 2″ shorter than the pattern is drafted for. I know that I have a longer torso but shorter legs and that my torso takes up less than half of my height, so I shorten my Rio top by 1/2″ at the waistline. Let me show you how I do it.
First I measure up 1/2″ from the lengthen / shorten line and draw a line.
Next, I cut along the lengthen / shorten line and move the bottom portion up to the line I drew. Tape in place.
Next you will need to blend the side seam if necessary. It’s that easy. Make sure you do the same for the back piece so that they match up.
To lengthen you will do essentially the opposite. First cut along the lengthen / shorten line.
Get a separate piece of paper and draw two lines that are the distance apart that you want to lengthen by and one that will act as the CF. I am going to do 1/2″ for this exercise.
Tape the top and bottom to this sheet of paper on either sides of the lines you drew, making sure that the center front lines up in a straight line.
Blend the side seam.
Trim off any excess paper and do the same adjustments to the back.
Another common question I get is grading between sizes. I wouldn’t worry too much about grading the waist unless it is more than two sizes difference, since there is ease in the waist to accommodate that. If you are measuring different sizes in the chest and hip I would grade between sizes. It’s really just as easy as drawing a soft line between the two sizes.
Make sure you do the same for the front and back pieces so they match up.
Go ahead and cut out your fabric now. Tomorrow we will be sewing so they need to be ready to go.
Before we are done today, I recommend getting scraps of your main and binding fabrics and testing your stitches. I find it easiest to print off the page in the instructions with the recommended stitch lengths and use that as your starting point. Take notes on that piece of paper so you can refer back to it when we are sewing tomorrow. Be sure to put your stretch sewing machine needle in your machine before proceeding.
Take your main fabric scrap and fold it so it’s doubled up (since when you sew your actual garment it’s always at least two layers of fabric).
For the main fabric you need to try a few stitches out. First try the stitch that you would use to construct the garment. If it is a serger test that out. If you do not have a serger you will either use a stretch stitch if your machine has that option or an elongated zigzag stitch if it does not. The elongated zigzag stitch has a recommended 2.5mm length and 0.5mm width. Try it out and see how you like it. Adjust as necessary. Next I recommend trying the zigzag topstitching to see how that works with your fabric when you hem your garment. The recommended setting for this zigzag stitch is 3mm long and 3mm in width. You can also use the elongated zigzag stitch or stretch stitch option for the hem if you prefer. Lastly, if you are going to use a twin needle at all give that a go as you may prefer it for your hem. You may need to play around with tension or stitch lengths to get a result you like. I usually make the length of the stitch 3mm when using a twin needle. Make sure you keep notes so you can replicate it tomorrow.
I also recommend trying out some stitches on your binding fabric. I tried the twin needle, the zigzag topstitching, and the elongated zigzag stitch to see how they reacted to my binding fabric.
Once you have stitches you like, record everything so you are ready to go tomorrow. I will be sewing a couple of samples using the stitches above so you can see how it looks.
The official sewalong starts next week, but I wanted to pop on here and talk about fabric and notions you may need or want for the Rio if you are going to be sewing along with me.
Let’s talk notions first. You will definitely want a special sewing machine needle to handle the knit fabric so you don’t damage it. Look for a needle that has stretch or jersey in the description. When sewing the bindings and hems you have a choice of how to finish them. I prefer a good old zigzag stitch which is the preferred method in the Rio instructions. If you go this route you will only need the one stretch needle for all of the construction. I will also go over the option to use a twin sewing machine needle for some steps. If you prefer this method you will want to buy a twin stretch needle.
You will need some all purpose thread for your Rio as well. If you are doing contrast binding as I am, you will need thread that matches both your main fabric and your binding fabric.
This gem is not in the instructions and is completely optional, but it is one of my favorite notions. I use it whenever I sew a stretch knit. I will talk more about it in the sewalong, but in a nutshell it stabilizes knit seams so they do not stretch out during sewing while also acting as a bonding agent instead of pins. It is a lifesaver when it comes to the bindings and hem seams. It comes in lite and ultra. I use them both depending on the thickness of my fabric.
Now let’s talk fabric. The main body of the t-shirt or dress should be made with a knit fabric which at least 40% widthwise stretch. More stretch than this doesn’t make much of a difference except a slightly more giving fit. Using a fabric with less stretch than this may result in a garment that is too tight, especially in the sleeves and chest. If the fabric is slightly less you can probably get away with going up a size, but be careful. You can test the stretch percentage by using the chart in your instructions.
Simply cut a 4 inch piece of your fabric. Hold it against the stretch chart and pull the right end towards the arrows to determine what the stretch percentage is.
As for types of fabric, look for cotton jersey, t-shirt knits, cotton interlock, merino wool jersey, and even rib knit. Here are a few I found around the web that you may like:
For the neck and sleeve bindings you will want knit fabric with at least 75% stretch. If your fabric has less stretch than this you will have a hard time getting it over your head and may find the sleeves too tight at the hem. If the fabric has just a bit less stretch you may get away with lengthening the bindings slightly, but be careful.
As for types of fabric, I mostly recommend rib knit fabric. I prefer cotton ribbing because it presses well. If you buy a ribbing that has a lot of polyester in it you may find that it has a really hard time keeping it’s press and give you a headache. I would also try to avoid knits that roll a lot. This will also cause you all sorts of frustration when you are trying to create those crisp even bindings. Here are a few you may like: