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July 17, 2021

We are back for the second week of Ogden Month and the second hack. Today we are going to use the Ogden cami pattern to create a short, button front dress. I’m loving how this hack turned out and can’t wait to show you how I created it.

As far as fabric goes you will need your main fabric (I am using a linen cotton blend), lightweight fusible interfacing, and about 6 5/8″ buttons.

For this hack you are going to need all of your pattern pieces. So go ahead and get those printed and ready to go.

Lets start with pattern piece 1 – the main front piece.

  • First, we need to lengthen it to a dress. I wanted mine to be a few inches above the knee and I am 5’3″. In the end I added 11 inches to the bottom and that was perfect for me (it includes a 2 inch hem). But depended on your height you may want to add more or less length.
  • Next we need to connect the side seam down to the new hem. You will free hand this, leaving a small curve for the hip. You will take more width out later once it’s sewn up and you try it on so dont be too worried about it. Just do you best as a starting point.
  • Since the Ogden is cut on the fold, we will add width for the button overlap (I will add 5/8″ for my 5/8″ buttons. This will give a little extra room around the buttons when they are centered at center front.) and also 1/2″ for the seam allowance at center front.

For the back, it is going to be cut on the fold so you do not need to worry about center back. Just extend that line straight down.

For the side seam and bottom of the back, flip the front onto the back and line up sides. Keep the grainlines the same so it stays balances and copy the side seam and bottom front the front to the back piece so they match. Super simple. Remember that you will be basting and adjusting the sides later.

Your front and back should look something like this.

Now for the linings which really are more like facings when we get done with them.

  • First copy the center front extention (5/8″ button extenttion plus 1/2″ seam allowance plus length of the dress.)
  • Next, Starting at the side seam, we are going to trim the facing so it’s about 2 21/2″ wide. Do not cut too close into the strap area. Keep the cut line a smooth curve. It should look something like this:

Do the same for he back facing.

In the end your facings should look like this:

Now cut out your pieces as follows:

  • 2 fronts main fabric
  • 1 back cut on fold main fabric
  • 2 straps main fabric
  • 2 front facings main fabric
  • 2 front facings interfacing
  • 1 back facing cut on fold main fabric
  • 1 back facing cut on fold interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to facings.

Sew up side seams of facings. Press seam allowances open. Finish the inside edge of your facing in your desired manner. I serged it.

Now sew up the main dress according to the instructions by sewing up the straps and staystitching.

With right sides touching, pin up side seams. Because we are going to be fitting the dress later, I recommend stitching the first few inches down (including finishing the seam allowance) and then basting the rest of the way to the hem. We will come back and finish the side seams after fitting them.

Press seam allowances towards the back.

With right sides touching, pin the facing to the main dress. Following the instructions for the Ogden, stitch, add in straps, trim and understitch.

The only difference is that at center front you want to stitch straight down to the hem and clip the corner seam allowance to avoid bulk.

Once it’s all turned out and pressed it should look like this:

Next, let’s address the side seam fit. Overlap the right side over the left by 1 1/4″ and pin. Try on the dress inside out and pin the side seams until you get the right fit. Trim excess and stitch the side seams accordingly. Finish seam allowances and press towards back.

Next up hem. Finish the bottom raw edge (I serged it).

With right sides touching, fold the facing back onto the main dress and pin.

Stitch the length of the facing at the height of your hem (I am sewing a 2″ hem).

Clip corners and turn right side out. This will give you a nice finish at the center front corners.

Continue to press up your hem all of the way around the dress. Pin and stitch from facing edge to facing edge.

Now we just need to add the buttons.

On the right front when wearing, mark button holes vertically down the front. The buttons holes should be at center front (5/8″ in from the folded edge) and start about 5/8″ down from the top. Sew on button holes and open them.

With the right side 1 1/4″ over of the left, mark button placement thru open buttonholes. The first button is at the top of the first buttonhole and the others are centered in the buttonholes.

Sew on buttons. Give it a good press and we are done!

I hope this Ogden hack was fun. Let me know if you have any questions.



July 11, 2021

As part of Ogden Month, I am sewing up four different hacks for the Ogden cami pattern. The first one is this peplum version with rouleau buttons down the front. I’m really excited about this one. It’s a pretty simple hack overall, I think the button feature really adds a lot.

For this hack you are going to need 3 of the pattern pieces. You will need the strap, the front lining and the back lining. I decided to add an inch to the bottom of pieces 3 and 4 since I likes where that hit better, but that is up to you.

We also need to add seam allowance to the front bodice. To do this, simply add 1/2″ to the center front of pattern piece 3 as shown below.

Next we need to draft an extension for the left center front. This extension will make sure that you have coverage behind the rouleau buttons. The extention will 1″ wide plus seam allowances, so 2″ wide and the length of Center front.

Lastly, we need to draft the loops for the rouleau buttons. This will be 1 1/4″ wide and 10 inches long. This will be long enough for 5 2″ loops. Make it longer if you are adding more buttons.

Now cut out your fabric as follows:

(3) Front – Cut 4 (2 main and 2 lining)

(4) Back – Cut 2 on fold (1 main 1 lining)

(5) Strap – Cut 2

Left Extension – Cut 2 Main Cut 2 Interfacing

Button loop – Cut 1 on bias

Leave some fabric for the peplum. We will be cutting that out after we have assembled the top portion.

Apply fusible interfacing to the backs of the extensions.

On the left front (when wearing) main and lining, sew extention along Center front.

Trim seam allowances. Press extention away from center front.

Sew up the sides seams so you have a main bodice and coordinating lining bodice.

Make the rouleau button loop. Fold in half, right sides touching, sew 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim seam allowances to 1/16″.

Turn right side out, press and cut in 2″ sections.

Fold each 2″ section into a small loop. Tape or pin to the center front of the right side of your main bodice when wearing. Keep in mind that the center front has a 1/2″ seam allowance at the top and bottom. Position and space accordingly.

Pin the lining for the right front on top of the main right front. Baste down at 1/2″ seam allowance to check the loops.

When happy with it, pin the rest of the lining to the main bodice and sew up according the Ogden instructions.

Staystitch, sew up the sides seams, sew and attach straps, and sew the lining to the main bodice. The only difference is at center front. You will sew straight down center front at 1/2″ seam allowance on the left and right sides.

Trim and turn it right out and press. It should look something like this.

Place the right side over the left side when wearing so that it lines up at center front. Baste the bottom of the bodice together at 3/8″ seam allowance all of the way around.

Now it is time to draft the peplum. Measure the front and back bottom edges. Take that number and multiply by 1.3. Round to the nearest whole number, and add 1 inch for seam allowance. This will be the width of each peplum. We will use mine (size 6) as an example.

Front = 19.5″ x 1.3 = about 25 + 1 = 26″

Back = 18.5″ x 1.3 = about 24 +1 = 25″

For the length I cut 8″. I knew that I wanted mine cropped though so you may want to cut it longer, knowing you always trim it later.

Cut your two pieces and pin right sides touching. Sew up short sides, finish seam allowances and press open.

Baste along front and back top edge at 3/8″ and again at 5/8″.

Gather top edge so it matches the width of your bodice.

Pin with right sides touching. Sew at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Finish seam allowances and press them down towards hem.

Try on and check length. Trim if needed (I took off 2 inches).

Hem by folding at 1/4″ with wrong sides touching. Fold again at 1/4″ and stitch.

Lastly, buttons. Mark button placement through button loops.

Hand sew on each button.

And that is it. I really love how this Ogden hack turned out. Let me know if you have any questions.



May 14, 2021

Today I am going to share a simple hack for the Rory Jumpsuit so you can omit the D-rings but still have some waist definition by adding a bit of elastic to the back and sides. This will work with any of the jumpsuit views, but I chose to use the shorts version with the extended sleeves.

To begin, cut out and assemble your pattern according to the instructions. Instead of sewing up the shoulder seams, sew up the side seams so that when you lay it flat, the back is in the middle and the fronts are extended on the two sides.

Take a strip of fabric that is the height of your elastic (mine is 2 inchs) plus 1 inch for seam allowances and 1/4″ for ease. So mine is 3 1/4″ tall. This will be the height of your elastic casing. The width will measure from the first front princess seam on the left, to the one on the right, plus one inch for fold under.

Press the two long edges in by 1/2″.

Press in short ends by 1/2″.

Place the strip on the inside of your jumpsuit so that it centers over the D ring markings.

Pin along long ends.

Edgestich along long ends.

Sew up the rest of the jumpsuit. I decided to wait on the buttons until the end but you can add those now if you want.

Cut a piece of elastic that is a few inches shorter than your waist- you will trim it more later.

Attach a safety pin to one end and insert it thru the casing, leaving ends extended.

Check the fit of the elastic. Dont make it too tight or it will pull on the buttons.

Once it’s right, trim and tuck the ends so that they tuck inside the short folded ends of the casing. Pin.

On the right side of your jumpsuit, stitch in the ditch of the princess seam at the section where it covers the waistband casing. Make sure it secures the elastic and closes up casing. It will look like this:

And that is it! A super easy and fun hack for the Rory Jumpsuit.



February 25, 2021

Today on the blog I am going to show you have to very easily hack the Salida Skirt pattern to be a mini skirt. I am not much of a mini skirt person in the summer, but I do love how it looks over tights with boots in the colder months. I especially like it paired with the Nikko Top or Marlo Sweater like I did in these styled photos.

For the fabric I used a medium black washed denim with just a bit of stretch from my stash. I love a black skirt and like that the washed denim gave it a bit more of a worn in feel.

We are going to be using View A as the base and making just a few changes to the pattern including removing the back slit. First grab your back center pattern piece for View A.

Decide how much length you want to take off. It must be enough length that the slit is no longer necessary. I decided to take about 5 inches of length off which calculated to about 3 inches down from the slit dot on the center back pattern piece once you take the hem allowance into account.

Mark the new cut length.

Draw the new cut line all of the way across.

Draw another line straight down from the back seam to eliminate the slit extension.

Trim your back center pattern piece.

Trim the same amount of length off of the other front and back pattern pieces.

Now we just need to adjust the hem area of the front and back side pieces since the area that we shortened to is at an angle. We need to make sure that the new hem line has enough width to be folded up to where it’s being hemmed to. The front and back center pattern pieces are straight in that area so they do not need to be adjusted.

Tape some paper at the hem of the side pattern piece.

Fold up by 1/4″ and then again by 3/4″.

Trim along the angled side seam.


Repeat for other side pattern piece.

That’s it for adjustments. Go ahead and sew up you Salida skirt according to the instructions. Skip over the parts where it talks about the back slit.

When it gets to the hem, fold up by 1/4″ and then again at 3/4″. Finish by sewing close to fold.

All done! I love my new mini Salida Skirt. I want to make another one in blue denim and maybe some colors. This is definitely something that was missing from my wardrobe.



February 11, 2021

I have a super fun and easy hack for you today. I am going to show you how to use the Marlo pattern to create a sweater vest. I am using the long version of the pattern, but this would also look great with View A – the cropped sweater view.

Begin by cutting out all of your pattern pieces except for the sleeve and sleeve band.

Grab one of your front sweater pieces. First we are going to take some of the width off of the shoulder. I decided to take off 1.5″ for mine, but you could take off more or less depending on how dropped you want the shoulder to be. From the new shoulder point, make a gradual line down to meet the underarm. Cut along the the line you made. Repeat for other front.

Do the same thing to your back Marlo piece.

Now, measure your new front and back armholes.

We will use my numbers as reference, but know that your numbers may be very different than mine.

Front armhole (FA) = 10in

Back armhole (BA) = 10.25″

FA (10) + BA (10.25) = 20.25″ – Shoulder Seam Allowances (.75″) = 19.5″

Now that we know the armhole measurement, we are going to calculate it at 80% (to accomodate 20% stretch)

19.5″ x .8 = 15.6″ = armhole band measurement.

Now cut two pieces of fabric that are the armhole band measurement x 4″. The stretch of the fabric should be along the width or 15.6″ measurement for mine.

Fold each band in half widthwise and sew into a tube.

With wrong sides touching, fold the tube up lengthwise in the middle like the following photo. Press and steam.

Sew up the shoulder seams and sides seams of your Marlo.

Align the seam of the band with the underarm seam of your Marlo. Stretch to fit the band along the rest of the armhole.

Sew the seam, stretching the band as you go. Press seam allowances towards sweater and the band out and away from the sweater.

Sew up the rest of the Marlo according to the instructions.

I love my Marlo Sweater turned Sweater Vest so much! Such a simple hack, yet a completely different look. I think I will be layering this over my Nikko top a lot this winter.