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PATTERN HACKS

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE RIOS WITH LONG SLEEVES

October 15, 2021

This week I sewed up the first two items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. I decided to start easy and begin with the two Rio Ringer T-shirts that were on the list.

For both of them, the plan was to use the crew neck / long sleeve hack that I did last year. You can find that blog post here which contains the tutorial. I won’t be going over the entire tutorial here since it is already in a blog post, but essentially I used the same fabric for the neckband as I did for the main shirt to create that crew neck look. For the long sleeves, I attached the Nikko sleeve to the Rio sleeve to add the long sleeve length.

Both of the fabrics were from my stash and unfortunately I don’t remember where I sourced them from. The light gray rib knit feels like a rayon or bamboo blend. It is lightweight and has a nice drape.

I was a bit worried that it would be too clingy in the end, but I actually love the result. It feels wonderful against the skin and very high end. I think this one will get so much wear as a layering piece. It feels like the perfect basic.

The striped knit feels a bit more synthetic to me. If I had to guess it is some sort of polyester blend which I normally avoid, but this stripe was too good to pass up. And, I actually think that the poly adds some structure to the rib knit that is quite nice.

I spent some time making sure that the stripes matched up, but other than that is was a super simple and fast sew. I love the retro feel to this one and think it’s going to pair so well with my Landers.

OK, that is it. These were fast sews which has me super excited to keep going on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe sewing next week.

OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

CURVED HEM MAVE HACK TUTORIAL

August 27, 2021

Apparently I can’t get enough of the Mave skirt, because I am back today with another hack for you. Today I will show you how to simply adjust the pattern for a curved hem look instead of the straight hem it comes drafted as.

You will need pattern piece 1 – (front and back). No other pattern pieces will be changed and you won’t be using any of the ruffles for this hack.

First, decide were you want the top of your curve to end at the side seams. This is essentially the top of your slit. I decided I wanted it to end about an inch below the mini cut line. Make a dot marking at this spot, 1/2″ in from the cut edge so it lands on the stitch line.

Next, decide how long you want the skirt in the front and back and make a horizontal line to mark this at center front / back. I decided this would look better if it hit a bit shorter than maxi so my marking is a few inches up from the bottom.

Now it’s time to free hand. Connect the bottom horizontal line to the side seam in a big, softly curving line. The top of the curved line should intersect the side seam just before the dot (which is on the stitch line).

Trim your new hem line.

Cut out your pattern pieces and start to assemble and sew your Mave skirt according the directions, except for the following changes made to the side seam and hem.

First, when you are finishing the side seam alllowances, stop the finishing at the dot. Sew your side seams down to the dot and back stitch to secure.

Finish the hems of both the front and back by first folding in by 1/4″ and pressing and then folding again at 1/4″ and pressing. Pin. Note that the seam allowances above the dot are both pressed towards the front as written in the instructions. At and below the dot, press seam allowances open to accommodate the hem as shown below.

Stitch the hem close to the inside folded edge. When you get to the dot, leave your needle down, pivot, stitch across just above dot, leave your needle, pivot, and stitch back around the other side or your hem. This will keep everything nice and flat and secure.

Give everything a good press and you are done.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

ANCHORED POCKET TUTORIAL USING THE MAVE SKIRT

August 11, 2021

Today I am going to teach you how to take a normal inseam hanging pocket pattern and turn it into an anchored pocket. This keeps the pocket from flopping around or turning to the back. This works for any pattern with an inseam pocket and waistband. I am going to be using the Mave skirt for this tutorial, but I also recommend you trying it out on the Southport dress pattern as well. The anchored pocket works best when you are using lightweight fabrics. If your fabrics are heavier you may find that it adds to much bulk to your waistline.

Start with your main front pattern piece and trace the top corner on a piece of paper.

Place the pocket on top of your tracing, matching up markings for placement and trace the pocket side and bottom curved edge. Then, connect the pocket straight up to the top of the skirt tracing like you see below.

This is what your new pocket should look like.

Cut out 4 pocket pieces (2 pairs).

Sew up your pattern according to the instructions, except treat the top of your pockets like the top of the skirt.

Before attaching the waistband, sew your pockets along the top edge to the front skirt. Then finish sewing the skirt like normal.

That’s it. Very simple hack that keeps your pockets anchored towards the front.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

FRONT SLIT / SLIP DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 30, 2021

We are back with the fourth and final Ogden hack as part of this year’s Ogden Month. I am obsessed with how simple and elegant this hack turned out. It also ended up being the easiest hack of all four. If you have sewn up the Ogden cami pattern before, this will be a very easy hack for you to pull off.

You will need all of your Ogden pattern pieces for this hack, but we will be altering the front and back pieces. Let’s start with the front.

Get a large piece of paper and draw long line down it to be the new CF line. Tape your front pattern piece up against the new CF line. Add 1/2″ to the CF line as the seam allowance since there will now be a seam down center front. You will need to make your best guess for how long you want your Ogden to be. I ended up making mine about 45″ in total length from the CF V to the hem. I am 5’3″ and this worked will for me. I suggest holding up a measuring tape and giving it your best guess. It’s always better to go longer than shorter. Make a dot where you think you want the top of your slit to end (go shorter on this knowing you can always sew down longer after trying it on.).

Draw a line straight out to the left at 90 degrees from CF to be your new hem line.

Now you need to draw the new side seam. I like to start at the chest and shave off some of the side seam around the hip. For me about 1.5″ is right but I recommend being conservative knowing you can always take in more later is you want. You want at least 4 inches of ease around your hips in the end. Once you hit the hips, draw straight down to connect to the hem.

For the back, do the same thing for the CB and hem except the back is on the fold (no need to add the 1/2″ seam allowance to CB). Use the front pattern side seam by flipping it over and copying it to your back pattern piece so that they match. Add notches to make it easier to sew up.

Cut out all of your pattern pieces as follows:

  • Front – cut 2 (1 pair)
  • Back – cut 1 on fold
  • Front Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Back Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Straps – cut 2 fabric and 2 interfacing

You may notice that I suggest interfacing your straps. Because of the extra weight caused by the dress length, as opposed to the cami length, I have found that interfacing your straps prevents them from stretching out with wear.

Finish the seam allowances of Center Front of each of your Front pieces. Sew them together at 1/2″ seam allowance from the top down to the slit marking and backstitch. Press seam allowances open above slit marking.

Now that the Front is sewn up it will act as one piece and you can sew up the top of your Ogden just like the instructions indicate.

Now for the slit. This is a good time to try on your Ogden and make sure you don’t want to adjust the sideseams or the slit length. Make those changes now if necessary.

Press your slit seam allowances back by 1/2″ on both sides below the slit marking.

Starsting at the bottom, stitch up one side at 3/8″. Stitch across just above the slit marking, and then sew back down the other side at 3/8″.

Finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress – I serged mine. You can also fold the raw edge in by 1/4″ if you want. Fold up by 1/2″ and press and pin. Stitch close too the edge to complete your hem.

And that is it! I just love the way that it turned out. Such an easy and simple Ogden hack. I hope you enjoyed it.

PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS TUTORIALS

TIE STRAP / ELASTIC WAIST OGDEN HACK

July 25, 2021

Welcome back to our third hack in the Ogden Month series. I am super excited about this one. Today I will show you how to make this tie shoulder / elastic waist blouse hack using the Ogden Cami pattern. Let’s get started.

You will need your front, back and strap pattern pieces for this hack. You will use the front and back to create the linings as well so don’t worry about the lining pattern pieces.

First let’s talk straps. Since the straps will be tied a the shoulder, we will need 4 instead of 2 of them. We will also need to lengthen them quite a bit. As a starting point I decided to make my straps 3 x their normal length. This was pretty close in the end.

Next, let’s work on the front. We want to shorten it since it will be ending at the natural waist instead of around the hip. I decided to take 3 inches off of the bottom as a starting point (we will take more off later once we try it on). Measure the 3″ up from the hem to keep the shape the same.

We also need to straighten out the sides since we no longer need the extra width for the hips. Starting around the bust area, I drew a line straight down to the bottom and trimmed it off like below.

Now, repeat everything that you did for the front to the back pattern piece.

Cut out

  • 2 fronts on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 2 backs on fold (one for the main and one for the lining.
  • 4 ties

Sew up your ties according to the instructions and set them aside.

Following the instructions for the Ogden cami, staystitch, sew each front to one back, and press. (You will have one main cami and one lining cami sewn up.)

On the main cami, pin one tie to each of the 4 strap points.

Following the Ogden instructions, sew the main and lining cami’s together, attaching all four straps at the same time.

Turn the Ogden right side out, understitch, and give it all a good press.

Now to figure out the elastic casing. I am using 3/4″ elastic for mine, but you can use whatever width you choose.

Put your Ogden on and tie the straps. Wrap your elastic around the natural waist (or wherever you want it to sit). Adjust your cami so that it has a small even amount of blousing above the elastic.

Using a marking tool, mark at the top of your elastic. It’s much easier to get a friend to help with marking the back.

Once marked, take off your cami. Make sure that the lining is laying flat underneath and fold along the center fornt and center back. Smooth out your markings like below (top marked line).

Measure and mark another line below the first to be your cut line. This one accounts for the extra amount needed for your elastic casing. The amount will be your elastic width x 2 + 1/4″ for space + 1/4″ press under. For me that looked like 3/4″ x 2 = 1.5″ + 1/4″ + 1/4″ = 2″.

Cut along the bottom line thru all layers.

Pull the main cami up and out of the way so you just have the lining extended. We are going to trim down the lining so it just tucks inside the casing by 1/4″.

So for me, I marked and trimmed off 1 3/4″ off of the lining.

Pull the main cami back down and make sure everything is flat and lining up. Turn it inside out. Press the main cami up by 1/4″ wrong sides touching.

Press it up again by 7/8″ (or your elastic width plus about 1/8″). It should cover the lining by about 1/4″. Press and pin generously.

Edgestitch the casing closed, leaving a small 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

Cut your elastic to a comfortable length (Don’t make it too tight or it will ride up when you are wearing it.).

Insert the elastic thru the casing.

Overlap the ends and stitch the elastic to secure it.

Sew up the opening in the casing.

Trim loose threads and give it a good press. You are done!