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MAKES OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING FOR ADULTS

Capsule Wardrobe Black Hudson Pants

November 12, 2021

Today I am sharing the next item for my capsule wardrobe, which is a black pair of Hudson pants.

I sewed these up in a synthetic sweater knit from Surge Fabric Shop. It has a beautiful high end feel to it, but without the itchiness of a wool. I’m pretty excited about how they turned out. They feel like a luxurious loungewear pant that is a bit more elevated than a true sweat pant.

I did my normal adjustments of shortening the pattern for my 5’3″ frame and also used my high waist tutorial to adjust the rise on these. You can find that tutorial here. It’s a really easy tutorial and in my opinion gives a great modern fit.

For the drawstring on these, I used something called ribbon yarn from the craft store. I have also seen similar items called t-shirt yarn and tape yarn. All of them have a flat ribbon look while being knit. I believe they are used for crocheting, but I’m not sure. On the end of the drawstring I finished them with a black aglet. I bought these off etsy, but there are lots of types and weights to be found. I think it adds a nice, professional finish to it.

That’s it for today! I can’t wait to wear these over the holidays. I think they are the perfect pant to lounge around in or throw on a jacket with to run and errand.

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CAPSULE WARDROBE BELTED DANI PANTS

November 5, 2021

This week I continued on my True Bias Capsule Wardrobe by sewing up these Dani Pants in a lightweight plaid suiting. To make them a bit more dressy, I decided to add belt loops and the end result is exactly what I wanted. I will show you how I did this in the following tutorial. It really is an easy upgrade and makes the otherwise casual pants feel very work appropriate.

You will sew up the Danis according to the instructions until it comes to the waistband. At this point you will want to create your belt loops by cutting a strip of fabric that is about 17.5″ long and about 1 inch wide.

Finish one of the long edges.

Fold in the unfinished long edge to the wrong side by 3/8″ and press. Fold the finished long edge in by 1/4″ to the wrong side, covering the raw edges of the first fold, and press. Edgestitch along the two folded edges to secure.

Cut into 5 pieces – each about 3.5″ long.

Pin with right sides touching and pointing down, and sew them into the waistband at the following places.

  • two at the seams for the front waistband
  • two 1 inch behind the side seams
  • one at center back

Finish the waistband according to the instructions with the belt loops loose and pointing down. Make sure you have done all of your waistband topstitching before moving forward (the following photo only shows one of the lines of topstitching because I forgot to take a pic once all three were done.)

Turn under the top 1/2″ of each belt loop and pull up towards the top. Align it with the top line of topstitching. Sew a small line of stitching along the top edge of each belt loop to secure.

Since I know I will be wearing a belt with this pair of Danis, I decided to go ahead and omit the buttons and instead sew on some large hook and eyes for a flatter waistband.

That is it! I love my new belted Dani pants. The plaid matching was not fun, but was worth it in the end. Love how it looks styled with boots and a tucked in Nikko top.

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CAPSULE WARDROBE BUTTON FRONT ROSCOES

October 29, 2021

This week I sewed up the fifth and sixth items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. This time I decided to sew up two Roscoe blouses. I have quite a few Roscoe blouses already in my closet so I decided to use the button front Roscoe hack from the Sew Tessuti Blog.

I won’t go into the whole tutorial since Tessuiti already did, but essentially then have you add width to CF to accommodate a button placket and add a bit of height to the neckline as well. I would also add that you should add a bit of length to the neckline band to accommodate the button placket too. I forgot, so I made my button placket super skinny so it wasn’t a big deal. In the future, I would make it wider.

The tutorial also advises you to slash and spread your sleeve for more volume at the wrist. I decided to skip this since I feel like the Roscoe already has a lot of sleeve volume.

I used two fabrics for my blouses. The rust colored fabric is a very lightweight cotton lawn. It has a slight sheen to it and is a bit on the see thru side, but that doesn’t bother me. I adore this color and love how the cotton adds a bit of extra structure to this top.

The second fabric is a rayon crepe in ivory. I think this basic is going to get so much wear! It’s soft, has lots of pretty drape, and feels like an upscaled workhorse for my closet.

That is it for today. You can find the Roscoe in both 0-18 and 14-30 in my shop here. Excited to keep going on my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe next week where I get started on some pants.

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE RIOS WITH LONG SLEEVES

October 15, 2021

This week I sewed up the first two items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. I decided to start easy and begin with the two Rio Ringer T-shirts that were on the list.

For both of them, the plan was to use the crew neck / long sleeve hack that I did last year. You can find that blog post here which contains the tutorial. I won’t be going over the entire tutorial here since it is already in a blog post, but essentially I used the same fabric for the neckband as I did for the main shirt to create that crew neck look. For the long sleeves, I attached the Nikko sleeve to the Rio sleeve to add the long sleeve length.

Both of the fabrics were from my stash and unfortunately I don’t remember where I sourced them from. The light gray rib knit feels like a rayon or bamboo blend. It is lightweight and has a nice drape.

I was a bit worried that it would be too clingy in the end, but I actually love the result. It feels wonderful against the skin and very high end. I think this one will get so much wear as a layering piece. It feels like the perfect basic.

The striped knit feels a bit more synthetic to me. If I had to guess it is some sort of polyester blend which I normally avoid, but this stripe was too good to pass up. And, I actually think that the poly adds some structure to the rib knit that is quite nice.

I spent some time making sure that the stripes matched up, but other than that is was a super simple and fast sew. I love the retro feel to this one and think it’s going to pair so well with my Landers.

OK, that is it. These were fast sews which has me super excited to keep going on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe sewing next week.

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CURVED HEM MAVE HACK TUTORIAL

August 27, 2021

Apparently I can’t get enough of the Mave skirt, because I am back today with another hack for you. Today I will show you how to simply adjust the pattern for a curved hem look instead of the straight hem it comes drafted as.

You will need pattern piece 1 – (front and back). No other pattern pieces will be changed and you won’t be using any of the ruffles for this hack.

First, decide were you want the top of your curve to end at the side seams. This is essentially the top of your slit. I decided I wanted it to end about an inch below the mini cut line. Make a dot marking at this spot, 1/2″ in from the cut edge so it lands on the stitch line.

Next, decide how long you want the skirt in the front and back and make a horizontal line to mark this at center front / back. I decided this would look better if it hit a bit shorter than maxi so my marking is a few inches up from the bottom.

Now it’s time to free hand. Connect the bottom horizontal line to the side seam in a big, softly curving line. The top of the curved line should intersect the side seam just before the dot (which is on the stitch line).

Trim your new hem line.

Cut out your pattern pieces and start to assemble and sew your Mave skirt according the directions, except for the following changes made to the side seam and hem.

First, when you are finishing the side seam alllowances, stop the finishing at the dot. Sew your side seams down to the dot and back stitch to secure.

Finish the hems of both the front and back by first folding in by 1/4″ and pressing and then folding again at 1/4″ and pressing. Pin. Note that the seam allowances above the dot are both pressed towards the front as written in the instructions. At and below the dot, press seam allowances open to accommodate the hem as shown below.

Stitch the hem close to the inside folded edge. When you get to the dot, leave your needle down, pivot, stitch across just above dot, leave your needle, pivot, and stitch back around the other side or your hem. This will keep everything nice and flat and secure.

Give everything a good press and you are done.