Like just about everyone else in the sewing community, I fell hard for the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I’ve made three in all and am trying to not give in to making a fourth. It’s that good.
I think the thing I like the most about the Zadie Jumpsuit is how easy it is to wear. I find that it truly is one of those items that you can dress up or down. I keep grabbing them every time I travel along with flats for daytime and wedges / statement jewelry for going out at night.
This first version is sewn up in a black cupro rayon / linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics. I am loving cupro right now because it has a nice expensive sheen to it, but with the ease of care and simple sewing of a linen.
I did have to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern. I sized down one whole size and still ended up taking some width out of the hips. I also took an inch out of the bodice length, and inch out of the rise and and inch out of the pant length. I am 5’3″ so that is not surprising.
This second version is sewn up in some rayon crepe gifted to me from The Fabric Store. It has a deconstructed dot pattern that feels a little hand drawn which I love.
Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with right now. It has a great weight to it which adds a bit of drama, but it is still easy to sew and take care of. They have a lot great rayon crepes right which are worth checking out.
For the shorts version all I did was was shorten the pattern to about the knee, and then once I was finished sewing the rest of the pattern I tried it on. Then I marked where I wanted it hemmed all the way around the leg and was able to shorten it evenly that way.
I love the way that my Zadies turned out and love wearing them. You can find the pattern at Paper Theory if you want to sew one up for yourself.
I bought this silk crepe fabric over a year ago specifically to make a Suki kimono and I am so glad that I finally did. I am obsessed with it. It’s everything I hoped for and feels so luxurious to wear when I am getting ready in the morning. I am a big fan of robes so this is my third to make so far. All three get tons of wear.
The fabric is a paneled watercolor floral of in silk crepe de chine that I bought at Mood. The edges were black so I was able to use those bits of fabric for the neck band, ties and sleeve cuffs. I really like how that helps the cool design details to pop. It also gives a more modern edge to the floral fabric.
I really loved sewing this pattern. It was just challenging enough to keep it interesting and feel like I was learning new things, but easy enough to stay stay enjoyable. The instructions are great and I love the small design elements like the neck band detail which help this pattern to stand out.
I keep thinking about how great this would be as a holiday gift for someone special. Although I might not sew it in silk again because I’m not sure how this will wash. I think a rayon or voile would be perfect for my next one.
The original Nikko pattern includes pattern pieces for a top (with or without sleeves) that is fitted, and a dress that is straighter through the waist and hips. I wanted to combine the two for a Nikko dress that is more body con like the top is. It’s a very easy hack so I thought I would share.
First of all you will use the top pattern pieces instead of the dress one since it has the more fitted waistline. I decided to use the sleeved version, but this would just as easily work for the sleeveless one. The only pattern pieces that you will be adjusting is the front and back. The neckband and also the sleeves or sleeve facings stay the same.
All you are going to do is lengthen the center front and center back straight down as those are cut on the fold. For the side seams you want to gradually angle it in about an inch so that it is fitted at mid calf. How long you extend it is up to you, but I would say somewhere between 20-30 inches from the original hem.
Once you have cut and sewn the Nikko according the the instructions, I find it really helpful to try the dress on inside out and mark any areas that I want to pull in a bit and make adjustments. I then hemmed it using fusible knit tape like the pattern suggests. Because the pattern calls for really stretchy knits you don’t actually need a slit at the hem, just make sure that you use a very forgiving stretch stitch to finish it.
Let’s talk a bit about fabric. I used a thick ribknit from The Fabric Store for this. I think that the thickness really is key to a body con dress so that it has more coverage. Rib knits are especially good for this. They kind of hide any lines or bumps that you may not want to draw attention to.
That’s it! Super easy hack for a fun dress. Can’t wait to wear it for date night.
One of my goals for this year was to dive into sewing lingerie. It’s something I have wanted to master for awhile, but have been seriously intimidated by. I am a pretty confident sewist, but bras are one of those things that has felt like a new craft. It didn’t feel intuitive to me so the learning curve was steeper than I was use to. To get over my fears, I decided to take a class from Amy of Cloth Habit at Fancy Tiger Crafts.
It was such an amazing intensive where I was able to get over my mental hurdle and realize that bra making really isn’t that hard. In fact, start to finish, it’s just a few hours so you improve and get confident really quickly. The hardest part is fitting the bra since you really can’t check fit until you’ve sewn a whole bra. Luckily Amy gave us each a fitting during the class. The problem was that my body went through some changes right after the class and so my bra size changed. When Braugust (Bra August) was announced, I decided to use the month to really tackle the Harriet bra again.
During the month of August I made up three different versions of the Harriet bra. I made small tweaks to each one for fit, but all three are wearable. I can’t get over how pretty and delicate they look.
The light blue and black bras were my first two. The lace and findings for these bras both came from Tailormade. I love her kits. It makes it so much easier knowing that you have all of the small parts to make a bra.
The rust colored bra is probably my favorite and was the last bra I made. I had a bunch of white lace and elastics in my stash left over from other projects that I threw into a dye bath. All of the parts came out in different shades from light pink to dark orange. I am pretty obsessed with how ombre affect that this gives when you combine them all into one bra.
Now that I have a great fitting Harriet bra I want to take some of the scraps and try to make some matching undies. I am also interested in trying out a foam version of the Harriet. I see lots more lingerie sewing in my future as it seems to be the perfect palette cleansers between working on my own patterns and larger projects.