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True Bias

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

INTRODUCING THE MINI NOVA JUMPSUIT

September 3, 2020

We are so excited to be launching the mini version of the Nova Jumpsuit pattern today. Just like the adult version, the Mini Nova pattern is a knit, pull-on jumpsuit with no fiddly closures. It has four views. Views A and B have a wide elastic waistband and inseam pockets. Views C and D have a straight fit through the waist and attached front pockets. Views A and C are a short romper length while Views B and D are long with an elastic casing at the ankle.

This pattern works best in light to medium weight knits with at least 20% stretch. I prefer stable knits like cotton interlock or t-shirt jersey. You can also use slinkier knits like rayon or bamboo, just know that these fabrics have a tendency to grow as you sew them so you may need to size down, especially in the height, to accommodate.

The pattern is PDF only for now and is offered in size 2T-10.

The instructions, other than a different width of elastic, are just the same as the adult pattern. We will be doing a complete sewalong next week for all size ranges of the pattern. I hope you will join us!

You can find the pattern in our shop here.

TUTORIALS

HOW TO ADD A DART TO THE 0-18 OGDEN

August 31, 2020

Today on the blog I am going to show you one of my most frequently requested tutorials – how to add a dart to a dartless Ogden (sizes 0-18). It is a simple process and I am excited to show you step by step how to achieve this for your self.

The 0-18 size range of the Ogden is drafted for a sewing size C cup. This is not the the same as a ready to wear size. In sewing, a 3 inch difference between your upper and full bust equals a C cup. A 4 inch difference is referred to as a sewing D cup and so on. So to start, you want to take your full bust and upper bust measurements.

For the purposes of this tutorial, there is a 4 inch difference in my full and upper bust. Since the 0-18 Ogden is drafted for a C cup or 3 inch difference, I will choose a size that is 1 inch smaller than my full measurement. I will then want to add a dart that will add an inch to the front Ogden pattern piece to make up the difference.

You are going to need your front Ogden pattern piece, a ruler, pencil, markers, scissors, tape, and extra paper.

Start by locating your bust apex. This is different on everyone. The easiest way is to hold it up to your body and approximate the location. You may move it up or down after sewing up a muslin, but make you best guess. Mark it will a cross.

Now draw the following 3 lines.

1 – From the apex to the hem. Make sure it is parallel to the CF.

2 – From the apex to the side seam.

3 – From the apex to the armhole notch.

Cut from the hem along line one. Continue to cut line 3, leaving it barely attached at the notch. Cut again from the side seam along line 2, leaving it barely attached at the apex.

Take another separate piece of paper and draw two parallel lines. The distance between them should be the amount you want to add to the front, divided by two. Since I want to add 1″ of volume to the front, I am going to draw the two lines 1/2″ apart.

Use these lines to separate line 1. Tape in place.

Notice that the hem becomes uneven. That is OK. As a bust gets larger, it needs extra length in the front. Redraw the hem so it is even.

Trim off excess. This becomes your new hemline.

Now to finish the dart. Measure the opening created from line two. This is your dart opening measurement. Mark the middle.

Draw a new line connecting the middle marking to your apex. This is going to be the top leg of your dart.

Measure out 1 1/2″ from the apex along this line and make a mark. This will be the end of your dart.

Along the side seam, measure down from this top dart leg, the amount of your dart opening and make another mark.

Draw your bottom dart leg from this marking to end of your dart marking (1 1/2″ out from the apex).

I went over the final dart legs in green to make them easier to see.

Take your bottom dart leg and fold it up to the top dart leg. This can feel a bit awkward in paper but you can do it.

I like to put a pin in it to keep it closed.

To even out the side seam, you are going to take a rule and redraw that side seam to be smooth. Cut along the line.

Open up the dart to see the new dart shape.

That is it! Do the same adjustment to the front lining pattern piece as well so they match.

I hope that was helpful!

TUTORIALS

DOUBLE STRAP OGDEN RUFFLE DRESS TUTORIAL

August 25, 2020

I am truly honored to be asked to do a hack tutorial for one of my tried and true patterns, the Ogden Cami. I love the Ogden Cami because it is such a simple yet essential pattern in most closets. Its simplicity makes it such a great base for endless hacks. Today, I’ll be showing how to achieve a high-low ruffle dress with double straps using this lovely pattern. 

I made a size 14 using the version with no darts since I have that version adjusted to my preference. For reference, my measurements are 40” bust, 34” waist, 45” hips

Step 1 – Lengthen the back pattern to your desired length. I lengthened my by 12 inches and graded out at the hips as I cut the fabric. Keep in mind that you’ll be adding a ruffle so it should be considered for length.

Step 2 – Lengthen the front pattern similar to the back pattern piece. Mark 2inches from the bottom as shown in the illustration and connect the hem from one side to create a curve. *If you want the high-low to be more dramatic, you can mark higher.

Step 3 – Reduce the width of the pattern strap and cut four straps instead of the usual two. I cut mine at 1.25 inches wide to achieve skinnier straps since there’ll be two on each side. The length of the strap pattern piece does not change.

Step 4 – Sew your Ogden Cami up following the pattern instructions. For the straps, insert two on each side instead of one.

Step 5 – Measure the hem of your sewn up cami, multiply the measurement by 2. This will your ruffle measurement. Choose your desired height (I made this one 10 inches long). You are now ready to cut out your ruffle piece.

Step 6 – Gather your ruffle using your preferred method and attach it to the main dress. Hem the dress.

And there you have it! A new high low Ogden dress with double straps! To change up the look, you can belt the dress when you feel like or enjoy its easy breezy style without a belt. I hope you enjoyed this simple tutorial and it was easy enough to follow. Don’t forget that small changes can go a long way.

Happy Sewing!

Sylvia

TUTORIALS

OGDEN BABY DOLL DRESS TUTORIAL

August 20, 2020

Today I am going to teach you how to use the Ogden to create a really fun and simple baby doll dress. I sewed up this dress using rayon fabric that I designed in collaboration with Workroom Social awhile back. You can find the fabric here. There are so many fun prints to choose from. This rayon is really the perfect fabric for a dress like this. It is soft and has lots of movement while still being opaque and easy to wash and wear.

For this hack you will only need three pattern pieces. You care going to set aside the main front and back pieces and just use the strap piece and the front and back lining pattern pieces.

You are going to cut out your strap pieces like normal. For pattern pieces 3 and 4 you are going to add 1 inch to the bottom of the pattern. This gives a bit more coverage than the lining which still being short and cropped like a babydoll dress. You can definitely add more or less depending on your preference. You will cut out 2 of each of the front and back lining pieces. One set will be for the main bodice pieces and the other set will be for the lining pieces for a fully lined bodice.

For the skirt portion of the dress we are going to be cutting out two rectangles. Decide how long you want the skirt portion and add a few inches for seam allowance, hem allowance and a little wiggle room. For the width you are going to cut it 1.5 x the width of the bottom of your front and back bodice pattern pieces. I cut out a size 8 and found that each of mine measured about 10in. I multiplied that by two since it is cut on the fold. making the front and the back about 20″ each. So, 20″ x 1.5 means that I cut two rectangles that were each 30″ wide and about 25″ long. Obviously all of these measurements are subjective.

Now that everything is cut out, let’s get sewing. To start off sew the bodice portion of your dress just like the Ogden instructions letting one set of front / back be the main bodice and the other will act as the lining..

Try on the bodice section of your dress. When you stand to the side, the hem should be even front to back. If not, go ahead and trim it.

Take the lining and press the hem of the lining only up by 3/8″ all of the way around.

For the skirt portion of your dress, sew up the side seams, and finish the side seams be serging, using a zigzag stitch, pinking, or by sewing french seams. To make it easier, mark the center of the front and back skirt along the top.

Add two rows of gathering stitches to the front and skirt panels. The first row should be at 3/8″ and the second at 5/8″. Gather the top of the skirt so it matches up with the main bodice and pin it (keep the lining up and out of the way).

Once you have pinned it and the gathers look even, Stitch the skirt to the main bodice at the normal 1/2″ seam allowance.

It should look something like this.

Press the seam allowances up towards the bodice.

Pull the lining down and pin it so that it just covers the stitch line. This is a good place to use zipper tape if you have it.

On the right side of the dress. Stitch in the ditch at the seam line, catching the lining in the stitching on the underside.

It should look like this on the right side.

And like this on the inside.

Give your dress a try on and check the length. Mark where you want it to end. Add 1″ for the hem and trim off any excess.

Fold the hem 1/4″ and then another 3/4″. Press and pin. Stitch to finish.

That is it! I love how this hack for the Ogden cami turned out so much! I have already made another one in black and have plans to make a third with an added ruffle for a maxi length dress.

I hope enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful. If you need to purchase the Ogden you can do so here.

TUTORIALS

OGDEN CAMI TIE STRAP HACK TUTORIAL

August 18, 2020
Woman and child wearing matching pink Ogden Camis stand in front of greenery.

Hi everyone! My name is Holly from HollyDolly (@hollydollydarling on Instagram). I was so excited that Kelli asked me to contribute to the Ogden Cami month with a hack tutorial! I’ve made a few different Ogden hacks in the past, including gathered tiered dresses and scalloped edges. But today I thought I would share one of the most simple and popular hacks you can do – easy peasy tie straps! I’m kind of obsessed with adding adjustable ties straps on everything these days, so this is a perfect hack for me to show you. 

Now, if you follow me on Instagram, you may know that my “thing” is making matching mommy-and-me-looks for me and my 4 year old, Penny. So seeing that there is also a mini Ogden cami pattern, of course I had to include both! I’ll be showing you the ties straps done on both the adult and mini pattern. 

Woman wearing pink Ogden Cami with tie straps stands in front of greenery.

FABRIC

The Ogden works in so many different different fabric choices, from cotton to silk, drapey to stable. I find that the mini Ogden works best in something with just a tiny bit of structure that’s easy to work with, like a shirting cotton or quilting cotton. Also remember – your fabric choice will reflect how the bows of your tie straps lay. Drape fabrics will produce drapey bows, while a quilting cotton or something similar will create a bow that stands up more. 

For our camis, I went with one of the latest Warp and Weft cottons, which I got from Topstitch ATL

Side view of child wearing a pink tie strap Ogden Cami.

YARDAGE

Because this is such a simple hack, you shouldn’t need any extra yardage for the ties other than what is listed on the Ogden/mini Ogden instructions. 

Ogden cami strap piece is shown above 4 cut tie straps.

Ok, so let’s get started making the ties straps. You will need to cut 4 straps instead of two, all of which are at least double the length of the strap pattern.

For the mini Ogden, as you can see above, I made the length exactly twice the length as the pattern. But for my adult version, as you’ll see in the final product below, I made my ties extra long. A little over 3 times the length of the pattern. There’s no rule to exactly how long your ties have to be – it’s up to you. As long as it is at least twice the length of the pattern, and you cut 4. 

A sewn tie strap for the Ogden Cami is shown with one end folded over twice.

Sew the 4 straps exactly as described in the instructions. Use a loop turner to turn them right side out, and press. 

Then, on each of the 4 straps, turn under one end twice, and press. 

Tie strap end is shown folded over and stitched.

Stitch across the turned under edge, close to edge, to close. Repeat for each of the 4 straps. 

Tie straps are shown pinned to the top of an Ogden Cami.

Continue sewing the rest of your Ogden cami exactly as instructed. The only difference – you’ll be placing all four straps in place, front and back, before sewing the facing on. No need to leave openings when sewing around the back facing to add the back straps – they’ll already be in place. You can just sew the facing all at once! 

Tie straps are shown pinned to front and back of Mini Ogden Cami.

Same goes for the mini. Place the two straps on the front before sewing the facing on. And then two straps on the back. Just remember that the straps on the back go on the wrong side of the fabric, just as directed in the instructions. 

Ogden Cami and Mini Ogden Cami are shown side by side with straps attached.
Ogden Cami and Mini Ogden Cami are shown side by side with straps attached and tied.

That’s it! Once you’ve finished up the facing and hem, you can just tie your straps and they are ready to wear!

Close up of shoulder ties shown on woman wearing pink Ogden Cami.

Of course, the best thing about this hack is being able to adjust the straps as needed. No need to try and get the tie length perfect during construction. You can adjust the length depending on if you are wearing the cam alone, or over top a tee underneath. It also works well for nursing mamas!

Child wearing pink tie strap Ogden Cami stands in front of greenery.
Back View of tie strap Mini Ogden Cami is shown on child standing in front of greenery.

I love how the mini Ogden still has the same look as the adult cami in the front, but with the difference of the straight, elastic back. I think this makes it a lot more comfortable for her, and could also extend its wear, since she grows so fast! 

Mother and child wearing matching Ogden Camis and brown pants stand in front of greenery.

I also love the extra long straps that I did on mine, just because I love that detail. I love long ties! But I think the shorter length is perfect on hers (not as extra long like on mine), that way she isn’t accidentally pulling on them and untying them! It’s such a cute detail on the mini. 

And if you’re wondering – yes, she actually does love matching me. For now, anyway, haha. I know one day she won’t think it’s cool anymore, So I take full advantage of it now!

Smiling child wears pink tie strap Mini Ogden Cami.

I mean, just look how happy and cute she looks in her new top!

Woman wearing pink tie strap Ogden Cami and brown pants stands in front of greenery.

Thank you all for following along, I hope you enjoyed this hack! And thank you to Kelli for having me here on her blog! Don’t forget that you can follow along with me over at @hollydollydarling. I’m sure I’ll be sharing more Ogden versions in the future.