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True Bias

SEWING TUTORIALS

SEVENTIES INSPIRED PATCH POCKET LANDER TUTORIAL

February 6, 2020

The Lander Pant and Short is the perfect blank canvas to create a very 70’s inspired patch pocket pant or short. Whether using the original button fly pattern or the zipper expansion, with just a few changes and the free patch pocket download (below), you will be all set.

The first thing I recommend doing is leaving off both the original front and back pockets. You will be replacing the front pockets with the patch pocket pattern pieces and I would just leave off the back pockets all together. This really adds to the 70’s look of the pant.

Go ahead and sew up your Landers through the creation of the fly. I recommend adding the patch pockets at the step where you baste the side seams of your Landers. This means pausing after step 19 in the original instructions and after step 26 in the zipper expansion instructions. Once you get to this step, set your pants or shorts aside and create your pockets.

A few things about the patch pocket pattern pieces. They come in sizes small, medium and large and recommended size ranges for each one. These are just suggestions though. You could use any of these pattern pieces on any size of Lander depending on how big you want to your pocket to be. This is your own personal preference. For reference, both of my samples were sewn with the small pocket sizes on a size 6 pant. I think next time I will try the medium size.

Another thing to note is that there are two different shapes to choose from. The angled pocket and the rounded pocket. The construction is very similar, although I would say that the angled pocket is a bit easier, so keep that in mind when choosing.

Click on the link below to access the pdf file. Print your pattern pieces off making sure you are using no scaling and printing at 100%. Cut out two coordinating pockets from your main fabric and make sure to mark your notches.

https://www.truebias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/TRUE-BIAS-LANDER-PATCH-POCKET-1.pdf

Unless stated the following instructions apply to both the angled and rounded patch pocket patterns.

Step 1 – With wrong sides touching, press in the top edge by 1/4″.

Step 2 – Take this folded edge and press it back at the notches, right sides touching. Pin in place on each side.

Step 3

Angled Pocket Only – Starting at the upper right hand corner, stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance down the right side, around the bottom, and up the left side, pivoting at each corner and backstitching at the beginning and end.

Rounded Pocket Only – Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the upper left and right sides for the distance of the folded down band backstitching to secure.

Rounded Pocket Only – Starting and stopping below the band and using a basting or gather stitch length, stitch around the sides and bottom of the rounded pocket in 1/2″ seam allowance. Slightly pull on the top thread to “gather” the bottom rounded section of the pocket. This will help turn in the seam allowance smoothly.

Step 4 – Clip the top corners and turn the folded edge right side out. Fold in the seam allowance at the stitching line. Give it a good press.

Step 5 – Topstitch along the bottom folded edge of the band to secure as shown in the picture.

Step 6 – Now it is time the attach the pockets to the front of your Landers. Like I mentioned before, the best time to do this is when you are basting the side seams for fit. I recommend pinning them on where you think they should go first. This is personal preference and takes some trial and error, but just to give you a ball park, mine were about 3 inches from center front and 2 inches from the top raw edge of my Lander fronts. Once they are pinned on, baste the sides seams of your Landers and try them on. Adjust the position of your pockets as necessary.

Step 7 – Once you are happy with the placement, pin them to secure. Pay extra attention to measuring their placement so they are equal from center front and the top. The fly can make them look unbalanced so you really have to trust your ruler for this step. Rip out the basting on the sides seams of your Landers and topstitch the sides and bottom of the patch pockets on. Do this before you sew up your sides in it’s final stitch length.


That is it! Sew up your Landers according to the normal instructions and you are good to go.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

ROSCOE NOW AVAILABLE IN SIZES 0 – 30

December 12, 2019

We are very excited to announce the release of a more inclusive size range for our Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewing pattern. The Roscoe has always been a fan favorite, so when we were asking which patterns you would like to see in the new 14-30 size range first, the Roscoe was top of the list. We are so glad that we were able to get this to you just in time to make one up for those holiday parties and events at the end of the year.

The 14 – 30 size range of the Roscoe is drafted for a D cup, instead of the C cup in our original 0 – 18 size range. Other than that, the style, overall look, and instructions are the same. Just like the original pattern, the style is oversized with lots and lots of ease so I do recommend sizing down if you want a slightly more fitted look or if your fabric has more stability like a lawn or linen.

My favorite fabric to use for the Roscoe is rayon challis or rayon crepe. I used rayon crepe from The Fabric Store for both of these samples and the drape and weight of this fabric gives the optimal amount of drama and movement.

If you have bought the Roscoe from us in the past, you do not need to rebuy the extended range. You will be getting an email from us including the new size range for free.

Both size ranges of the Roscoe PDF are 20% off thru this Sunday, December 15th with the code ROSCOELOVE.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LODO DRESS NEW SIZE RANGE

November 5, 2019

We are very excited to announce the launch of a new and improved size range for the Lodo dress sewing pattern. You can now purchase the Lodo in either a size range of 0 – 18 with a C cup or a size range of 14 – 30 and a D cup. The Lodo is our first pattern that has our new size range and we couldn’t be happier with the result. We are currently working on some of our other patterns behind the scenes and can’t wait to show those to you soon.

You may wonder how the size 14 – 30 version differs from the original size 0 – 18 design. The answer is not very much. Our size 14 – 30 size chart and block has a slightly more curvy set of dimensions than our size 0 – 18 block. As a result it is drafted for a D instead of a C cup (meaning a 4″ rather than a 3″ difference between your full and high bust) and has a 1″ larger difference between the waist and hip circumference. Both size ranges are drafted for an average height of 5’5″. You can see our new size chart below.

To accommodate the fuller bust on our new block, we added a bust dart to the 14 – 30 size range of the Lodo. Not only does this give you a bit more room in the bust area, but it also gives you a place to make adjustments for fuller or smaller busts if needed.

Other than the dart, the shape and design of the Lodo should look just the same as the 0 – 18 design. It has a subtle cocoon shape to the body of the dress, hitting a couple of inches above the knee for View B and mid-calf for View A. View A also has a center back slit for movability.

This updated and slightly more sophisticated version of a T-shirt dress is best sewn up in structured knits such as ponte, scuba, and double knit . with an approximate 25% amount of stretch. It’s an easy sew that we think is perfect for all of the holiday events coming up.

Both PDF size ranges for the Lodo are 20% off through Sunday, November 10th (no code needed). You can find the Lodo in both size ranges in our shop here.

KNITTING

MOOSONEE SWEATER

October 2, 2019

Last year when it seemed like all of instagram was knitting up sweaters from Good Night Day, I too decided to give it a go. I had started and given up on a few other knitting projects, but fell hard for the chunky turtleneck and cropped length of the Moosonee sweater so I thought I would give it a try.

After a lot of indecision I finally landed on the merino wool Chill yarn from Sugar Bush Yarns in the color Wintery Wine. I have to admit that this took me an entire year to knit. No because it should have. It’s a quite an easy knit and the chunky yarn knits up really fast, but I just had a hard time sticking to it. I am still very much a beginner knitter so every time I sat down to knit I had to really concentrate.

The final result is far from perfect, but I am pretty pleased with myself nonetheless. I knitted a whole sweater! Which for me is huge. I can look past the mistakes. And the good thing about it taking a whole year is I finished it just in time for the weather to turn cold again.

I would definitely recommend this pattern for the beginner who is ready to take on their first sweater. For me, it’s been good to remember what it feels like to be a beginner at a new craft. This took a lot patience and some serious determination but the end result makes me want to start a new project right away.

SEWALONG

CALVIN SEWALONG DAY 5 : 16 – 19

September 6, 2019

Welcome to the last day of the Calvin wrap top and dress sewalong. The first thing we are going to do it try on the top or dress as it is to see if we need to make any changes.

Step 16 – To wear, lap the right front over the left, inserting the left tie through the buttonhole and wrapping it around the back to the front. Insert the right tie through the thread chain loop, wrapping it around the back and bringing it back to the front. Adjust the ring and sliders so that the dress / top is sitting at the correct height on your shoulders.

Secure the ties with a bow at the left side opening (when wearing) or center front according to your preference. I decided to tie it in the front this time but it’s completely up to you. Trim ties as needed so they are the same length when tied and the length that you prefer.

Check the garment’s hem length and shorten if necessary. Mark position for optional modesty snap at center front if desired.

Step 17 – Using a hand sewing needle and thread, sew the socket end of the snap to the outside of the left front at the marking you made.

Sew the ball end of the snap to the inside of the right front at the marking you made.

Step 18 – Fold under the end of each tie by 1/4″ and then again at 3/8″. Press (steam and starch really helps keep this pressed well).

Stitch along the folded edge to secure end.

Tip: If you put a piece of paper under the tie on your sewing machine it makes it easier to sew that very small bit of fabric.

Step 19 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the garment up by 1/4″, wrong sides touching. Press. Fold again by 3/8″ for the top and 3/4″ for the dress.

Press and pin.

Stitch close to the fold to secure the hem.

Congrats! You are finished.

I hope this sewalong was helpful. If you need to still need the Calvin pattern you can do so here for a pdf or here for a paper pattern.