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True Bias

MAKES OUR PATTERNS SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE MARLOS

October 25, 2021

This week I sewed up the third and fourth items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. This time I decided to sew up my Marlo sweaters.

The plan was to sew two. I decided to sew up the longer view in the black sweater knit. This sweater knit grew quite a bit while I was sewing it up. It also has a heavy drape, so it also grew a bit in length.

The end result is a nice, oversized grandpa style sweater that I love. I already have been wearing it ton. It worked great with leggings and a tank for an easy weekend outfit. Plus it keeps me nice and cozy.

The second Marlo that I sewed up, is the short cropped view. I used a more stable sweater knit for the main Marlo. For the bands I used a matching, thick rib knit.

The end result is a much more structured Marlo than the first. It almost feels like a jacket, more than a sweater. It feels a bit more dressy that the other. I love them both in different ways.

OK, that is it. I can’t wait to keep sewing on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe later this week.

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PATTERN HACKS SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

CAPSULE WARDROBE RIOS WITH LONG SLEEVES

October 15, 2021

This week I sewed up the first two items for my True Bias Fall Capsule Wardrobe. You can see the entire plans in my blog post here if you don’t know what I am talking about. I decided to start easy and begin with the two Rio Ringer T-shirts that were on the list.

For both of them, the plan was to use the crew neck / long sleeve hack that I did last year. You can find that blog post here which contains the tutorial. I won’t be going over the entire tutorial here since it is already in a blog post, but essentially I used the same fabric for the neckband as I did for the main shirt to create that crew neck look. For the long sleeves, I attached the Nikko sleeve to the Rio sleeve to add the long sleeve length.

Both of the fabrics were from my stash and unfortunately I don’t remember where I sourced them from. The light gray rib knit feels like a rayon or bamboo blend. It is lightweight and has a nice drape.

I was a bit worried that it would be too clingy in the end, but I actually love the result. It feels wonderful against the skin and very high end. I think this one will get so much wear as a layering piece. It feels like the perfect basic.

The striped knit feels a bit more synthetic to me. If I had to guess it is some sort of polyester blend which I normally avoid, but this stripe was too good to pass up. And, I actually think that the poly adds some structure to the rib knit that is quite nice.

I spent some time making sure that the stripes matched up, but other than that is was a super simple and fast sew. I love the retro feel to this one and think it’s going to pair so well with my Landers.

OK, that is it. These were fast sews which has me super excited to keep going on the rest of my Capsule Wardrobe sewing next week.

MAKES OUR PATTERNS PLANNING SEWING SEWING FOR ADULTS

TRUE BIAS FALL CAPSULE WARDROBE PLAN

October 8, 2021

It been a while since I have felt super excited about sewing anything but loungewear, but I am finally feeling the itch to sew “outside” clothes again. I decided to go big, so I put together a fall wardrobe plan for this year using only True Bias patterns.

Here are some of the rules I put together for myself as I planned out my capsule wardrobe.

1 – Only True Bias patterns (Hacks are OK) – Honestly, I can’t believe I have enough patterns to do a capsule wardrobe with them. This feels a bit like a milestone to me, but I digress. To get more mileage out of each pattern I am allowing hacks. Most of these hacks you will be able to find on my blog and I will link to all of them in case you want to do a similar look for yourself.

2 – Tight Color Palette With Mostly Solids – Keeping a really small color palette will let me mix and match these items the most. I landed on a fall color palette with rust, camel, gray, black and ivory as the main colors. Luckily these are the colors I already like to wear so it was not a hard choice. I am allowing a few prints in the mix to keep it interesting. I tried to keep them pretty tame though so they can go with as many things as possible.

3 – No Skirts or Dresses – I went back and forth on this one, but decided not to include skirts and dresses to keep the capsule very everyday wearable. I wear a lot of skirts and dresses in the warmer months, but Colorado gets cold fast and I just tend to avoid them this time of year. Also, with Covid still in our lives, I’m not doing a lot of going out so they just seemed unnecessary. With patterns like the Roscoe and Nikko that include dresses, I opted for the top version of those patterns.

4 – 13 Sewn Items Total – It was hard to narrow down, but 13 sewn items seemed like the right balance of enough items to have lots to mix and match and a small enough number that I could reasonably sew them all over the next few months. Keep in mind, that since these are all my patterns, I have sewn them many times and will not need to do any muslining. Whenever there is a pattern that I am sewing multiples of, I will batch sew them. These two facts make it much easier for me to sew this many items in just a few months. Also keep in mind that I am not including undergarments or any kinds of accessories in my total.

TOPS

Nikko Top (2)

  • black and white stripe ribbing – I’m thinking about cropping this one to just around the waist so there is not as much to tuck in, but otherwise it will be sewn straight from the envelope.
  • black knit – Last year I sewed up the Nikko using a square neck hack and I love it. This year I want to do the same thing but with a scoop instead of the square neck. I also want to scoop the back for a ballerina type look.

Roscoe Blouse (2)

  • rust cotton lawn – I will be sewing both of these blouses using the button front hack tutorial by Tessuti which you can find here.
  • ivory rayon crepe – I think this will be such a great basic. I will be using the button front Tessuti tutorial for this one too.

Rio Ringer T-shirt (2)

  • retro stripe ribbing – This will be sewn up using my long sleeve crew Rio hack from my blog which you can find here. I love this retro stripe and think it will be a big hitter in my wardrobe.
  • light gray ribbing – I decided I needed another basic layering piece and this light gray seemed to fit the bill. I will be using the crew long sleeve hack again for this one.

Marlo Sweater (2)

  • black sweater knit – I think this black Marlo is going to get so much wear. I will sew up the longer view of the pattern for this one.
  • rust sweater knit and ribbing – This really is the perfect color and can’t wait to wear this one. I will sew up the shorter version of the pattern for this color.

BOTTOMS

Lander Pant (2)

  • denim – I’ve been needing a classic pair of Landers for awhile. The plan is to sew this one straight from the envelope with buttons, patch pockets and all.
  • plaid suiting – I’m obsessed with the plaid 70s look and think it will be great for Landers. Since this fabric is closer to 7oz I am going to use the zipper expansion and omit the pockets for a cleaner look (and no plaid pattern matching). I also have some lining I can add if I think it needs more structure.

Dani Pant (2)

  • camel corduroy – I’ve been wanting a more weather appropriate pair of Danis since I drafted this pattern and think that a lightweight corduroy is perfect. The corduroy has a thin 21 whale and is only about 4oz (more of a shirting weight) so I don’t think it will be too bulky around the gathered waistline. At least that is what I am hoping.
  • plaid suiting – I am so excited about these plaid Danis. I am going to add belt loops to this pair so that I wear a belt with it for a bit more dressed up look.

Hudson Pant (1)

  • black sweater knit – This faux cashmere sweater knit has such a beautiful feel to it. I immediately thought it would make a luxurious pair of Hudsons. I’ve never used a sweater knit for the Hudsons before, but think it will make it feel a bit more upscale which I am excited about. I think this will be fun to style too.

OK, that is it. I’m not sure exactly how long it will take me to sew these all up, but I expect 2-3 months. I will be sharing all of my final makes here and will be documenting the process on instagram. Once done, I will mix and match all of the items to make as many outfits as possible and will show them all to you here. Can’t wait to get sewing!

SEWALONG SEWING

DANI FABRIC AND NOTIONS

September 14, 2021

Thank you so much for the enthusiastic response to the Dani short and pant sewing pattern. Today I wanted to go over the fabric and notions recommended for this pattern to give you the best results possible for your Dani.

The main fabric for the Dani should be a medium weight nonstretch woven. All of my samples were sewn up in linen / rayon blends, the two below are brussels washer linen, but you could also use cottons, twills, wool and any other medium weight fabric that will give you a nice crisp press. I would avoid polyester or any other fabrics that won’t press well due to the cuff at the bottom.

You will also want to source 1/3 yd of fabric for the pockets. I prefer a lightweight woven like cotton lawn or cotton voile so that it doesn’t add any bulk, but you can also use rayon challis or rayon bemberg. Quilting cotton is a bit on the heavier side for the pockets, but could be used in a pinch.

You will also want some lightweight fusible interfacing. My favorite is tricot, but any lightweight fusible will do.

All views will need a coordinating all purpose thread, 2 inch wide elastic, a safety pin for inserting your elastic, and a fresh needle for your sewing machine.

For Views A and B you will also need few other notions. You will need a zipper. Make sure to check your pattern to see what size zipper to buy. You shouldn’t have to shorten your zipper if you buy the recommended length. I recommend the basic plastic zipper and not the metal one. Metal zippers are best for jeans and I have found that they are a little heavy for a lighter weight garment. It’s best to find a zipper that coordinates with your fabric, but it should not be visible on the finished garment so don’t worry too much about that.

Views A and B also have two 5/8″ buttons to complete the waistband / zip fly. This is a really fun way to add interest if you can find some fun buttons. Although honestly, I usually just go with the classic tortoise shell ones. You can choose to source smaller or larger buttons if you want, just make sure that you adjust the buttonholes to match.

That should be it. Let me know if you have any questions. We will have our whole sewalong for the Dani on the blog next week.

OUR PATTERNS SEWING FOR ADULTS

INTRODUCING THE DANI SHORT & PANT

September 8, 2021

I am so excited to be introducing our newest pattern to you, the Dani short and pant. That Dani has an elastic waist, inseam and rear pockets, a small paperbag waist, and a cuff.

Views A and C are shorts with an approximate 3 inch inseam, while views B and D are pants with an approximate 27.5″ inseam.

Views A and B use a zip fly construction with two small buttons at the waist. These views are a bit more difficult and are best sewn up by the intermediate sewist.

Views C and D use a simple pull on, full elastic waist construction that is perfect for the beginner sewist or as a way to check fit before moving on to the fly option.

We will be going over fabric and notions more thoroughly in a future post, but for now, just know that this pattern is perfect for medium weight non stretch wovens. All of our samples are sewn up in linen rayon blends, but we also think that cottons and twills would work great. Just avoid any wovens that are too thick or rigid as they will create a lot of extra bulk at the gathered waistline.

The Dani is currently offered in PDF only (although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-32. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We will have a full sewalong in a couple of weeks if you would like help sewing it up. In the meantime, you can purchase the Dani here on sale through Sunday, Sept. 19th (no code needed).