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True Bias

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE MAVE SKIRT SEWING PATTERN!

April 14, 2021

I am so excited to be sharing our spring pattern, the Mave Skirt, with you. The Mave is an elastic waist skirt with a drawstring, inseam pockets and an optional lining. The skirt can be made with or without ruffles and in different lengths to create numerous options including mini, midi and maxi lengths depending on your preference.

The Mave may be our most beginner friendly pattern to date. We will be doing a full sewalong in a couple of weeks too, so even the most newbie sewist should be able to handle it.

The Mave skirt currently is offered in PDF only (Although we hope to print it soon.). It comes in two size ranges. You can choose between sizes 0-18 and sizes 14-30. Check out our listings to see both body and finished measurements to choose your size.

We like light to medium weight fabrics for this pattern. This could include rayon challis, linen, voile, lawn, chiffon and georgette to name a few. If your fabric is on the sheer side we recommend sewing up the optional lining. We will be talking more about fabrics and notions next week as we prepare for the sewalong so be sure to check back for that information.

One of our favorite things about the Mave skirt is that we used options instead of views. This means that there are tons of different versions of this skirt you can sew up by cutting at different lines on the pattern pieces or lengthening, shortening or simply omitting the ruffles. The instructions clearly show you where and what to cut for each option. It gives a lot of versatility to an otherwise simple pattern.

If you would like to purchase the Mave Skirt sewing pattern, you can do so here in my shop. Use the code MAVESKIRT for 20% off of the pattern through Friday, April 23rd.

SEWING TUTORIALS

MINI SALIDA SKIRT HACK

February 25, 2021

Today on the blog I am going to show you have to very easily hack the Salida Skirt pattern to be a mini skirt. I am not much of a mini skirt person in the summer, but I do love how it looks over tights with boots in the colder months. I especially like it paired with the Nikko Top or Marlo Sweater like I did in these styled photos.

For the fabric I used a medium black washed denim with just a bit of stretch from my stash. I love a black skirt and like that the washed denim gave it a bit more of a worn in feel.

We are going to be using View A as the base and making just a few changes to the pattern including removing the back slit. First grab your back center pattern piece for View A.

Decide how much length you want to take off. It must be enough length that the slit is no longer necessary. I decided to take about 5 inches of length off which calculated to about 3 inches down from the slit dot on the center back pattern piece once you take the hem allowance into account.

Mark the new cut length.

Draw the new cut line all of the way across.

Draw another line straight down from the back seam to eliminate the slit extension.

Trim your back center pattern piece.

Trim the same amount of length off of the other front and back pattern pieces.

Now we just need to adjust the hem area of the front and back side pieces since the area that we shortened to is at an angle. We need to make sure that the new hem line has enough width to be folded up to where it’s being hemmed to. The front and back center pattern pieces are straight in that area so they do not need to be adjusted.

Tape some paper at the hem of the side pattern piece.

Fold up by 1/4″ and then again by 3/4″.

Trim along the angled side seam.

Unfold.

Repeat for other side pattern piece.

That’s it for adjustments. Go ahead and sew up you Salida skirt according to the instructions. Skip over the parts where it talks about the back slit.

When it gets to the hem, fold up by 1/4″ and then again at 3/4″. Finish by sewing close to fold.

All done! I love my new mini Salida Skirt. I want to make another one in blue denim and maybe some colors. This is definitely something that was missing from my wardrobe.

SEWING TUTORIALS

MARLO SWEATER VEST HACK

February 11, 2021

I have a super fun and easy hack for you today. I am going to show you how to use the Marlo pattern to create a sweater vest. I am using the long version of the pattern, but this would also look great with View A – the cropped sweater view.

Begin by cutting out all of your pattern pieces except for the sleeve and sleeve band.

Grab one of your front sweater pieces. First we are going to take some of the width off of the shoulder. I decided to take off 1.5″ for mine, but you could take off more or less depending on how dropped you want the shoulder to be. From the new shoulder point, make a gradual line down to meet the underarm. Cut along the the line you made. Repeat for other front.

Do the same thing to your back Marlo piece.

Now, measure your new front and back armholes.

We will use my numbers as reference, but know that your numbers may be very different than mine.

Front armhole (FA) = 10in

Back armhole (BA) = 10.25″

FA (10) + BA (10.25) = 20.25″ – Shoulder Seam Allowances (.75″) = 19.5″

Now that we know the armhole measurement, we are going to calculate it at 80% (to accomodate 20% stretch)

19.5″ x .8 = 15.6″ = armhole band measurement.

Now cut two pieces of fabric that are the armhole band measurement x 4″. The stretch of the fabric should be along the width or 15.6″ measurement for mine.

Fold each band in half widthwise and sew into a tube.

With wrong sides touching, fold the tube up lengthwise in the middle like the following photo. Press and steam.

Sew up the shoulder seams and sides seams of your Marlo.

Align the seam of the band with the underarm seam of your Marlo. Stretch to fit the band along the rest of the armhole.

Sew the seam, stretching the band as you go. Press seam allowances towards sweater and the band out and away from the sweater.

Sew up the rest of the Marlo according to the instructions.

I love my Marlo Sweater turned Sweater Vest so much! Such a simple hack, yet a completely different look. I think I will be layering this over my Nikko top a lot this winter.

SEWING

TRANSITIONAL SHELBY

February 4, 2021

I decided to sew up a long version of the Shelby dress to layer in fall / winter and still get to wear in spring / summer. Most of the Shelbys in my closet are the short versions so I figured it was about time to give it a go.

For the fabric, I wanted something very 90s. I finally settled on this rayon crepe with a dark background and ditsy print. I love that it has that Laura Ashley vibe that I remember my mom wearing years ago. I bought it from Cloth Story Fabrics and it’s beautiful. Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with. It has such a nice drape and weight to it.

I like styling this dress with my Doc Martens and leather jacket for now. This is how I wore it for a stay-at-home date with my husband. It was nice to get dressed up even though it’s not necessary these days due to Covid. I always feel better though when I put on real clothes.

I am excited to style this again come spring. I am thinking I will keep it simple with sandals. Pretty sure this will get a lot of wear year round.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

IMPROVED SIZING FOR THE NIKKO PATTERN

January 22, 2021

We are so excited to be offering the Nikko top and dress pattern in a new extended size range. You can now purchase the pattern in sizes 0-18 ( C cup) and sizes 14-30 (D cup).

The Nikko pattern includes four views, all with a simple and stylish mock turtleneck. Views A and B are tops with a fitted silhouette.

Views C and D are straighter through the waist and hip, extending to the ankle, with knee-length side slits to complete the dress. Views A and C are both sleeveless, cut to resemble a racerback, but with enough coverage to wear a regular bra. Views B and D have long fitted sleeves that reach the wrist.

We like to call the Nikko pattern the t-shirt of winter. We wear ours all of the time. It’s great with a pair of simple jeans or used as a layering piece under a Marlo sweater. However you choose to wear it, we hope you find yours as versatile and comfy as we have.

To celebrate the update, both size ranges of the Nikko pdf pattern will be on sale thru next Friday, January 29th – no code needed.

Click on over to our shop to learn more.