It’s day 3 of the Dani Sewalong. Today is only for Views A and B as we will focusing on just the zip fly insertion. Make sure that you have your zipper ready to go. I prefer the lightweight, plastic zippers for the Dani, but you can also use the metal zipper if you like. If using the length of zipper suggested for your size, you should not need to shorten your zipper.
With the two fronts sitting wrong side up, make sure that your cut line for the right front extention is already marked. If not, use the pattern piece to do so or mark in 3/4″ from the edge. Trim the right extention.
Apply the left fly fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the left front only, as shown below, lining it up with the center front notch and dot.
With right sides touching, pin one front to its coordinating back at the inner leg seam.
Stitch. Finish seam allowances and press open or towards one side.
Finish the seam allowances of each crotch seam separately. Start at the back and continue around the crotch curve, all the way around the front extensions. This can be a little tricky around the fly extension curves and angles. Don’t worry, as these will be covered with the fly shield.
Fold back 1/2″ on the right front extension, so it’s even with the raw edge below, and press to create a guide line. Open back up.
Fold back the left front along the edge of the fusible interfacing (lining up with the center front notch and dot), and press to create a guide line. Open back up.
Open up each leg along the inner seam. With right sides touching, lay one leg on top of the other, matching up the side seams and notches. Be extra careful to line up the dots at the crotch seam. Pin.
Stitch crotch seam from center back to the center front dot and backstitch.
Position your short/pant so that the left front is facing up, and the right front is falling down and out of the way. Place your zipper face down so that the right edge (when facing down) of the zipper teeth is 1/2″ from the fold you created as a guide line. Depending on your zipper, this may be against or slightly inside the guide line. If you use a plastic zipper like me, it will be about 1/8″ in from the crease like shown below. The top edge is flush with the top raw edge of the short / pant. Pin.
Using a zipper foot, stitch along the left side of the zipper teeth as pictured, backstitching at the lower end to secure. Because the zipper pull is a bit bulky, you will not be able to sew completely straight at the top. Don’t worry about this- this line of stitching is not visible on the outside of the garment. If you force this line of stitching to be straight, it will push the zipper pull over and will therefore not stay hidden once the short / pant is finished. Remove pins along the zipper.
Turn the left fly extension to the inside of the short/pant along the foldline that you pressed earlier. Pin in place.
Unzip your zipper. With the short / pant facing up, place the folded right front edge against the edge of the zipper tape, aligning the fold with the zipper teeth. Pin in place.
Using a zipper foot, baste close to the folded edge to secure the zipper to the right front. Midway through stitching, leave the needle down and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible. Zip up the fly to make sure that everything is lying flat, and that the zipper is tucked neatly into the left side of the short / pant. Press the whole center front seam allowance towards the front left (when wearing) short / pant.
Align the topstitching guide (pattern piece 15) with the left front opening edge, as pictured. Using the paper pattern piece as your guide, mark the left fly stitching line on the outside of the short / pant.
Make sure that the seam allowances are still pressed towards the left front. Topstitch the fly through all layers along the marked line.
Fold the fly shield in half with right sides touching. Stitch the short angled end, using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim. Turn fly shield right side out and press. Finish the inner long edge of the fly shield with either a zig-zag stitch or a serger.
With the short / pant facing up and the zipper open, place the fly shield under the right front opening edge. The finished edge of the fly shield should slightly cover the right zipper tape. The fly shield should extend past the zipper teeth by 1 and 1/4″. This is important or the waistband will not fit correctly. Pin in place.
Using a zipper foot, topstitch the right front, on top of the line of previous basting, through all layers, catching the fly shield in the line of stitching. Keep the left front free as you sew. In order to sew close to the fold, midway through stitching leave the needle down, and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible, and backstitch. Remove basting stitches if visible.
Zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up.
Optional: zip up the fly and make sure that everything is lying flat and lined up. to secure the fly, sew a small (about 1/2″ long) bar tack through all layers (including fly shield) at the bottom of the inner curved stitching line, as pictured.
This is what it should look like on the right side.
This is what it should look like on the wrong side.
That is it for today. Come back tomorrow where we will finish the sides and waistband for Views A and B.