SEWING TUTORIALS

FRONT SLIT / SLIP DRESS OGDEN HACK

July 30, 2021

We are back with the fourth and final Ogden hack as part of this year’s Ogden Month. I am obsessed with how simple and elegant this hack turned out. It also ended up being the easiest hack of all four. If you have sewn up the Ogden cami pattern before, this will be a very easy hack for you to pull off.

You will need all of your Ogden pattern pieces for this hack, but we will be altering the front and back pieces. Let’s start with the front.

Get a large piece of paper and draw long line down it to be the new CF line. Tape your front pattern piece up against the new CF line. Add 1/2″ to the CF line as the seam allowance since there will now be a seam down center front. You will need to make your best guess for how long you want your Ogden to be. I ended up making mine about 45″ in total length from the CF V to the hem. I am 5’3″ and this worked will for me. I suggest holding up a measuring tape and giving it your best guess. It’s always better to go longer than shorter. Make a dot where you think you want the top of your slit to end (go shorter on this knowing you can always sew down longer after trying it on.).

Draw a line straight out to the left at 90 degrees from CF to be your new hem line.

Now you need to draw the new side seam. I like to start at the chest and shave off some of the side seam around the hip. For me about 1.5″ is right but I recommend being conservative knowing you can always take in more later is you want. You want at least 4 inches of ease around your hips in the end. Once you hit the hips, draw straight down to connect to the hem.

For the back, do the same thing for the CB and hem except the back is on the fold (no need to add the 1/2″ seam allowance to CB). Use the front pattern side seam by flipping it over and copying it to your back pattern piece so that they match. Add notches to make it easier to sew up.

Cut out all of your pattern pieces as follows:

  • Front – cut 2 (1 pair)
  • Back – cut 1 on fold
  • Front Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Back Lining – cut 1 on fold
  • Straps – cut 2 fabric and 2 interfacing

You may notice that I suggest interfacing your straps. Because of the extra weight caused by the dress length, as opposed to the cami length, I have found that interfacing your straps prevents them from stretching out with wear.

Finish the seam allowances of Center Front of each of your Front pieces. Sew them together at 1/2″ seam allowance from the top down to the slit marking and backstitch. Press seam allowances open above slit marking.

Now that the Front is sewn up it will act as one piece and you can sew up the top of your Ogden just like the instructions indicate.

Now for the slit. This is a good time to try on your Ogden and make sure you don’t want to adjust the sideseams or the slit length. Make those changes now if necessary.

Press your slit seam allowances back by 1/2″ on both sides below the slit marking.

Starsting at the bottom, stitch up one side at 3/8″. Stitch across just above the slit marking, and then sew back down the other side at 3/8″.

Finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress – I serged mine. You can also fold the raw edge in by 1/4″ if you want. Fold up by 1/2″ and press and pin. Stitch close too the edge to complete your hem.

And that is it! I just love the way that it turned out. Such an easy and simple Ogden hack. I hope you enjoyed it.

You Might Also Like

7 Comments

  • Reply Sarah Fleming July 30, 2021 at 2:55 PM

    I love this! Definitely going to try this hack. I am curious how much fabric this took?

    I have only so far done a test sew of the Ogden with some cheap cotton, but haven’t made a “final” top. I am wondering how the front facing is supposed to sit on the chest? Mine seems too short and essentially just goes to middle of breasts rather than bottom. I was debating just doing a full front piece instead but I’m not sure I have enough fabric for that. My high bust to bust is only a couple inches different, measurements are ~ 39, 33, 41. Thanks!

    • Reply truebias August 3, 2021 at 9:41 AM

      Hi, the facing should just pass your nipples, but you can certainly lengthen it. Alot of people like it to hang a couple of inches longer. As for yardage for the dress – I didn’t measure but it depends a lot on if you can fit your pieces side by side or not and how wide your fabric is. I think I used 2.5 yds for this one.

  • Reply MARTHA TWADDELL August 2, 2021 at 4:17 AM

    I have had good results by extending the facing by a couple of inches and making a casing. Insert elastic and you’ve got a built in bra. No worries about straps showing!

  • Reply Sue Volek August 2, 2021 at 5:22 PM

    Absolutely love this pattern, and the dress hack came just in time. I will drop the lining to at least the waist, I think. Thanks!

  • Reply Angie August 3, 2021 at 9:18 PM

    I can’t wait to try this. Did you use rayon fabric?

    • Reply True bias August 4, 2021 at 12:22 PM

      yes, it’s rayon crepe from The fabric Store.

    Leave a Reply