TUTORIALS

HIGH RISE HUDSON TUTORIAL

October 29, 2020

The Hudson pants sewing pattern was my very first pattern. Since it’s release, styles have changed and I often get the request for a high rise alteration. I am super excited to be sharing it with you today. I’ve made three pairs with this tutorial already and I love them so much.

The Hudson pant originally was drafted to sit about 2 inches below the belly button in the front. It then gradually raises up along the sides to meet at the natural waist at center back. So essentially we are going to be raising the front by 2 inches and evening out the sides so that it is at the same level as the back.

First gather your front pattern pieces. This includes pieces 1, 3 and 4 . Stack them on top of one another so they all line up. Grab a piece of paper and put it behind the top of your Hudson pattern pieces.

Draw a 2 inch line up at center front.

Draw a perpindicular line to the left at the top of the 2 inch line.

Continue that line straight to the left until it is over the side seam.

Connect the side seam up to meet the newly drawn waistline.

Measure out the lines at the center front, outside pocket edge, pocket opening edge, and side seam.

Transfer all of these new cut lines to pattern pieces 1, 3 and 4. They should look something like this once you have attached them all to paper.

Line them all up on top of one another to double check them and transfer the notch up to the new waistline. Mark on all three pattern pieces so they line up.

Now we are going to adjust the pocket opening. We added 1.5″ to the pocket opening. We are going to add back in 1″ at the bottom just to keep it looking balanced. We will not take off any of the extra length of the pocket bag though. This hack gives you a really nice deep pocket bag which I love.

Start with pattern piece 4. Tape it to a piece of paper and measure up by 1″ at the bottom of the pocket opening.

Gradually draw the pocket opening line to rejoin the original line like this.

Transfer this new cut line to pattern piece 1.

Line them up to make sure they match.

You are also going to need to lengthen the pocket detail pattern piece by just .25″.

Now for the back. You are going to raise the side seam by the same measurement as the front side seam. For me it was 1″.

Draw a line from the top of this line to the center back.

Trim the back pattern piece and you are done.

You sew up the Hudsons using the same instructions as the original pattern.

I hope this was helpful! I love my new high rise Hudsons so much. If you need to buy the pattern you can purchase it in my shop here.

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15 Comments

  • Reply Kathleen Blackmur October 29, 2020 at 11:35 AM

    Thank you soooo much for this step by step. I’ve been wearing Hudsons for years, through many body changes. Before embarking on this hack, I think I’ll revisit my sizing. If in between sizes, do you recommend sizing up or down? I’m lazy and am not too keen on grading with the hack, etc.

    Thanks,
    Kathleen

    • Reply True Bias October 29, 2020 at 12:37 PM

      it definitely depends on your fabric and preference, but I would say down. I sized down in this pair because the fabric had generous stretch and was lighter weight.

  • Reply Karen October 29, 2020 at 12:01 PM

    Any chance you’ll release a high rise Hudson pattern?

    • Reply True Bias October 29, 2020 at 12:37 PM

      Im not planning on it.

      • Reply Donna October 31, 2020 at 2:14 PM

        I do hope you reconsider. I’m guessing there’s a big number of us that want the higher rise but will choose another pattern before we would mess with the hack.

        • Reply Francesca October 31, 2020 at 3:30 PM

          Try it, I just made two pairs of Hudsons and raised the waist a generous inch all round the top with my seam allowance marker directly on to my fabric. It was super simple and worked ok, except I didn’t do it properly like this great tutorial so I had a hump at the centre back seam which I simply straightened out. Much more comfortable and cosy. And I didn’t put pockets since I was determined to squeeze two pairs out of two meters of fabric.

  • Reply Dana October 29, 2020 at 12:26 PM

    Thanks!! A high rise version is moving to the top of my sewing queue right now.

    • Reply True Bias October 29, 2020 at 12:37 PM

      yay! i hope you love them as much as I love mine.

      • Reply Francesca October 31, 2020 at 3:34 PM

        This was my first printed pattern buy from you and I adore it. I always raised the waist as I’m short waisted with a longer lower body but I did it wrong as I just added a generous inch all round the waist and then had a hump to trim at mid back seam. Super happy with this tutorial Kelly, thanks very much!

  • Reply Christine Taylor October 30, 2020 at 8:08 AM

    Thank you, I am just about to make my first pair, so very timely.

  • Reply True Bias October 30, 2020 at 10:21 AM

    yay! glad I could help.

  • Reply Stacy November 4, 2020 at 4:56 PM

    This has been the first garment I’ve sewn in 20 years. I love them and my husband was so impressed with the results he wanted a pair! I plan on making a couple more with the waist adjusted an inch as soon as I find the right fabric! Thank you for the great pattern and tutorial!!

  • Reply Nina November 11, 2020 at 8:07 AM

    Aha, I always thought my Hudsons sat so much higher at the back because I have such a flat bum! Didn’t realise they were meant to! I’m going to try this version next time – thanks for the nice clear tutorial.

  • Reply Mariana Malan November 16, 2020 at 10:00 AM

    Hola. Me encanta la modificación, son los pantalones perfectos! Tengo una duda, en el patrón de Hudson para hombres pasa lo mismo? O ya son de tiro más alto? Gracias

    • Reply Kelli November 18, 2020 at 6:40 PM

      It’s different on the mens. completely different block.

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