Welcome to day 1 of the Nova Jumpsuit. This sewalong works for all three size ranges of the pattern. Today we will be going over assembling the facing and also sewing up the pockets of views A and B (the views with the elastic waistband). We will do the pockets for views C and D tomorrow.
Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches, dots, and markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.
Keep in mind that one notch refers to a front piece, two notches refer to a back piece, and three notches refer to a side or inseam. Because the pattern pieces look so similar to one another, I find it helpful to put a piece of masking tape on the right side of all front pattern pieces for easy reference.
With right sides touching, pin Back Facing sections together at the center back. Serge or sew the center back seam with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. 3/8″ is the standard seam allowance for this pattern. If we use something different I will let you know.
Press seam allowances open or toward one side.
We use a bit of a different method for finishing the shoulder seams of this pattern. In preparation, fold down 3/8″ seam allowance along Back Facing shoulder seams, with wrong sides touching. Press.
With right sides touching, pin the assembled Back Facing to the Front Facing at the sides. Serge or sew the side seams with a stretch stitch, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Press seam allowances open or toward the Back Facing. Set aside Facing for now.
THE NEXT FEW STEPS ARE FOR VIEWS A & B ONLY. If you are sewing up views C or D you are done for today and can join us back tomorrow.
To stabilize the pocket opening edge, fuse a Pocket Interfacing piece to the wrong side of each of the four Pockets, as pictured.
With right sides touching, pin one Pocket section to each Front and Back Jumpsuit section, matching dots. Sew the pocket to the jumpsuit from top to bottom with a stretch stitch, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. (Using a 1/4″ instead of 3/8″ allows the pocket to tuck inside the seam and stay hidden.)
Press pocket away from main jumpsuit and over seam allowance.
Understitch Pocket, using a stretch stitch, by sewing 1/8″ from the seam and into the pocket, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will help the pocket to stay tucked to the inside and out of sight.
Pin one Front Jumpsuit to the coordinating Back Jumpsuit along the side seam, with pocket extended, as pictured.
Using a stretch stitch, sew the side seam from the armhole edge down to the first dot, using a 3/8″ seam allowance. Backstitch to secure. Starting at the top outside edge of the Pocket, sew around the curved side and bottom edge, pivoting at the second dot. Continue sewing the side seam down to the lower edge of the leg. Repeat for other Front and Back.
Press pockets toward the front jumpsuit, ensuring it lays flat. Pin generously to secure in place for future steps.
This is how it will look on the right side. The ruler is there to show you the pocket opening.