August 19, 2015

As I mentioned before, I will not be doing a full sewalong for the Mini Sutton Blouse.  Most of the directions are the same as the adult Sutton Blouse and you can follow along with that sewalong by clicking here.

I did, however, want to do a little tutorial for the instructions for the button band as it is an added item to the Mini version and I know that it can get a little confusing.


First, fuse your buttonband interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric, on the wearer’s left shoulder, of both the front and back. Place it 1/4” from both the neckline and armhole edges and 1/2” from the top edge. (Note that this is the shoulder that has been left longer and not the one that was trimmed.)

On this same shoulder of the back piece, fold the shoulder edge down by 1/2” (along the top edge of the interfacing) with wrong sides touching and press.

Now take this newly pressed edge and fold it back, right sides touching, at 5/8” (along the bottom edge of the interfacing). Press the edge lightly with your finger and pin at both outside edges. (Notice that in the photo below it has been flipped over so that the main area is right side up.) Repeat this process for the left shoulder on the front piece.

Unfold one side of your bias tape. Starting at the back left shoulder, pin the open edge of your bias tape to the neckline edge with right sides together. Continue until you reach the front left shoulder for view B (shown here) or center front for View A. If doing view A continue to follow the instructions in the pattern for center front and attaching the bias tape to the rest of the front neckline until you reach the front left shoulder. Trim your bias tape to be flush with the folded edge. Stitch at 1/4” seam allowance.

On all neckline edges, press the the bias tape up and away from the neckline edge and over the seam allowance.

With the right side facing up, understitch by carefully stitching 1/16” inside of the bias tape, catching the seam allowance underneath.

Using the same process that you did for the neckline, attach the bias tape to all armhole edges. Trim the ends of the bias tape flush with the armhole edges.

On the top edge of the back left shoulder, clip both corners within the seam allowance.

Flip the button band right side out, adjusting the corners so that they have a nice point. This will cause the bias tape to start flipping in towards the inside of the neckline and armhole. Press the fold of the buttonband. Pin and edgestitch along the open, folded edge from neckline edge to armhole opening, catching all layers underneath. Repeat for front left shoulder.

On the neckline edge, continue to turn the bias tape to the wrong side of the blouse while rolling the seam slightly to the inside. Using a curved surface such as a tailor’s ham, press and pin in place. Starting and ending at the button band stitching, edgestitch the open side of the bias tape to the neckline. Sew down the bias tape on both armholes in the same manner.

OK, I think that is it for the buttonband. Let me know if you have any questions.  If you want a little extra help with the hem and slits you can check out this tutorial that I did for SewMamaSew awhile back which walks you through it.

I hope this helps!

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