November 12, 2014

Welcome back for day 5 of our Sutton Blouse Sewalong.  Today we are going to sew up those sides and finish the sleeves so that it actually looks like a top and you can try it on.

Finish the edges of your side seams (all four) separately from top to bottom by either pinking or serging (I am showing serging here).

Turn the finished edge towards the wrong side of your blouse pieces by 1/4”. Pin and press.  Stitch down at 1/8″.


Right side :

Open your garment out flat and check to make sure that your sleeve is one long, straight edge (Sometimes seams get stretched slightly during sewing.). If necessary trim to make straight again.  You can see in my photo below that I have to trim a bit around the point where the front meets the yoke.

To finish your sleeve, fold the edge towards the wrong side of your blouse at 1/4”. Press.

Fold again at 1/4”. Pin. Press.

Stitch at a scant 1/4” making sure to catch the edge of the folded edge underneath.

With right sides together, pin the side seams between the armhole and the large dot.

Stitch at 3/8” seam allowance.  Backstitch securely at both ends.

Press the seam open between the armhole and the large dot.

With the seam allowances of the side seams pressed open, flip your blouse to the right side and stitch over the existing stitching at the bottom of the sleeve 1/2” in either direction, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will keep the seam allowances flat and out of sight.

Here is the finished under arm with the additional stitching.  Although I know that it’s hard to see.

That’s it for today.  Go ahead and try it on just for fun.  Tomorrow we will finish it up with the slits and hem.

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  • Reply Grace November 12, 2014 at 10:36 AM

    These are really great photos, although your pattern instructions are VERY clear all on their own. I cut out my blouse last night… with shears, ugh. I wish now I’d used my rotary, but it’s hard enough getting the slipper fabric to lie flat without a muslin/fabric sandwich, never mind moving the mat and fabric around. Anyway, I managed and I’m very much looking forward to to sewing it up.

    • Reply True Bias November 14, 2014 at 11:32 AM

      awesome! yes. that fabric can be so stinkin annoying when cutting it out. cant wait to see your final version.

  • Reply Suzanne December 20, 2014 at 11:45 AM

    I’m halfway done sewing and nervous about serging the single-layer sides of my lightweight fabric. Any tips? (I know, I know: practice on a scrap and fiddle with the tensions?)

    • Reply True Bias December 31, 2014 at 2:24 PM

      yeah, i was going to say the same thing. although ive never had a problem myself or had to change the tension.

  • Reply Aurelie May 5, 2015 at 11:23 AM

    I made mine yesterday and I have an issue with the underarm seam. My fabric is all scrunched up in the curve. What can I do to remove that?

    • Reply True Bias May 5, 2015 at 12:26 PM

      hard to say what is causing that. I am guessing it has to do with your bias binding. maybe its having a hard time making the curve because its pretty sharp. You could add a bit more ease into your bias binding. feel free to send me a pic if Im not understanding what you are saying.

  • Reply Val September 17, 2015 at 9:38 AM

    I just did the finishing on the side seams (not yet started on the sleeves). I don’t have a serger, but seems to me that doing a careful rolled hem (using sewing machine rolled hem foot) would work well for this step when the fabric is thin enough (mine is). I’m not going to go back, but thinking of the next one. Thoughts?

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