July 7, 2014

11 – Fuse your 2” x 1“ scrap of interfacing to the back side of the waistband, horizontally centered behind the buttonhole marks.

On the right side of the waistband, sew two 1/2” buttonholes on markings. Carefully open your buttonholes according to your preferred method. (I like to use two pins to protect the end points and then a seam ripper to open up the middle.)

12 – Join the two short ends of the waistband together, forming a ring, right sides together. Pin, stitch, press open.

13 – Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing each other. Pin the raw edges together.

14 – Match the right side of the waistband (side with buttonholes) to the right side of the pant at waist. Pin in place matching center backs, center fronts, and side seams to circle markings. Everything should match up really nicely, but the great thing is that even if you have a bit of extra fabric you can just stretch to fit.

Stitch together leaving a 4” opening at center back.

15 – Wrap your elastic around your lower waist (not your natural waist as theses pants sit about 3″ below your natural waist ) and find the length that feels comfortable, but is still snug. This is not the same as your waist measurement.  Because you want it to be snug it is usually about 1″ smaller than the measurement itself.  Add 1/2” for overlap and cut your elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the 4“ opening in the waistband until it forms a circle with both ends exiting the waistband.

Overlap by 1/2” and topstitch the overlapped area of the elastic until it is secure. It is very important that this stitch is VERY secure.  Stitch over it multiple times and in multiple directions.  I usually stitch a rectangle and then an x inside of that.

(This might be a good time to try your pants on to check the fit of the elastic.  Once you sew up the opening in the waistband it will be really annoying to adjust.)

16 – Put the elastic all the way inside of your waistband and stitch up the 4” opening so that the elastic is fully encased and the pants are completely attached to the waistband. Press the seam allowance down towards the pant.

Distribute the gathering on the waistband evenly. Pin waistband fabric to the elastic every few inches to keep the gathering in place. This will come in handy in the next step when you are topstitching all of those gathers.  I also like to lightly iron the waistband at this time to set all of the gathers in place before stitching them.

17 – Using a slight zigzag stitch (or stretch stitch) on your sewing machine, start at center back and topstitch around your waistband through both layers of fabric and the elastic at 5/8” from the top. You will need to pull your elastic until the waistband fabric is not gath- ered in front of your presserfoot as you sew. This will feel a little awkward at first, but just hang in there until you get the hang of it.  I find that if I hold the waistband about 3 inches behind the presserfoot with with my left hand and about 5 inches in front of the preserfoot with the right hand that it feels most comfortable and I can hold the waistband secure without putting any tension on the sewing needle.

Repeat with another row of topstitching, parallel to the first, at 1 1/2” from the top. (Tip : Mark this guideline with a piece of masking tape on your sewing machine.)

18 – Attach your drawstring cord to a safety pin and feed it through one buttonhole, into the casing created by the topstitching, and back out the other buttonhole. Shorten cord if necessary.  There are a few ways that you can secure the ends of your cord from unraveling.  You can simply stitch them, or tie a knot, or if it’s synthetic you can also melt the end.  I know that one of my testers just bought a shoelace to use and that way she didn’t have to worry about the ends which I thought was an awesome idea.

OK, that’s it for today.  We are so close to being done.  Just the cuffs tomorrow.

* The fabric and prizes for this sewalong were generously donated by Wanderlust Fabrics.

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  • Reply Angela July 7, 2014 at 9:46 AM

    I love theses pants!! Wish I had started with the sew along! Still one can always go back and reference these tutorials!

  • Reply Heather July 7, 2014 at 12:44 PM

    Your pants look great!! Loving the sew-a-long!

  • Reply Georgia July 7, 2014 at 2:46 PM

    So….I’m holding out on sewing the channels because I’ve already broken 2 of my ballpoint needles on the elastic. WHAT the heck? Any suggestions?

    • Reply True Bias July 7, 2014 at 9:51 PM

      wow, do you think that maybe you are putting a lot of tension on the needle when pulling the fabric? i don’t know what else it could be. that’s never happened to me. also, maybe a ballpoint needle made for thicker knits such as a size 14/90.

      • Reply Georgia July 8, 2014 at 8:22 AM

        I think it might be the needle thickness. Super strange!

        • Reply True Bias July 8, 2014 at 9:15 AM

          seriously. let me know if the thicker needle helps. im super curious now.

  • Reply Lisa December 18, 2014 at 5:05 PM

    What kind of fabric are you using for the waistband and the ankle cuffs? Do you talk about that somewhere – maybe I missed it? I hope to sew some of these over Christmas!

  • Reply Nantucket by Seamwork (my leftovers’ short) | Valeria Speck July 9, 2016 at 2:07 AM

    […] to sew it with zig-zag. The only clear tutorial on elasticated waist which I found online is for Hudson pants (the sew-along), but I thought that the elastic fabric is the cause of the zig-zag stitch. but nope…. […]

  • Reply My Leftovers Shorts | ValeriaSpeck November 12, 2016 at 6:30 AM

    […] to sew it with zig-zag. The only clear tutorial on elasticated waist which I found online is for Hudson pants (the sew-along), but I thought that the elastic fabric is the cause of the zig-zag stitch. but nope…. […]

  • Reply Veronica February 4, 2017 at 3:04 PM

    I seem to be missing the waist elastic length chart on the pattern. Can someone point me in the correct direction? Thanks Guys!!

  • Reply Weekend realness: Anima pants – Zoe Livana Handmade December 2, 2018 at 12:33 PM

    […] I didn’t follow the directions, as I have made these pants many times. I kind of wish I had consulted the directions quickly before I started, though, because I forgot to interface the pockets. So they may stretch out over time, especially since I always have my phone in them. I didn’t attach the waistband as is recommended in the instructions. I have made the mini Hudson Pant by True Bias, which is a very similar pant pattern, and I much prefer the waistband construction, so I used that method instead. The Anima pant instructions say that you should attach one side of the waistband to the pants, then attach one side of the elastic to the waistband, then fold it over and topstitch it. I was never able to get even gathers using this method. The Hudson pant, on the other hand, has you fold the waistband in half, attach it to the pants, while leaving a hole at the back to feed your elastic through. If that makes no sense, check out the instructions on the Hudson pant sew along page, here. […]

  • Reply Lisa December 29, 2019 at 8:49 AM

    Hi is it possible to get the photos updated to this sew along? They say unavailable.

  • Reply Gussie October 31, 2020 at 2:42 PM

    Hi, I’m confused how the button hole marking on my pattern piece is right near the edge of the waistband, but on your photos (and my instructions) it looks like the markings are closer to the center of the waistband. There’s also only one marking for each size on the pattern piece, not two. Please help me, I’m feeling a bit dense ! May just try to do grommets instead

    • Reply Jessica Lauer November 9, 2020 at 9:29 AM

      Hi Gussie, I’m cutting my pieces for Hudson today and saw your question earlier. The waistband piece is to be cut on the fold, so the one buttonhole that you’re seeing will replicate on the other side and the fold line for cutting will be the front center (there’s a small notation on the piece). I believe that the dots halfway down the piece will be the side alignments (and again, replicate it on the other folded side of your cut piece. The waistband seems large now, but the elastic will rectify that!

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