Browsing Category




April 15, 2016

Today is the last day of the Colfax Sewalong. It’s going to be a quick finish. Just the hem facing left. Views A and B finish in different ways so make sure that you are following the right instructions.

Step 25 – With right sides together, line up the two short edges of the front hem facing with the corresponding edges of the back hem facing, matching notches. Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Press seams open.

Step 26 – Turn down the unnotched edge of the hem allowance by 1/4” towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press.


Step 27 – With right sides together, pin the notched edge of the hem allowance to the bottom of the dress, matching notches.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 28 – Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn your dress inside out and press the hem facing up towards the inside of the dress (the seam allowance will be sandwiched inbetween). The wrong side of your dress will be facing the wrong side of your hem facing. Pin generously around the folded edge of the hem facing.

Step 29 – Finish your hem by edgestitching along the top folded edge of the hem facing. Give the whole dress a Final press.

Congrats! View A is finished.


Step 30 – Turn your dress inside out. With the right side of the hem facing touching the wrong side of your dress, pin the bottom edge of the hem facing to the bottom of the dress, matching notches.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Step 31 – Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Turn your dress right side out and press the hem facing up towards the right side of your dress. Pin generously around the folded edge of the hem facing. Make sure that your pockets are lying at and still pinned.

Step 32 – Finish your hem by edgestitching along the top folded edge of the hem facing. Catch the bottom edge of your pocket seam allowances within the stitchline by about 1/8″. This will help support the weight of the pocket and keep it in place.

Here is what the inside of the dress should look like with the pocket in the stitchline.

Give the whole dress a final press.

Congrats! View B is finished.

I will be sure to take some pictures in both of these dresses and post them next week sometime. Thank you so much for following along. I can’t wait to see all of your versions. Be sure to enter the Colfax Dress Contest by either posting your dress on instagram with the hashtag #colfaxdresscontest or sending me an email with the photo. The last day to enter the contest is Thursday April 28th. The prizes are gift certificates to My Fabric Designs. Click here for more details.

You can find the Colfax Dress pdf pattern here. Use the code COLFAXCONTEST for a discount for the rest of April. You can find the fabrics used for the sewalong here, here and here. Use the code TRUEBFS for free shipping with My Fabric Designs for the remainder of the contest.



April 12, 2016

Welcome back for day 2 of the Colfax Sewalong. Today we will be going over a few common fit adjustments that you may want to make, as well as transferring all markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric and cutting everything out. By the end of today we should be ready for sewing up our dress tomorrow. Make sure your fabric is washed, dried, and ironed so it’s ready to go. I will be making two dresses with the sewalong (one for View A and one for View B). The fabrics that I am using for the dresses were designed by me and made through My Fabric Designs.

For View A I am using this pastel geometric print that I had made up in silk crinkle linen. I love the texture of the fabric and am really excited to see how it comes together. I think this dress will end up looking a little more expensive with the one fabric and silk component.

For View B I am using two coordinating blue / black graffiti type prints that I had made up in the faux linen slub. The fabric on the top will be the main fabric and the bottom one will be the contrast. I like how the two fabrics are different, but not complete opposites. I am looking at this dress being more of an everyday with sandals type of garment, but we will see.

If you are sewing up View B with the pockets and your fabric is on the stiff or heavy side like mine, you may want to consider using a lighter weight fabric for your pocket pieces. I am going to use some cotton lawn from my stash. Otherwise the pockets can get a little heavy and cause some extra bulk in the hip section. This is totally up to you, it’s just a little tip. It’s also just a good way to save a bit of your nice fabric since the pockets are not visible.



I think that the most common adjustment that most of you will want to make is to lengthen or shorten your dress. The pattern is drafted for someone who is 5’5″ tall and is designed to hit a couple of inches above the knee. One thing to think about is that not all of your height resides in the area covered by the dress. So for instance, I am 5’3″ which is a difference of 2″ from the model. I figure that the dress covers about half of my body, so I will shorten the pattern by 1″ total (not 2 inches like you might first think). You may be tempted to just add length to the bottom of the dress. Be aware that this will affect the fit and intended width of the dress so I recommend lengthening or shortening the dress on the indicated marking on the pattern. Also be aware that this will cause your pocket openings to move up or  down. This may be accurate if you are long or short torsoed, but you may want to adjust where those markings are if you are making View B and adjusting more than an inch or two. To begin, cut along the horizontal lengthen / shorten line on your pattern piece.

To lengthen, get another piece of paper and draw two parallel lines the width that you want to lengthen your pattern (I am doing 1″ here). Tape your pattern pieces to the paper, on either side of the lines you just drew. Make sure that the CF / CB fold line stays lined up on the fold side.

Use a straight edge to join the bottom and top sections on the side seam, creating a new, smooth line to connect them.

To Shorten, draw a horizontal line below the lengthen / shorten line on the bottom piece. It should be the same distance from the lengthen / shorten line as you want to shorten the dress (I am doing 1″ here).

Take your top section and tape the bottom edge on top of the bottom section so that it lines up with the line you just drew. Make sure you keep the CB / CF edge lined up.

Using a straight edge, redraw and trim the portion of the side seam that is no longer smooth because of the adjustment.

That’s it. Super simple. Be sure to make the same adjustment on the front dress as you do on the back dress pattern pieces.



The Colfax dress is drafted for a C cup. My other patterns have been much more loose and forgiving when it comes to fit. Because the Colfax is more fitted in the bust area, I highly recommend doing an FBA if you wear a D cup or larger. Otherwise your dress will not only hike up in the front, but it will also pitch away from your body in the front, creating an unflattering silhouette. If you take your high bust measurement (right under your armpits and above the natural curve of your bust) and your full bust measurement (across the fullest part of your bust), the difference should be between 2″ and  3″ for a C cup. If the difference is less than that then you may want to consider a small bust adjustment (SBA). I won’t be covering that in this sewalong because I have found this to be less of a pressing problem. My testers with smaller chests still had a pretty good fit with the dress sewn up as is. Also, there is always the option of wearing a more supportive bra to make up some of the difference. If the difference between your high and full bust adjustments is more than 3 inches, you are going to have more visible and unflattering fit issues. So, we will focus on that one today.

Imaginary measurements for our purposes today- High bust – 33″, Full Bust 37″ (difference of 4″)

To figure out what size you should cut for your pattern, take your high bust adjustment and add 3 inches to it (pretending you have a C cup). This would make my imaginary bust measurement of 36″ which puts me in the size 8 and needing an extra inch of bust room across the front for a good fit.

Let’s make a few markings on our front dress pattern to get started.

First, find your bust apex. To do this draw a line through the middle of your dart, starting at the side seam, and continue out 1 1/2″ past the dart point (We will call this line A). This is your apex. Mark with a dot (marked B).

Now, draw another line from the armhole (about half way through) to your apex (this line is marked C), and then down to the bottom of your dress, staying parallel to the grainline ( mark it as D).

Lastly, darken the lengthen / shorten line between the CF fold and line D (we will call it E).

Starting at the bottom of your dress, cut line D up to the apex (B), pivot and continue cutting to the armhole along line C, keeping a bit connected at the armhole to serve as a hinge.

Cut line E.

Take another large piece of paper and draw one long vertical line. Draw another line, parallel to the first, and draw it half of the distance your want to add to your bust measurement. So for instance, I need to add one whole inch to the front of my bodice at the bust. Since I am working with a pattern piece that is cut on the fold, I only need to add 1/2″ to the pattern piece.

Tape the right side of line D (top section) along the right line on the piece of paper.

Cut line A on your pattern piece, keeping a small piece connected at the apex (B) to act as a hinge. Line the apex (B) and the left side of line D along the second line and tape. There should now be a 1/2″ (or whatever your measurement is) gap between the two sides of line D.

Tape the bottom piece of Line E so that it lines up with the lengthen / shorten line on the left section of the pattern. For me there is only an 1/8″ gap, but for a larger FBA it would be much more noticeable.

Mark a small marking in the middle of your dart legs at the side seam.

Draw a line between this marking and your apex. Mark your new dart point 1 1/2″ in from the apex. Draw your new dart legs out from this point to side seam dart leg points.

Fold your new dart up, with the excess being folded down towards the bottom of the dress. You will notice that the sideseam is no longer straight. You will want to straighten this out with a ruler.

Trim along the new side seam line and open your dart flat.

The last thing to do is adjust the hem. The bottom hem line may need to be smoothed out and you will need to adjust the width and shape of the front hem facing to match the dress front.



If you made a lot of adjustments, it’s always good to sew up a muslin before cutting into your nice fabric. Once you feel confident about the fit, lay your pattern pieces out on your fabric according to the layouts on your instructions. Cut all of your pieces out of your fabric and cut the interfacing yoke piece out of lightweight fusible interfacing. Now it’s time to mark your pieces. There are lots of ways to do this, but I will show you a few of the ways I use.


Because the seam allowance on the Colfax Dress is 1/2″, there is plenty of room to make small clips where needed for markings. It’s amazing how fast and effective a simple little clip can be. The best place to do this is every time that you see a triangle marking within the seam allowances of the dress.


Another great way to transfer a marking is with a marking tool such as a chacco pen. Believe me, if you don’t have one of these, invest in one. They are the best. It leaves a small line of chalk dust where ever you roll it and the chalk dust is easy to get rid of once you don’t want it to be visible anymore. This is especially nice when you need to transfer a line such as the cutting line on the yoke and the legs of the darts.  A disappearing ink pen is also a good solution in these instances.


One last way that I often mark things is with a tailor’s tack. It’s especially useful when the marking is in the center of the pattern piece and in a very visible area. The tailor’s tack won’t run you the risk of leaving a mark behind and is very accurate. To make a tailor’s tack, thread a sewing needle with a long piece of thread. Sew it through your desired spot a few times leaving long (about 2-3″) loops between each stitch.

Cut each loop so you are left with a few long threads at each marking.

If your fabric is doubled up you will want to carefully pull them apart and snip between the layers so there are tacks on both sides.

Now that all of our pattern pieces are adjusted, cut out, and marked we can start sewing tomorrow. I know that today was a bit of a long post, but doing all of the prep work will pay off when we are sewing the next few days.

You can purchase the Colfax dress if you want to sew along here. Also, don’t forget to enter the Colfax Dress Sewalong with prizes from My Fabric Designs. More details about that here.



January 13, 2016


It’s been really quiet around here for the last month or so and I figured it was probably time I tell you all why. My family and I moved from New York City to Denver, Colorado at the first of the year. It’s something that we have been talking about doing for awhile, but once it happened it happened fast and I think that I am still recovering from the shock of it all. I am not sure if I have ever felt so at home as I did in NYC and I am still mourning the loss of my life there. That being said, Denver is already starting to grow on me. Not only are we much closer to family, but my children love the access to a backyard and the outdoors. Life really is just so much easier here.


We have only been here about a week so I havn’t had a chance to explore much of what the city has to offer yet, but I would love your suggestions. I am planning a trip to Fancy Tiger Crafts soon, but if you know of any other places that I must explore, whether sewing related or not, please let me know!


Men’s Hudson Pant Inspiration and Fabric

November 12, 2015

I am so glad that you all seem to be as excited about the Men’s Hudson Pants as I am. The phrase I keep seeing around the web is something to the effect of “I’ve never sewn for my husband/boyfriend, but this seems like an easy place to start.” I am so glad that this pattern has you all excited about sewing things for the men in your life. And, if you are a man who is reading this, (sorry that you are often overlooked in our community) then I am glad that I can add another men’s sewing pattern into the mix as I think we can use more.

Today I am going to show a few ready-to-wear pants that have a similar look to the Men’s Hudson Pants. Whether the intention is to wear these around the house for lounging, or dress them up for around town, I hope that this post will help you decide on the look you want to sew up and how to style them.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6


I have some sources and ideas for fabrics below. You really do want something on the medium to heavy weight side for these if they are going to be worn out of the house, so I recommend fabrics such as french terry, ponte and sweatshirt knit. Another thing to keep in mind is that fabrics that contain even a small percentage of lycra or spandex are going to have better recovery and help avoid bagging out in the knees and backside. This may not be as big of a deal with lounging pants, but just keep the fabric content in mind when choosing what to use.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 89 | 10 | 11 | 12

I am always on the lookout for great online sources for “grownup” knits, so if you know of a place that I have overlooked please leave a comment.



November 10, 2015

I am very excited to release a Men’s version of the Hudson pant today. Since releasing the women’s and also the children’s versions, I have had a lot of requests for a similar pattern for men.

Like the other versions, the Men’s Hudson Pant has an elastic / drawstring waist and front pockets. There is a little extra room around the hips and crotch, tapering down to a skinnier leg at the ankle. I kept the construction of this pattern almost exactly like the others, keeping notches, and details in the same place. If you have already made a pair for yourself or a child, then these will be an even easier sew for you.

The sizing for this pant is waist sizes 28 through 42. I highly recommend using actual measurements and not ready-to-wear sizing to choose what size to cut. Just like in women’s clothing, ready-to-wear sizing is often skewed and does not reflect actual waist measurements.

The recommended fabric for this pattern is medium to heavy weight knits such as french terry, ponte, and sweatshirt knit with a suggested stretch of 40% – 75%. The navy sweatshirt knit above was purchased at Metro in NYC and the dark grey french terry was bought on a shopping trip in Montreal with Closet Case Files. I have found that for men you really do want to avoid lighter weight knits such as interlock as they tend to look a little more feminine.

I will not be doing a sewalong for the Men’s Hudson Pants as they are so similar to the other versions, but I will be back with some fabric and ready-to-wear inspiration in a couple of days. I hope that you are as excited about this pattern as I am. Please let me know if you have any questions. If you would like to purchase the pattern you can do so here. Use the code LAUNCHWEEK for 20% off today through this Sunday at Midnight EST.