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INTRODUCING THE CALVIN WRAP TOP & DRESS PATTERN

August 19, 2019

I am so excited to show you the newest True Bias pattern, the Calvin Wrap Dress & Top. The Calvin comes in two views. View A is a top hitting a couple of inches below the natural waist and it pairs wonderfully with high waisted pants such as the Landers. View B is a straight dress ending around mid calf.

Both views have exposed bias binding that finishes the wrap edges, creates the shoulder straps, and extends into the ties. You can either use the same fabric as your main garment for a streamlined look, or use a contrasting fabric for your binding for some added interest. This is a great way to use up stash fabric when you only have a small about of yardage to work with.

It’s a simple pattern with some really fun elements including instructions for a threadloop chain to hold your waist ties in place and ring and sliders used on the straps for easy fitting.

The Calvin works great for a lot of different types of fabric. We are offering a small amount of kits for the Calvin in overstock rayon crepe which is a wonderful lightweight fabric for an elevated look. If you want something more casual, I recommend linen or cottons. The Calvin does not require fabric with drape so a simple cotton or cotton blend works wonderful and is a more beginner friendly option.

I will have a full sewalong including fabric recommendations and some fun hacks for the Calvin starting the first week of September. In the meantime, you can purchase your pattern here in either a PDF or paper format. The pdf pattern is on sale (no code necessary) for the next week, ending on August 27th. If you would like to purchase a kit you can also do that through my shop here.

MAKES SEWING

FRISCO JUMPSUIT IN RAYON TWILL

August 15, 2019

I sewed up the new Frisco Jumpsuit pattern from Threadbear Garments this week and I love it. It’s such an easy to wear style that can be dressed up or down. I wore it with heels here, but expect to throw it on with flat sandals most of the time for a put together every day casual look.

I measured in as a size 6 C cup according to Leslie’s size chart so that is what I cut out and sewed. I would say that was very accurate. I am only 5’3″ and the pattern is drafted for someone who is 5’7″ so I obviously had to make a lot of changes to the length of the pattern. Here are the changes I made in length :

  • 1.5″ from the straps
  • 0.5″ from the front bodice
  • 3/4″ from the side of bodice
  • 1″ from the back of the bodice
  • 1.5″ from the rise of the pant
  • no changes to leg length but I did a 3″ hem

The other change I made was to eliminate the front D ring tie from the style of the pattern. It’s an easy change if you want to do the same thing. Leslie already gives you a front and back waistband lining pattern pieces. So you just cut two of each of those on the fold instead of just the lining. Use one of each as the lining and one of each as the main waistband piece. Then you sew it up like a normal elastic waistband where you leave and opening to insert the elastic at the end. You will also need to cut an elastic for the waist that wraps around your entire waist instead of just the back as the original pattern has you do.

That’s it! It was a really fun sew. I made all of changes that I mentioned to my actual pattern pieces so I can easily recreate this in a linen next summer. I expect this to get a ton of wear. You can find the Frisco pattern on Threadbear Garments site here.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

SHELBY BLOUSE HACK

August 7, 2019

I am back today with another pretty simple hack for the Shelby pattern. This time I wanted to try out a Shelby blouse. This is a look I have been seeing a lot in ready to wear and thought it would be the perfect match for the Shelby pattern.

To create this hack I only had to make a few simple changes. The first thing that I changed was to lengthen the ties by about 10 inches each so that I could cross them in the back and wrap them around to the front for a bow. I thought it would be a fun was to add a bit more waist definition to the blouse. It almost gives it a peplum look. It would work fine without the wrap around too, I just wanted to give it a try.

The next change I made was obviously to shorten the pattern significantly. To accomplish this I measured down from the lengthen / shorten line by about 6 inches on each seamline. This gives you a bit of a cropped look so if you want an longer blouse just add more inches.

Then I made a line about an inch long that is perpendicular to each side.

Next create a curved cut line to join the two sides.

Make sure you shorten all front and back pieces in the same manner as well as the front facing.

The last thing that I changed was the button placement. I decided this at the very end once it was hemmed and I could visually figure out what would look balanced. I ended up going with 5 buttons / buttonholes that are a bit closer together than the dress or romper simply because it was my personal preference.

And that is it. I sewed up the rest according to the directions for the Shelby dress and it all came together quite smoothly. I love the way it turned out and I think it will look great with high waisted jeans or Landers. You can find the Shelby pattern in my shop here is you would like to give it a try.

MAKES SEWING

ZADIE JUMPSUITS

June 6, 2019

Like just about everyone else in the sewing community, I fell hard for the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I’ve made three in all and am trying to not give in to making a fourth. It’s that good.

I think the thing I like the most about the Zadie Jumpsuit is how easy it is to wear. I find that it truly is one of those items that you can dress up or down. I keep grabbing them every time I travel along with flats for daytime and wedges / statement jewelry for going out at night.

This first version is sewn up in a black cupro rayon / linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics. I am loving cupro right now because it has a nice expensive sheen to it, but with the ease of care and simple sewing of a linen.

I did have to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern. I sized down one whole size and still ended up taking some width out of the hips. I also took an inch out of the bodice length, and inch out of the rise and and inch out of the pant length. I am 5’3″ so that is not surprising.

This second version is sewn up in some rayon crepe gifted to me from The Fabric Store. It has a deconstructed dot pattern that feels a little hand drawn which I love.

Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with right now. It has a great weight to it which adds a bit of drama, but it is still easy to sew and take care of. They have a lot great rayon crepes right which are worth checking out.

For the shorts version all I did was was shorten the pattern to about the knee, and then once I was finished sewing the rest of the pattern I tried it on. Then I marked where I wanted it hemmed all the way around the leg and was able to shorten it evenly that way.

I love the way that my Zadies turned out and love wearing them. You can find the pattern at Paper Theory if you want to sew one up for yourself.

MAKES SEWALONG SEWING

FINISHED SHELBYS FROM SEWALONG

June 4, 2019

I hope you all found the Shelby Sewalong from last week helpful. I was able to find some time to get those two Shelbys photographed and wanted to show them to you.

This first Shelby is View A with the traditional longer sleeve. I used some beautiful rayon crepe from the Sewing Studio in Oregon.

I love the burnt orange color and large scale floral design.

The second Shelby is View C, the short romper, with the shorter cap sleeve.

I sewed this version up in a small daisy print that I bought from Blackbird Fabrics.

I’ve surprised myself with how much I am gravitating towards ditsy flower prints for the Shelby. The 90s flare of the design really lends itself to these types of fabric in my opinion.

That’s it. Super simple post. If you want to purchase the Shelby Dress and Romper pattern for yourself you can do so here.